Replies

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Nov 28, 2005 07:30pm | #1

   Emergency furnace switch?

   Do you mean disconect, or a toggle switch.

   If it is a disconect, it should be within line of sight of the unit. If it is a toggle swithch (light switch), it should be on the side of the furnace.

   Need a little clarity here.

    

   Dave

1. 
   kbd | Nov 28, 2005 07:56pm | #2

   This is a toggle switch upstairs with a special red plate, saying "emergency furnace shut off". There is also a toggle on the furnace itself.

1. 
   DanH | Nov 29, 2005 12:39am | #3

   Must be a local requirement. Check with your local building code people.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

1. 
   rjw | Nov 29, 2005 06:32am | #8

   I think it is an oil fuel thing

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   Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace

2. 
   WayneL5 | Nov 29, 2005 02:27am | #4

   I don't know what the code is, but all my life I've seen them at the top of the basement stairwell.  They are usually located quite a bit higher than a normal light switch.

3. 
   bigman | Nov 29, 2005 02:48am | #5

   Sorry, don't have the exact code reference in front of me, but in CT the electrical code calls for an service switch and an outlet at the furnace (not line of sight) and the plumbing/heating code calls for the emergency service switch to be at the entry of the furnace room.

   The switch can be located immediately inside or outside the furnace area. If your basement is unfinished then the switch should be at the top of the stairs, either in or outside of the stairwell.

   If the furnace is located in a room in the basement, then you do not need the switch at the top of the stairs, it needs to be in the entry of the furnace room.

   Note* this only applies to oil-fired furnaces, so that shutting down the furnace will stop the fuel pump on the burner. A gas fired furnace does not have a pump, an emergency shutoff is useless (as far as stopping fuel), but still requires a service switch at the furnace.

1. 
   RenaissanceRestorations | Nov 29, 2005 03:07am | #6

   I've seen the switch right inside the back door to some houses, as in one case, access to the cellar was through a hatch in the rear porch's floor.Renaissance Restorations llcVictorian Home Restoration Serviceshttp://www.renaissancerestorations.com

2. 
   kbd | Nov 30, 2005 12:26am | #9

   It is an oil burner. I can't find a code for it, so I am going to move it to the top of the stairs, up high. Essentially just turning it 180 degrees, to the other surface of the wall.  Thanks for all of your  imputs.

1. 
   DanH | Nov 30, 2005 12:58am | #10

   Just FYI, often that change can be made by prying the box loose and flipping it around, without having to touch the wiring itself. You may have to jury-rig something to mount the box on, but otherwise it's apt to be quite straightforward.And to fill in the hole in the drywall, try this trick: Square up the hole nicely, then cut a piece of drywall that's about 4" larger in each direction than the hole. Scribe the BACKING of the drywall at the 2" mark all around and break it along the scribe, then peel the 2" wide piece of drywall off the facing paper, leaving a piece of drywall the size of the hole, but with facing paper 2" larger in each direction. Mud the inside edge of the hole and the surface around the hole to about 3", then press the patch piece in place (trial-fit it before mudding, of course). Go over with a DW knife to press the paper into the mud, then come back later with one or two finish coats of mud.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

1. 
   arrowshooter | Nov 30, 2005 01:21am | #12

   Another way to do it.

   Cut a square patch bigger than the hole.

   Lay the patch over the hole and trace around it.

   Cut out the area you have marked.

   Get a board about 8 inches longer than the patch, liquid nail each end and insert it in the hole and drywall screw it top and bottom.

   Now liquid nail the board, insert the patch and drywall screw it to the board.

   Come back later and apply the finish coats.

   This works great for big or little holes. 

    

1. 
   DanH | Nov 30, 2005 01:22am | #13

   Except that with the switch box in the wall there's no clearance to insert the board in the wall.
   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

2. 
   kbd | Nov 30, 2005 10:04pm | #14

   Thanks for all your help.   Kevin

3. 
   arrowshooter | Dec 02, 2005 03:30am | #15

   In that case your way would be best. 

    

4. 
   gdcarpenter | Nov 29, 2005 05:42am | #7

   Rumpole of the Bailey quote?

   Let's not confuse the issue with facts!

5. 
   JTC1 | Nov 30, 2005 01:17am | #11

   I believe NEC requires a service disconnect means at the unit itself.

   That being said, it is not uncommon ( my house included ), to have a second switch at the head of the basement stairs which will also shut off power to the furnace.  Don't know if that switch is required by any code locally, but they are popular.

   I always liked the idea - if there is a problem with the furnace, I would prefer to be able to remove a potential ignition source / power to the pump which is spewing oil around my basement floor  / or whatever, without having to go right to the malfunctioning unit to get to a switch.

   Have also found these "two switch" installations on gas fired furnaces.

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

   
   

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   Edited 11/29/2005 5:19 pm ET by JTC1