Long time lurker looking for some input on putting Fiberglass Reinforce Panels up. Should I be scared or do they go without a hitch if you follow the instructions. Need to put a bid together for a Medical lab and I do not have any experience with sheet like plastic other than other then thick tub and shower panels. Not this eight inch if that thick material.
I do value the opinions here You folks were very right about the multi master, love that tool.
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to All!
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treat like any paneling....
accuracy counts...
use the FRP cement that comes in gallons and not the caulk tubes...
1/8 to 3/16 V notched trowel for smooth walls.... 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8" for uneven or rough wall where you may need to use the cement for gap bridging....
don't dwadle or apply any more cement than you can handle in 10 mins or so...
flash each sheet as you go...
prefit a lot...
O'Henry makes a good product for this....
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Franklin Adhesives has a good product specific for FRP.
There will be plastic trims for the joining of panels, end caps, I.S. and O.S. corners.
You want to leave the prescribed gap in the trims to keep the product from buckling later on.
I have gotten in the habit of slipping on the batten and then after plumbing it, put a couple pcs of tape to show where I want it on the already assembled panel. Then I take a stapler (hand) and put in maybe 4 staples on the visible (soon to be unseen) flange to hold it in place (If hung on drywall). The batten has a wide edge and a narrow edge. I install the short to the already installed panel, leaving and stapling the wider edge to receive the next panel. I'll draw a flat putty knife blade down along the batten to help the next panel enter.
Have plenty of rags and thinner around-this tends to get messy.
If going back over the bottom with a vinyl base-or any base- I let the battens and corners run long, cutting them with a knife and sharp chisel when I run the base.
It's helps to have two involved-this stuff is a bit heavy and awkward to work with. However, can be done alone. Keep it plumb and level and clean and you'll do a beautiful job.
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I don't know about architectural panels, but I've worked with fiberglass sheet in a manufacturing plant where we used some in areas where we needed chemical resistance.
It's easier to cut with abrasive blades rather than toothed blades. A coarse abrasive with an open matrix is best.
Don't rub your hands along cut edges or you'll inject the fibers into your skin and you'll itch like crazy. If you do get stabbed, most can be removed by patting your skin with the sticky side of duct tape.
If you are doing cutting, you may wish to wear long sleeves and a hat. Better yet, one of those lightweight disposable Tyvek suits.
Late to this thread but thought I would interject some tips here. The best and easiest way I have found to cut FRP is with a laminate trimmer. I make up a 4x10 table on horses and just use the edge of the plywood as a straight edge. Mouldings are cut on a chop saw with a finish blade. Receptacles are cut out with a roto-zip.
I prefer the latex based adhesives as they clean up and spread MUCH easier than solvent based. I made up a 2x4 block about 24" long and stapled indoor outdoor carpet on it and I use it and a rubber mallet to bond the FRP to the walls.
Hope that helped you.
Routers work well for cutting. I've had equally good luck cutting with a jig saw, and a tables saw. I have seen miles of the stuff cut with a metal shear. All work well