Replies

1. 
   Jeff_McGough | Jan 05, 1999 07:31am | #1

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   First thing I thought about when I read your post was to ask you what the moisture content of the flooring was at the time of installation. Was the space conditioned prior to installation? Was it measured with the proper instrument or was the value assumed? Was the flooring stickered and acclimated? etc.? etc.??

   I am going to save this thread and God help me if you blame it on the RFH guy. Been there...done that!!

   HEAT GUY with a MOISTURE METER(and I USE it!)

1. 
   Tom_Panaccione | Jan 05, 1999 09:48pm | #2

   *The boards were stored in the room for about five weeks prior to the installation. The contractor said this was the correct aclimatization for the lumber. After that the floor was installed assuming the conditions were OK.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jan 05, 1999 10:42pm | #3

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   Damage can also occur when dry boards are butted together and then humidity is introduced. The boards compress together, crushing the cells in the edges. Then, when the humidity departs, the boards shrink and are actually more narrow than originally. This occurs most with jobs done during the winter or spring, before summer humidity enters the scene. Seems like it's a crap shoot either way. Since it's only been since August, I'd get the flooring contractor who thought the wood had acclimated in to explain himself and what he was going to do about the cracks.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 06, 1999 09:47am | #4

   *Tom, its possible your floor is undergoing normal expansion and contraction due to high variables in relative humidity. After 5 weeks of acclamation,your Jatoba was perfect for installation in an August environment. 'Round about May and a good week of New England rain and dank, all will be tight as a drum again. It's the nature of wood.You can calculate the variable by finding out what the percentage of expansion and contraction is for Jatoba at given Humidities and Temperatures... sounds like you've got gaps totalling less than 0.10 inches. Divide 3.0 inches by the gap and arrive at your figure. Compare to charts published for Jatoba. There's your answer. Low to normal, good install. High? Call your installer, and ask why.

3. 
   Tom_Panaccione | Jan 11, 1999 09:25am | #5

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   After running the humidifier for a week I'd say the gaps are beginning to close back in. Also from what you're telling me here along with info I've found from hardwood floor sites on the web I believe the floor is going through normal shrink-stretch movement. Somewhere I read "If you don't want to look at a few gaps in the floor, then don't install a hardwood floor." Bottom line, the floor is OK. I'm moving on. Any ideas on a finish for deep wood tones?

4. 
   Tom_Panaccione | Jan 11, 1999 10:37am | #6

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   Our new jatoba floor was installed last August in a new addition 16X24. It's over a full basement, the heat is a gas fireplace with fan (damn dry). The floor was installed by a professional contractor and looked beautiful but now there are gaps between most of the three-inch boards. The gaps are about wide enough to stand a credit card in between. The floor is not yet sanded and finished because while we still had work to do in room the contractor wanted to wait. I have put humidifier in the room to try to put some moisture back into the boards. No results after only a few days. We live in New England where humidity changes greatly throughout the year. What can be done to salvage this floor? Is there a product such as an oil or finish that will force the wood to swell?

5. 
   Guest_ | Jan 11, 1999 10:37am | #7

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   Tom, I like oil or a Satin Varnish for a fine wood like Jatoba. Being in the old-house business, not much goes with high-gloss. Not knowing your surroundings, pick a complimentary finish.