Replies

1. 
   calvin | Aug 19, 2005 02:30am | #1

   How wide? 

   I'll hang either plywood rips as the face of the soffit, or build and hang ladders made with metal studs. 

   If not too wide, drywall will span 24", 5/8's X to prevent sag.  Cross the bottom w/1/2" ply, cover with 3/8's drywall.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   JeffBuck | Aug 19, 2005 02:33am | #2

   I read this thinking Cal will have some good ideas.

   with that tight a fit ... wadda ya think about dropping it so the bottom of the drywall .. or what ever ... is right at the right height to run across the usual casing reveal.

   That's what I'd shoot for.

   Then .. just have 2 legs runni9ng down.

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   greenbuilder | Aug 19, 2005 04:33am | #6

   What do you mean, "usual casing reveal"?  Is that right above the door jamb?  If so, I think that is my only option, in fact I am hoping I can do that instead of butting up against it.  UGH!!!  I posted some pictures in the previous reply if you care to take a look.  They came out really big though.  You have to scroll to get the whole pic.

2. 
   greenbuilder | Aug 19, 2005 04:21am | #4

   This is great!!!  I thought I would post this & probably wouldn't hear anything for days or longer.  I am hoping to avoid metal studs.  I have taken a couple pictures I have tried to attach to this reply.  Hope it works just to give an idea of how little framing room I have to work with.  The duct work goes out about 6' from the door to where I can nail some framing to the joist by about 4' wide.  I am figuring on a double sliding door in front of the furnace & water heater.  I need HELP!!!

1. 
   GregDi | Aug 19, 2005 04:32am | #5

   That's a bad situation. I'm sure moving the ducts are out of the question, but that would be a good way to start.Otherwise, you are fighting for every 1/8" of an inch. See if you can get a 2X on the flat above the head of the door. Attach 3/8" rock to the bottom of the cleat (parallel to floor) and build the front of the soffit to return to it at 90 deg. Forget casing at the top. Just go with legs OR you might forgo casing entirely and use drywall wraps to the jambs.Good luck....

2. 
   calvin | Aug 19, 2005 04:38am | #7

   Resize those pics for us antiques on dialup.  640x480 or so.  150kb's max.

   What's the height to the top of that door jamb?  You cant hang board that big w/o fastening in there to framing or it will sag.  If you sheet it w/1/2" ply first and go over with 3/8's board, you might make it.

   You should have a bit of air between that duct and any cover.  Tight fit will pop when you turn on the heat/cool.  You wouldn't like that.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   greenbuilder | Aug 19, 2005 09:06pm | #9

   Sorry about that.  It took me a while to figure out how to resize those, but I did it.  Here ya go.

   
1. 
   calvin | Aug 19, 2005 09:25pm | #10

   What's your plans for the furnace and is this the finished side of the basement that you are cherrying out?

   A ledger above the door and a drop between the trunk and round duct should take care of the area out in front of the door.  A drop ladder or however you do it, in a configuration to surround the sides of that which you wish to cover with a soffit will take care of the perimeter.  If any of the free span is more than 24", sheet the area with plywood, then cover with sheetrock.

   If the door is full size at 6'8'', I'd give consideration to taking a couple inches off and resetting it.  Your choice if you want the knob 2" lower or take an inch off the top and bottom, reworking the side jambs to match up the hinge mortises.

   Never pack the soffit tight to the duct, nor screw anything to the duct. 

   Are there any flow adjustments in that area ?  Move those so you can regulate the flow through the ducts.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

   Edited 8/19/2005 2:28 pm ET by calvin

2. 
   greenbuilder | Aug 20, 2005 03:11am | #12

   I am going to put sliding or double doors in front of the furnace & the water heater.  No other choice really.  From all the input, it seems that the best option is plywood, then drywall.  I think I will try drywalling around the door opening and not use any molding around the door.

   The main part of the basement which is adjacent to the door in the picture will all be one room.  I will have to frame a soffit all the way around the room which will be about 24" wide and 8-1/2" high.  I want the drop ceiling in front of the door & the soffits to be the same elevation so I am doing the hardest part 1st.

   I have no idea what you mean by the flow control for the air.  Are you talking about dampers inside the heating vents?  If so, there are none.

3. 
   calvin | Aug 20, 2005 05:13am | #13

   yessir, dampers is what I was meaning.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

3. 
   HandySteve | Aug 20, 2005 12:34am | #11

   move the door

2. 
   calvin | Aug 19, 2005 03:06am | #3

   Here, ladders both sides using metal angle as bottom plate, run 1-5/8's metal stud across.

   Now, in your situation with the door already too high, you probably will have to remove the jamb and shorten, cut down the door.  Be careful of knob location AFF.

   Or do as jeff suggests and can the head casing.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/18/2005 8:18 pm ET by calvin

3. 
   Dinosaur | Aug 19, 2005 07:12am | #8

   Drop ceiling.

   Gyprock sealing utilities up into a basement ceiling is just asking for trouble on down the road. You know something is gonna need maintenance up there sometime or other. Or somebody is gonna want to add a circuit or computer line or whatever....

    

    

   Dinosaur

   A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...

   

   But it is not this day.