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Framing takeoff fundamentals

| Posted in Business on August 1, 2004 07:26am

I am going from a broad brush conservative estimate to a lumber takeoff I’ll use for ordering.  Here are some criteria I have used in the past.  What else should I be thinking?

  1. For each run of wall, one stud per foot, plus extras due to some kinds of window or door features.
  2. Wall length times plates, for platestock (2 on interiors, 3 on exteriors)
  3. Header stock sizing times lineal feet of all door and window widths
  4. Sheathing to cover all walls including openings, likewise wrap
  5. 20 to 30 2x4x16s for temp bracing (they’ll turn into blocking later)
  6. Floor structurals determine joists, headers, rims, posts, etc.
  7. Floor sheathing layout determines subfloor 4×8 counts.
  8. Roof is all trussed, but truss plan determines 2×4 bracing footage
  9. Roof edge footage for rough fascia and soffit block
  10. Truss count times overhang determines soffit joist footage
  11. Roof plan areas times pitch factor determines sheathing
  12. Examine total rafter lengths to check sheathing rip efficiencies and factor
  13. Treat all ceiling soffit drops like 3-plate walls and count accordingly.
  14. Ceiling strapping is ceiling area x 0.8 for lineal footage.

Add 15 to 20 percent to all totals.  My yard will take back without a pickup or restock fee.

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  1. User avater
    BossHog | Aug 01, 2004 07:38pm | #1

    Just one comment -

    You mentioned using 16' lumber for wall braces. Depending on the lumberyard, 16' lumber can be extremely expensive. Sometimes 18' lumber is even cheaper than 16'. (Not often, though)

    I'd suggest using 14' for bracing when possible. It's not a high demand length like 16' so it's typically quite a bit cheaper.

    But it also varies a lot from one place to the next, so it's worth asking about locally.

    .

    One last suggestion - Order plenty, and keep it tarped. I absolutely HATE running out of lumber when I need it. And if it's tarped, it'll be drier and more pleasant to work with.

    I like long walks. Especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. [Fred Allen]

  2. FastEddie1 | Aug 01, 2004 11:14pm | #2

    Never done that type of work Bob, so I'm going by ignorant logic. 

    Floor sheathing layout determines subfloor 4x8 counts.   Why not just use sq footage of the house, plus your 15% factor?

    Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

  3. Piffin | Aug 02, 2004 12:38am | #3

    Sometimes my plate lengths are 12's and 1114s so then I use 14' brace stock too, to increase effeciency since we always get some bad ones, that we use to brace with instead of fighting in the wall.

    1. # of studs, add one for every corner too. The add 15% for waste and bad and shortcuts

    3. header stock, since the header is at least four inches longer than the window openning size and there is waste factor here, add at least 20% to this

    7. Floor sheathing layout - with T&G, you will lose a half inch on each sheet so you can run short on a wide house, and a few sheets will be buggered up on the T&G edge so allow for that.

    11. Some roof palns can need an additional 15-20% for waste re Californisa valleys, and hips.

    OOOoops! now I see your automatice 15-20% waste factor.Shouild I delete all this after typing it?

    Naw

     

     

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  4. build1234 | Sep 01, 2004 12:29am | #4

    Referencing item #1.

    I use 1.25 times exterior wall lengths in feet to get stud count. Seems to work ok, but I'm no production framer. We do additions so it's a bit of everything.

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