FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Framing question

sawhorseconst | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 27, 2009 01:48am

I have a question regarding the RO for a double 2-6 interior door (5-0 total). Would you change the width of your opening to accomodate for a T astrical making the RO larger or is a door a door and the thickness of the T astrical is accomodated for by ripping a little from each side of the door?

 

Thanks,

 

Scott

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. frammer52 | Mar 27, 2009 02:10am | #1

    T astrical ??????????????

    1. sawhorseconst | Mar 27, 2009 02:20am | #2

      T astrigal (def:) A strip of wood in the shape of a "T" that goes between two operable doors. It blockes the crack between the doors providing privacy.

  2. frammer52 | Mar 27, 2009 02:32am | #3

    If you have room, increase the RO.  Why complicate the finish carpenters job? 

    I learn something new every day!

  3. mike_maines | Mar 27, 2009 02:42am | #4

    Usually you just rip the center stiles down to accept the astrigal.  If you ripped all the stiles so they matched on the astrigal side, they wouldn't match on the other side.

    Is this for an interior or exterior door?  For interior double doors I like to rabbet both doors--cleaner than an astrigal, but it limits your hardware choices.

    1. sawhorseconst | Mar 27, 2009 02:57am | #5

      It really comes down to a battle. The doors are interior and the opening has been framed for months. The doors came from a local millwork shop and are larger than will fit in the 62" RO. I say that it is lazyness on their part because they don't want to take the time to rip down the doors and they should rehang the doors to the proper size. They say that all doors with a T astrigal should be framed one inch larger to accomodate it. I, in my 29 years on construction have never framed a RO differently for a door with or without a T astrigal. Am I behind the times?

      1. User avater
        EricPaulson | Mar 27, 2009 03:05am | #6

        I have a question regarding the RO for a double 2-6 interior door (5-0 total).

        You should have asked that question when you ordered the door. I always have the RO included somewhere in the order specs.

        I'd rather they get their thumb smashed than mine. You made an intelligent assumtion based on your experience. The facts got in the way. 

        1. sawhorseconst | Mar 27, 2009 03:18am | #7

          In hindsite that would have been the best thing to do. But my point is, why should I even have to ask such a question. A RO for a 5-0 door (T astrigal or not) has always been 62", why are we changing it now?

          1. Westcoast | Mar 27, 2009 04:00am | #15

            Maybe where you live but i have always had a 62" R/O with no astragal and 63" R/O with an astragal.
            And it has been that way for the last 24 years i have been building, i think you should call your supplier and find out.

          2. davidmeiland | Mar 27, 2009 06:52am | #17

            Same here. Double doors, RO = doors + 3", so a pair of 2/6 doors will rough in at 63".

            What I often do when in doubt is to frame the opening 1-1/2" wider than the worst case I can think of. Then, I screw a piece of 1x to each trimmer, narrowing the opening by 1-1/2". Then add the sheathing and trim to the 1x. That way, if there's a serious cluster and the door is even bigger than feared, there is an easy way to gain width, just remove one or both pieces of 1x and trim the plywood back accordingly.

          3. Westcoast | Mar 27, 2009 07:14am | #20

            Nice detail, i will start doing that too. This last summer i was away for three hours one day. When the 3 sets of double french doors came a month or so later guess what??? They were framed at 74"!!!
            Called the engineer and he said no!! Spent the next day re-framing, not fun! Of course they were microlam headers too so not a profitable day!

          4. davidmeiland | Mar 27, 2009 05:38pm | #21

            I've gotten corked a couple of times. Received a pair of 3/6 x 7/0 doors in a jamb made of 8/4 solid VG fir. The OD of the jamb was 87-1/2" because of the added jamb thickness and the astragal. Sometimes you can get the info up front from the maker or the vendor, but I usually don't bother anymore, I just give myself padding and use it if I need it.

          5. Westcoast | Mar 27, 2009 06:01pm | #22

            Yeah my problem was a framer working for me who has hearing problems! Or memory problems, i'm still can't decide which it was!

          6. davidmeiland | Mar 27, 2009 06:46pm | #23

            Problem I've had is that someone will look me in the eye and say "that unit needs a 86" RO" and then a month later it's delivered and it's bigger. Had the same problem with door jamb heights also, using various combinations of sills and shoes on exterior doors. I generally go nominal door height +4" now, assuming finish floor will be 3/4". Oh, and don't ask my how many times I've been lied to about floor thickness.

