I am building a large garage/shop and will be using 5/8″ T1-11 as sheathing/siding. I plan to pre-prime the edges and use felt under T1-11 at the concrete/plate line and corners. My question is what are the pros and cons and or is horizontal blocking required at the joint line where the “Z Bar” makes the horizontal joint? If nessaccary, would the blocking be flat and flush instead of the edge presented to the outside of building? (in order to have enough to nail top and bottom of sheets beyond the flashing point) Advice is appreciated thanks in advance russ
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I would reconsider the T 111. I used that on two sheds in my yard, and I won't use it again. I would vinyl before using that and I hate vinyl. T 111 is unbelievably dry, it doesn't hold the paint or stain, it eats it. First build, 2 coats and looked fine. Next year another 1 to 2 coats, etc. It just never seems to look good and it dries out and starts to warp. The worst thing I've seen, if you want speed then just osb and vinyl. If you have a little time, use fiber cement.
There's no need for blocking.
IRC
R703.3.1 ... Horizontal joints in panel siding shall be lapped a minimum of 1 inch or shall be shiplapped or shall be flashed with Z flashing and occur over solid blocking, wood or wood structural panel sheathing.
This does not apply to detached accesssory building, but IMHO I would block with as much nailing surface as possible (2x4 flat).
Dave
Edited 2/28/2005 7:30 pm ET by DAVERICHESON
If you choose to block, I recommend putting the blocking flat instead of on edge. Whenever I sheathe the walls, I prefer to put the blocking flat because it's easier to nail the panels to it. Unless it has to be on edge for fireblocking, or the engineer specifed blocking on edge, then I put it flat.
I would block at the lap. Have seen it done with no blocking and was OK, but I like it solid.
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Blocking is good, but if you're set on T-111, specify "premium grade"....it should be at least 5 ply and with an unplugged clear face veneer.
Edge or flat blocking is really the engineer's call. On my house, the windward side had 3" and the back side had 1.5", with minimum 1" sheathing overlap and 3" perimeter nailing pattern. Just remember to put your Z in before you put in the upper sheathing...and don't laugh....I forgot to do that one time...and it twern't funny!!
BruceM
I'd block it as well...with flat blocking. I've installed trainloads of t1-11 and it can cup a bit between studs...more so over time.
also, be sure you really soak the bottom edge of your sheets that will be close to the ground. its where I see most siding fail.
"knowledge without experience is just information." Mark Twain