OK … mud sill is down! Put in over 100 tapcons. I will still put in chemical or wedge anchors when I get the walls up.
I am just ordering the wood for the walls …
3500 sq ft building … 16 ft high walls …
2 x 6’s on 16 inch centers
1/2″ OSB sheathing
You guys said to run the sheathing horizontal rather than vertical (can you tell I have never built anything this big before )
So … what about blocking?
Now that the sheets are running horizontal, do I need to run blocking every 4 ft ?
This makes sense but I wanted to check before I did it. I have never needed blocking as I never built anything more than 8 ft. What do you do, just toe nail every second one I am guessing?
Thanks!
Mike
Replies
“[Deleted]”
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/framing/a-better-way-to-build-tall-walls
Might have some content of interest.
Blocking should be specified for the loads involved (seismic and wind) I think there used to be tables in the codes, but they changed it to say, consult a local engineer.
Awesome ... thanks!
Lumber was dropped off today ... after a week of 70 deg weather they are calling for snow!
50 by Saturday ...
Thanks again ... Mike
I'd certainly want blocking all along the joint in the osb. There are several ways to nail the blocking and about any of them are ok done in a workman like manner.
Thanks ...
I agree ...with a 16 ft wall, I think blocking every 4 ft will add a lot of strength.
I have a bit of learning ... ever used a nail gun but with this much building, I went for it.
Wood is here ... snowing tomorrow ... hope to start building on the weekend.
Thanks!
It depends on the seismic and wind loads. Around me in inland New England, no. South Florida or LA County, probably.
What is your plan to raise the walls? Do you plan to assemble a whole side including sheathing and then lift it?
Have you figured what sections will weigh?
When I built my ten ft tall garage, I built the frame in ten foot sections and lifted one at a time, connecting with the top plate. Then applied sheathing when it was the walls were up. With a nailgun and some planning, this let me trade the difficulty of lifting individual sheets with the challenge of lifting the assembled wall.
Just have to make sure you have enough sheathing installed before placing trusses on top.
If you plan to insulate and cover the walls on the inside, using rated sheathing on both inside and outside would functionally replace blocking as far as keeping the studs straight and parallel to each other. (that tradeoff assumes you can get the wall raised in place)
I decided that renting some scaffolding was a worthwhile expense.
I am planning to build and sheet on the ground ... say 20 ft sections.
My neighbor has a telehandler he says he will lend me.
it would probably pick up the entire wall but I think a 20 ft section will be hard enough to control.
I did a quick calculation ... a 20 ft section should weigh around 1250 ... so say 1500 even to be safe.
I am putting a bunch of hinges on the bottom (wall plate to mud sill) just to make sure it does not kick out on me (got some cheap ones ... will put one every 2 ft).
I "think" this is reasonable ... ????