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Framing interior doorways

pm | Posted in General Discussion on December 13, 2005 04:45am

I need to frame two new doorways in an interior, non-load bearing wall. There is a doorway in this wall already, and the header is just made up of three 2x4s nailed into studs. There are no jack studs supporting the header, and no cripples above to keep the 16 inch spacing.

The framing is 35 years old, and I don’t know whether this is still the way to do it. I have a framing book, but it only covers exterior framing.

Can someone either tell me what I need to do to frame these doorways, or point me to a book on how to do interior framing that is code compliant?

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  1. slykarma | Dec 13, 2005 04:53pm | #1

    All that is needed is support for the door jambs and backing for casing. Run a continuous 2x4 up each side of the opening all the way to the top plate. Span the gap between them above the opening; a single 2x4 is adequate. No header is required if this is a non load bearing wall, and building codes are unlikely to have much to say on the topic either.

    Lignum est bonum.
  2. JTC1 | Dec 13, 2005 04:56pm | #2

    I would reframe to the needed rough opening with cripples above and jack studs.

    There is no need for a big solid header in an interior, non-LB situation.  Many are framed with a single 2x4 laid flat as a header.

    I typically use jacks, 2x4 flat header and a cripple directly above the header ( like a continuation of each jack), intermediate cripples to maintain 16" spacing.  If the opening is over 3' wide, I start beefing up that header a bit.

    Jim

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

     

     

    1. Johnny1985489 | Dec 13, 2005 05:39pm | #3

      If you are doing this with a permit talk to your inspector. Everybody told me that headers were not needed on interior non-bearing walls and I beleive them, but our inspector required 2x6 headers. Hes the one you have to passify so just a word of caution.

      1. JTC1 | Dec 13, 2005 05:51pm | #4

        Understood fully.

        As of last Monday in New Castle Co., DE, my technique as described was fine with our inspector.  The sticker is on the window!

        Jim

        Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

      2. DougU | Dec 14, 2005 01:43am | #5

        Johnny, remember, your inspector dont like you because your building your own house!  :)

        Doug

        1. Johnny1985489 | Dec 14, 2005 04:41am | #6

          Haha good point. I actually have worse things to say about inspectors than anyone else but I'll shut up since some of you may be in the field. :)

          1. pm | Dec 14, 2005 11:51pm | #10

            I'm sorry you're having problems with inspectors. I'm also the HO, and so far I have nothing but nice things to say about the inspectors here. I live in a city where they have a reputation for being sticklers, but every one of them has been willing to go out of their way to make sure I understand what I need to do and answer my questions.

            For example, when an inspector was out to check my housewrap, he went through the framing I'd done so far and pointed out a couple of things that might be a problem and told me how I could fix them (much more easily than I expected). He suggested some things to keep in mind on the framing I still had to do and gave me some very good ideas, and he also told things to watch out for when someone comes in to do my plumbing and HVAC so I don't end up with framing problems.

            I've tried to do my own research as much as possible, but I've still called them a few times with questions about how to stay code-compliant. I keep expecting that they're going to get grumpy with me because I'm taking up their time, but they've been great, and one even thanked me for calling and told me how much they appreciate it when homeowners work to make sure they're doing their projects correctly.

            Sorry for the aside, but I know how lucky I am on this!

  3. IdahoDon | Dec 14, 2005 04:45am | #7

    I've been most comfortable framing interior openings with dual full length studs on both sides of the doorway.  This allows the crowns of the studs to be placed in opposite directions, providing a more uniform plane for the trim when bridging between the finished wall and door jamb.

    Also, including a doubled 2x above the door provides for a wider nailing area.  Again, improving the odds that you'll have something to nail the outside of the casing to.

    Along the same lines, if you have wide casing and tall base, a single king stud provides very little for the top edge of the base to be nailed to.

    For walls with three plates we'll frame the interior walls with two plates at the bottom and a single at top, connecting the intersections with metal connection plates.  This gives 3" of continuous nailing surface for base. 

    As one of the main trim guys who also gets to frame, it's nice when all the details attended to during framing make life easier during trim out.

    Best of luck,

    Don

  4. User avater
    dieselpig | Dec 14, 2005 06:10am | #8

    Something like the doorway in the background of this picture is usually all you need.  But it is always a good idea to check with you local building dept to make sure they're cool with it. 

    View Image

  5. User avater
    JDRHI | Dec 14, 2005 07:19am | #9

    They say a picture is worth a thousand words. So long as you`re certain the wall is not load bareing.

     

    J. D. Reynolds

    Home Improvements

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