Replies

1. 
   DavidThomas | May 25, 2002 01:27am | #1

   Stray, I understand the desire to have a gas-fired cooktop and dryer. A more controllable cooking flame and clothes get dry in 50 minutes instead of 2 hours. Replacing the cooktop with a gas model is the easiest, because you only need to run the fuel gas line to behind the range. For the dryer, hopefully you can use existing metal ductwork. But double check that it is metal all the way. And compare the diameter (3 vs 4 inch), type (smooth metal = good, flexible metal = bad), and number of bends (each manfacturer details the limits).

   Convert the boiler only IF the same make and model was available both ways and all the non-in-common parts are available to replace the fuel-oil compenents. It will take a bit of research on someone's part. I'd want to see the two (oil and propane) models in exploded view with all part numbers detailed to confirm that you would be recreating a completely accurate example of the propane version.

   Consider that this could easily match or exceed the cost of a new boiler and leaves open many ways to slip up. And consider that fuel oil is typically cheaper than propane in terms of $ per BTU. I have engineered new fuel trains onto old burners (thermal oxidizer units that cost $150,000) but I wouldn't do this. Too easy to screw up unless someone is VERY familiar with the unit, no cost savings, it is located INSIDE your own house, and new units are pretty cheap (and may be more efficient). I'd operate it until it dies and then buy a new unit then.

   David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska
1. 
   Stray | May 25, 2002 05:57am | #2

   Dave,

   That's kind of what I was afraid of (re. cost being the same as new boiler).  Perhaps I'll rent a small lp tank just for the range and dryer.  I could always upgrade to a larger tank when the boiler dies i guess.

   Point well taked re. dryer venting.  The run is only 6', but I'd still replace the silly plastic flex with straight wall steel no matter what.

   Thanks.

1. 
   DavidThomas | May 25, 2002 09:11am | #3

   Good. Six feet of flex is more than some manfacturers allow. They all recommend that you use it only if needed and only for a weird angle over a short distance.

   A range will run a long time on an 80-pound (20 gallon) tank - like a year or two! Dryers, on the other hand, go through some serious BTUs for an hour at a time. If you convert the dryer, I'd consdier potable tanks as a interim measure only. One that lets you test everything and confirm what your propane demand will be in the long run. Fixed tanks have the three advantages that 1) the are bigger and last longer, 2) buying in bulk is cheaper (like $1.29/gallon instead of $2.10), and, most significantly, 3) they bring the propane TO YOU instead of you CARRYING the portable tanks to them.

   David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska

2. 
   rjw | May 25, 2002 03:50pm | #4

   "replace the silly plastic flex"

   What makes you think it's merely silly?  It's a fire hazard!  You're absolutely right to get rid of it!

2. 
   Mongo | Jun 07, 2002 02:54am | #5

   Stray,

   I'd run a split system for a year or two before jumping on the conversion bandwagon. I've oil heat, with a propane tank for the kitchen cooktop. The propane company offered tank rentals, or the option of purchasing a "refurbished" tank. I opted for a 75 gallon refurbished tank for $75.

   They come by to fill it every other year...and I still barely make a dent in it. We cook all the time, yet still average only about 12 gallons use per year.

1. 
   Stray | Jun 09, 2002 05:04am | #6

   Thanks Mongo.  I think that's what I've settled on.  The boiler is a Weil Mclain about 8yrs old.  Fuel oil is much cheaper than LP here, so I think I may have the boiler for quite some time.  I would expect big savings from running the dryer and stoves off the LP vs electric (Electric in NY is above .10/KWH).

   Looks like the house deal will go through....so I'll have plenty of new projects even without converting the boiler.