Replies

1. 
   dieselpig | Dec 06, 2009 04:37am | #1

   I did the same thing in my (formerly) 60's ranch where the front door opens into what used to be the living room.  I used 1/4" Hardibacker with thinset and roofing nails to attach it to the subfloor.  Tiled over that with a pretty standard stock Home Depot tile (cheap) and it has held up great for the past three winters of coming in the door with muddy snowy workboots.  I made a small threshold transition out of oak to deal with the minor difference in finish height.  I also framed a 1/2 wall w/ oak cap next the entrance area to differentiate the space without enclosing it.

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2. 
   WayneL5 | Dec 06, 2009 04:56am | #2

   Your first decision is the tile.  Then the thickness of the underlayment will be determined by the thickness of the tile and mortar so the height comes out just about flush with the hardwood.  Hardibacker is an excellent choice because it is durable even in 1/4" thickness.

   As for tile, nearly anything except the softest (like Mexican Saltillo tile), that is made for floors, will hold up.  Tile is graded for durability and the rating would be a good guide.  Tile that is rated for higher traffic areas has thicker and or more abrasion resistant glazes.  Porcelain is about the most durable because on many designs the color goes all the way through, but you woudn't need that for a home.

   Slip resistance is an important consideration.  I'd recommend avoiding anything slippery such as polished stone or high gloss glazes.

   Given the above constraints, there are still thousands of choices and that all comes down to style.  That applies to grout, too.  Of course too light will eventually show dirt, but very dark grout can show salt tracked in on winter shoes, although it washes off easily.

   In my former dream home I used tile from Seneca Tile Company http://www.senecatiles.com/handmold/.  It fit well with the casual, homey, arts & crafts style of my home.

   Regarding installation, obviously I can't cover all of tile installation in a couple of sentences, but one point is worth making.  When grouting the joints do, or ask the tile setter to do, tooled joints.  In a tooled joint, after the grout is packed into the joints with a grout float, a masons' striking tool is used to pack the grout hard and smooth the surface before final sponging.  That makes it more durable and easier to clean.  It will set the job off as a premium job.

   Sealing is important, too.  My favorite grout sealant is Tec Guard All Invisible Penetrating Sealer, because it seals really well and doesn't change the grout color or sheen.

3. 
   WayneL5 | Dec 06, 2009 05:09am | #3

   One more thing.  You said you plan to tile as wide as the door.  I'd encourage you to go wider.  When people come in the door they don't go straight in, but step to the side a little bit.  And if you have guests, often several will come in at once, stomp their feet, and stand nearby dripping as they remove their coats and boots.

4. 
   gordsco | Dec 06, 2009 07:07am | #4

   There is no reason why you could not install the hardwood and do the tile later. If this is a sanded hardwood floor I would recommend it.

   Make sure there is a good coat of varnish on the exposed hardwood inside the tile frame.

    

1. 
   FastEddie | Dec 06, 2009 07:14am | #5

   Do the tile first, unless there will be a pattern in the wood.  By doing the tile first, he can use all whole tiles with no cuts."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   gordsco | Dec 06, 2009 05:14pm | #7

   With the dimension of one tile, an opening can be created whether it is 4 tiles or 50 tiles.

   The other issue is cut hardwood, narrow boards meeting the tile opening. Also, if the tile is not laid square to the floor run, boards will have to be tapered.

   The 'picture frame' or the flooring mitered to frame the tile can be butt grouted on a small frame. Or a metal tile edge(Shluter) gives a clean line between tile and wood.

   http://www.schluter.com/137.aspx

      

2. 
   Don | Dec 06, 2009 09:29am | #6

   I did it this way in my daughter's family room. Worked out fine. When I laid the hardwood I used a piece of flooring as a frame to butt the hardwood against. Put in the tile about a month later. With the hardwood frame, I wound up w/ no cut ends showing. They all T&G into the frame piece. Meant I had to be precise & careful cutting the tiles. Came out looking really neat.DonDon Reinhard
   The Glass Masterworks
   "If it scratches, I etch it!"

5. 
   ms | Dec 06, 2009 07:37pm | #8

   If it was architecturally pleasing a 6X6 mudroom [or bigger]would go along way to saving wear & tear on the living room floor. I have a 60's ranch in VT and for a few winters lived with water-hog mats to catch the mud, snow & salt at the entry way. It was always less than adequate and drove me nuts to see us marring an oak floor.
   Good luck,
   Mark

6. 
   popawheelie | Dec 06, 2009 07:48pm | #9

   We have hardwood right inside the door.

   Don't forget to get a nice throw rug for on top of the tile.

   When it gets loaded up with dirt I just take it outside and beat it.

   On the outside of the door get a mat that will collect dirt as well.

    

    

   "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."
   Will Rogers
7. 
   Kimball | Dec 06, 2009 11:56pm | #10

   Was wondering why you used oak ply for underlayment? Sounds expensive.

    

   Kimball