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I am in the process of building a two-story colonial house. My question is regarding the need for headers over windows and doors on the gable-end wall of a house. Any comments would be appreciated.
Let me explain my situation. Geometrically speaking, my house is a simple box 28′ wide x 48′ long with a correspondingly simple 10/12 roof with gable ends at both ends of the house. Main beams run the length of house supporting both the main and second floors,located midway along the width of the house (i.e. 14′ in along the 28′ wall width) which is the gable wall. For both the main and second floors, floor joists run parallel to the 28′ wall (the gable end walls). All exterior wall construction is 2 x 6.
On the main floor of the house, we have a large kitchen window (8′ long, 97″ R.O.) During framing, the subcontractor we employed framed this window without a 2 x 10 header, stating that on the gable wall, with the joists spanning in a direction parallel to the gable wall, that a header was not needed on the basis that there was no load to be supported over the window. I protested, but this professional insisted that he was right and that he did this all the time.
Now we are getting ready for drywall, and I have noticed quite a bend in the top plates mid-span over this window. There is probably a 3/8″-1/2″ deflection in the top 2 x 4 frame over the window and it seems to be “telegraphing” from a comparable bend in the top sill plate and the band joist sitting on top of the wall (the end band joist is a single 2 x 10). I don’t know whether this bend was “built-in” when the second floor was framed, or whether I am seeing structural loading.
If the window was on the second floor, I think I would agree with my framer, but on the main floor the lack of a header over such a long window span concerns me.
Do I have a problem? Should I proceed with finishing? If I do indeed have reason for concern, how can I go about reinforcing the window opening? I have access to the inside of the wall at this point, but the outside of the house is finished, including siding.
I don’t see how I could retrofit a header. I have contemplated adding a piece of angle iron as a support, or possibly a sheet of thin steel plate to span over the window.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
James Cross
Waterford, VT
Replies
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So his point is that since the joists don't bear on the window, that there's not a significant load on that space? That a double top plate can distribute the loads from the second floor walls and whatever the roof transmits? Seems like a funny chance to take to save a couple 2x10's. I could maybe see it on a small window but 8 feet? I always overbuild on the side of safety in situations like this. At the very least, he's asking for cracks in the drywall or plaster, and maybe a window callback. And if there is that much of a deflection now, while the house is still being built, how about projecting it over the test of time? What does the framer say about it?
I don't see why
b HE
couldn't retrofit a header in this case, as long as the framing is exposed. Unless the siding is screwed on? What is the siding? The sheathing? The insulation?
Are the walls 2x4 or 2x6? If it's 2x6 I have a pretty good remedy.
Who is the general contractor? Why is a "framer" skimping on wood?
MD
*Okay, I just reread your post and see that the walls are 2x4. What's the rest of it?
*Thanks for the reply. The exterior walls are all 2x6. Interior walls are of course 2x4. I'm the GC so I can't point the finger elsewhere, other than that I deferred to the advice of someone supposedly more knowledgable than me.What's your fix that's compatible with 2x6 wall construction? I'm really curious!Thanks again.JGC
*I forgot to answer the rest of your questions:siding is vinylsheathing is 9/16" OSBinsulation is fiberglass battJGC
*I read this as a single 2x10 band joist sitting on the outside perimeter of a 2x6 wall with double 2x6 top plates. Span from exterior wall to center beam is 14 feet. Window is probably centered in this span leaving 3 feet on a side and doubles studs each side of the window RO.Weight of structure above, (2x6 framing, sheathing, siding, gable rafter, portion of roof sheathing and shingles, etc.) is deflecting the band joist as well as the double plates spanning an 8' opening. (Unless the crown on the band is down).Possible solution since you are still open on the inside:Place a support midspan of the window opening and attempt to raise the top plates, etc. ie. jack it up carefully. Once up, double up the band joist over the window. It doesn't need to jam in beam to beam since you already have at least doubled 2x6's each side of the window. I would have at least triple 2x6's for the window and you could easily add more since the wall is still open. Nail off the new 2x10 to the rim joist. If you need to shave a little off the width of the 2x10 to get it in, OK. Overkill maybe, but for another $10 I would get a third 2x10 and nail that off to the one you just put in. See if your architect or engineer has a preferred nailing pattern.Now you got a header. Get a small handfull of long screws, like Timberlock, and run them up through the double top plate into your new headers and you're done. Take out the support. Standard disclaimer applies.
*I usually use Table 602.7 from the ICC 1&2 Family Dwelling Code book.You are supporting a roof and story above so 2 2x10's.By the way all exterior walls are load bearing.
*> Main beams run the length of house supporting both the main and second floors,located midway along the width of the house (i.e. 14' in along the 28' wall width) which is the gable wall.I don't understand this. It sounds like a 48' beam supported at the end by the gable wall. What am I missing here (be nice...)?Rich Beckman
*James.My eyes burn but could you clear this up for me? You have a beam that carries the 2nd floor joists splitting their span in half? and that beam sits above that window? And on that floor above, there are walls sitting on that floor carried by that beam? Or not? Like I said, my eyes burn.
*Two minds run in the same ditch.
*I find it comforting that I'm not just imagining that difficulty. Or at least not imagining it alone!Rich Beckman
*The both of you are imaginary.
*Well, I assume your main difficulty is dealing with the siding, since it is nailed on, and (should be) nailed into the cripples above the window. (assuming there are cripples above the window, and it's not tight to the top plate.With me? Well, I would rip the cripples from the inside, using a combination of a skilsaw and a sawzall or even a jigsaw to leave a little less than two inches and a half (in width) of the cripples spanning from the window nailer to the top plate. Now you've got just the right amount of room for a couple header pieces. Chances are this is the height of a 2x10 plus possibly another 2x height, to match the other windows on that level, and assuming you have eight foot walls and the headers are tight to the plates. But whatever the height is, just add that size dimensional lumber, doubled and you've got your header. You'll need to jack up the deflected plates to get it to fit.Now you just need some jacks, which are probably already there, though with this guy, you may need to make sure they're done right. Add kings and you've got what should have been there weeks ago. Now take those cutoffs and give that clown a whack. then, take a close look at the rest of his work, especially all the headers, jacks and cripples around the house.Let me know if I haven't been clear enough.MD
*And that from an old guy with a full head of hair. Jeesh.