I have a number of customers with 6″ galvanized gutters. They have hired me to replace the rotten facia behind the leaking seams. Other than the seams the gutters are in great shape. Gutter companys tell them to replace the whole system with the new 5″ aluminum. To me this is a waste of money and material. Can anyone tell me the right way to repair these seams, so they hold water and look good from the outside.
I’m new to this forum, but have been monitoring it for the last week or so. Thank you in advance for your help.
Replies
I have used (with good success) Geocel 2300 caulk followed by a coating (or two) of Geocel 2310 brushable. Most roofing suppliers carry Geocel products.
Thanks, I'll give that a try, combined with a patch of galvanized sheet metal to cover the rusted out sections.
The sheet metal patch is a good idea. Pop rivet it down.
We have found that the modern galvanized gutters are holding up very poorly. I put 5" half round on my own home about 5 years ago only to find them rusting in 3 years. The galvanizing is just too thin. We may have some acid rain issues here in southern PA, but other than that, my gutters haven't had a piece of debris in them to accelerate corrosion. When you solder a joint or a patch or whatever, you are bonding to the zinc. If there is rust there, the zinc is no longer there protecting the bare steel and also providing a bonding surface for your solder. In other words, the patch won't stick, or it will stick in some places but not others. The Geocel idea is as good as any for this type of repair.
carpenter in transition
I'm glad someone else has noticed the decline of galvanized gutter. I try to avoid using it anymore. I had a lot of problems with the terne metal that was produced right before they swithched to terne II (which I won't use). I have no proof, but I think the lead content was lowered before they switched.
Around here (south Florida) a good galvanized gutter job means soldered joints. Most of the installers use a propane fire pot with 4 or 5 irons heating all the time. They flux the joints and use the large bars of solder. It makes a nice job that doesn't require re-caulking every other year.
That's the way to go with new installs, but I'm not sure how that will work with rusted out seams and previously painted surfaces. Thanks for the response.
Clean well with wire brush on a drill and flux well, just remember galvie contains lead and heating it will produce lead oxide.
That's how it's done in my neck of the woods on new work. But, I've been soldering for 20+ years and I won't guarantee a re-solder job. There's usually a reason the solder failed (expansion/contraction usually) and the geocel method moves with the gutter. I've got some repairs that are 10+ years old and still holding.
I know what you're saying and agree but assume that anyone taking the time to solder old joints would also take the time to replace any bad metal. I'm gun shy of using any type caulk anywhere anytime for water proofing. I know it works for awhile but then no one bothers to check to see if needs to be replaced and the next thing you know water has infiltrated the sidewall and everything is rotten. I suppose I shouldn't complain, it's job security. At some point down the road the customer needs new gutters and a wall or two replaced.
What about copper? Do you use it much for gutters? Seems like over the long haul it might be cheaper than galvanized.
Almost all of my work is copper. The geocel patch is just my method of getting a couple of more years out of a worn out system until the customer takes the big plunge and buys himself some copper gutters.
Edited 7/8/2003 7:04:16 AM ET by greencu