My porch roof is sagging badly. It’s dipped on one side and bowed in the middle. Considering it’s a hundred years old I’d say it’s served well but is ready for replacement. I am going down to apply for a permit but I need to figure out first how to frame it before I run it past the inspectors.
First I am going to loose the peak. I was thinking of 2×6 18 inch OC with 5/8 ply for the roof. For the inner ceiling 2×6 18 inch OC with ½ ply. For the beams the roof sits on, 2×10’s doubled. I am not sure what fasteners to use to attach the roof plate to the house. The brick is rather old and crumbling in some places hence the stone refinishing job – which will be replaced with stucco in the future (doesn’t look so bad in reality as it does in pictures). Going to loose the metal posts and replace with 2×6’s.
This of course is just my uniformed guess on how one would frame this roof so I would like to hear how you experts would do it.
Replies
Senna,
If you want good answers, you should answer these questions to elaborate on your conditions a little.
1. where are you located (will there be snow load / drifting)
2. How deep is the porch? What's the distance from the beam to the wall of the house
3. What is the roof slope going to be?
4. What will the roofing material be?
5. What will the distance between the new support columns be?
Off the top of my head, I think you are undersising the structure a little (maybe a lot). Also, is the roof sagging, or are your footings sinking (hard to tell from the pic.)
1. I am in Toronto so there will be snow loads but I have noticed many aluminum porch roofs that don't look like they could hold up too much.
2. About 7 feet.
3. 3/7
4. Cedar shakes
5. 16 feet
Roof sagging in the middle. One side is lower than the other but that may have been just poor workmanship.
Why lose the "peak" (dormer)? Looks like it gives the roof some character. After reframing, make it a real dormer, put a window in it and you can catch more sunlight on the porch.
Anyway, as you've already been asked, what are the dimensions and do you know what your local code requires you to use for snow load.
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
Just an idea if the porch roof looks good and the only structural problem is the sagging in center and dipping on one end.
-Determine the end dipping problem (footing,settling, erosion.) if solid then use some 1/2 steel plate on either the top or bottom of the post to level
-Size a steel narrow top flange I beam or a flat plate the full length of the span.
-Jack up the center of span ( use a 4x4 or 4x6 4' long the spread the point load) carefully,
till it close to or near level. ( may not want to because the wood is settled to its present shape)(If you have time to do it, give the a crank or so every morning for a couple of days till it looks about level)
-Though bolt the plate on the inside of the double 2x10 beam.
-replace trim to hide bolts and steel( If you trim it straight, it will look straight. minor sagging appearance of roofing will be negated by the straight trim)
Reason: Once you tear that thing apart considering it's 100yrs old you may end up with other probs to deal with, waterproofing, matching existing trim ,roofing, unanticipated costs that will occur.
- This may be easier, less invasive, fewer problems and quicker.
Good luck : )
Edited 5/5/2006 11:11 pm by LEMONJELLO
That is a good idea but the problem appears to be the peak that may have been added later ( we think). It has sagged the entire roof structure and not just the front beam. I am pretty sure we will have to replace the whole thing.
No offense Senna, but I'd consider calling in someone who knows what they're looking at before you go and rebuild that whole roof, possibly unneccesarily, and possibly with the same end result.
Just looking at that picture, I can't see any way that that little gable could be enough of a load to cause that whole roof to sag like that, unless that beam was grossly undersized to begin with. And I mean grossly undersized..... like woulda failed anyway. Unless that gable was framed out of concrete, there's just no way.
It really appears as though you could have footing/foundation problems. At least from here anyway. And if not that, possible just an undersized beam, where the prescription is just a beefier beam and not a whole new roof. No matter what though.... you really want to be 100% sure that you're addressing the actual problem with your repair, and not just one of the symptoms.
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Edited 5/6/2006 1:15 pm ET by dieselpig
It's possible but not too likely, then again, I'm looking at a 2"x2" picture. I was mistaken when I read your post... I was under the impression that "existing double 2x10 beam across the front" but...thats what you want to put in! Correct? Taking a look at the beam across the the front, Double2x6 is my guess??? Old growth double 2x6 would have been plenty strong at the time. What's the deflection?
Span across the front from post to post?Get an opinon from a contractor locally. Could save you a lot of time and headache before trying to get a permit.It looks nice overall, I kinda like the peak, gives it character.
Maybe it was a typo, but are you really going to replace the metal corner posts with 2x6's? Are you using them to make a boxed column, or did you mean to say 6x6?And what's up with 18" OC? I've heard of 19.2" but never 18". How is that going to work out?-Rich
strictly from esthetics..
i'd redesign it to be a hip roof... the peak is ca-ca.. but the gables are awkward
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with the right detailing and columns , this could be very attractive
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 5/6/2006 10:54 pm ET by MikeSmith
I don't know what I was thinking - yes I meant to say 6x6 and 16 OC.