          7. AitchKay | Mar 27, 2009 04:32am | #16

            Often, these days, double doors are not built with astragals (this is the correct spelling of the word, BTW). But the classic way to hang double doors was with one dominant, operable door, and one passive, secondary door, equipped with an astragal and both top and bottom slide bolts, these bolts being mortised into the astragal.Most traffic would use the dominant, active door, but, to open the space up for parties, moving, etc, the secondary door could be swung wide, as well, after releasing the top and bottom bolts.These days, you often see daylight between two doors of equal ranking -- either door can be opened first, because both are held shut by a single ball catch at the top of each door.Your options are to: 1) go with this modern downgrade, 2) reframe the opening to do it right, or,3 take a little bit off of each of the four door edges that you've got. This last would definitely be my first choice in your situation, since total astragal thickness is typically no more than 5/8", or a bit less than a fat 1/16" per edge.These things happen, and as you move on in the trades, it's mind-blowing how many details/ options you have to be able to file away. Be thankful that this problem is so easy to solve!AitchKay

      2. back2work | Mar 27, 2009 03:24am | #8

        I always frame french doors 1" wider on the rough opening. You just do the math and add it up, plus your shimming room. Sometimes 1" seems a bit big though, when you're dealing with brickmould. I usually leave the plywood 1" long on one side, just in caseI don't see a big deal with ripping them down, though. Except you might loose some space for the lockset. Seems the steel 2-6 doors have a smaller stile sometimes.(Probably insignificant.)On the other hand, if they didn't know it was getting a astrical...Why do you want an astrical for interior?Another thing to realize is you can't rip down a steel door, and a door company isn't going to make special doors for french, they're just going to use stock size + astrical. O.k. - How do you spell astrical?(spell check doesn't like it. lol)

        1. calvin | Mar 27, 2009 03:36am | #10

          GalA Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

          Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

          http://www.quittintime.com/

           

          1. back2work | Mar 27, 2009 03:38am | #12

            Aha!

        2. sawhorseconst | Mar 27, 2009 03:37am | #11

          You make some good points. On exterior steel doors you are correct, you can't rip them down and that is why they are a standard size 62" RO. Why should we have one set of rules for steel and one for wood? Maybe a third for composite?  I need an astrigal because it is a bathroom and the owners would like privacy. Astrigal is spelled with a "g"

          1. back2work | Mar 27, 2009 03:48am | #13

            Just doing the math here - 30+30+3/4+3/4+1/2(ast.)+1/2(space)=62 1/2 (+ reveals). Not arguing - it's been a few years since I've built. Is 62" big enough? (Maybe thats why I let the plywood hang over, can't remember .)

          2. sawhorseconst | Mar 27, 2009 04:00am | #14

            OK. Thanks to all for your help.

            I'll end up doing it myself, it's not that big a deal, but it's the principal of the matter that gets me.

      3. User avater
        EricPaulson | Mar 27, 2009 03:31am | #9

        The shop will not alter it?

        By the time you get it there and back you could.....................but you know that already. 

      4. jimAKAblue | Mar 27, 2009 07:09am | #19

        I, in my 29 years on construction have never framed a RO differently for a door with or without a T astrigal. Am I behind the times?

        See answer above...but since you ran that line by us, I'll run mine by you.

        I, in my 35 years have never framed a double door RO without adding the extra inch for the astragal. My reasoning is that it's easier to do a little fill in than to find an extra inch in a too small rough opening.

        You are not behind the times, you just didn't have enough information on the door details. Now, since you didn't play it safe, you'll have to re-frame the opening. Just take out the trimmers and replace them with 1" trimmers.

  4. jimAKAblue | Mar 27, 2009 07:05am | #18

    I always assume that the finish carpenter will add an astragal, so I always add 3/4 inch to the framed opening. I figure that if they decide to not use one, they can just add some fatter shims to make up the difference.



    Edited 3/27/2009 12:11 am ET by jimAKAblue

  5. YesMaam27577 | Mar 27, 2009 07:00pm | #24

    >>"Would you change the width of your opening to accomodate ......"

    I would frame the rough opening based on the print, or based on my specification if there was no print, or based on the sellers information if I was buying their "stock" unit.

    IMO -- there's about a 90% chance that the 62" dimension that others have mentioned, is correct. And of the remaining 10%, probably half of the chance is that the unit is slightly smaller (so no problem there).

    Leaving you with about a 5% chance that if you frame it without knowing the real number, you'll need to frame it twice.

    Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
    1. Westcoast | Mar 27, 2009 09:47pm | #25

      No that is the problem! With an astragal it needs to be framed 63" opening.

      1. back2work | Mar 27, 2009 10:03pm | #26

        Maybe we should start a thread on how to rip down steel doors - LOL.

  6. bennyd342 | Mar 27, 2009 11:02pm | #27

    add a 1/2" to your r.o.

     

    trimmer will like it!

     

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans

Hover's smartphone app offers an easier way to get precise 3D scans.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans
  • FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business
  • A Summer Retreat Preserved in the Catskill Mountains
  • Fine Homebuilding Issue #332 Online Highlights

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data