Replies

1. 
   jagwah | May 02, 2007 10:13pm | #1

   If your lucky Tom there is  removable trim on the backside of the garage door but not likely. In which case you'll need to rout this out and put one in after you install the panel.

   I would consider a piece of 1/4" standard hardboard, (holds paint better than Temp.HdBd) much like your removing but oil prime all edges and paint before you install. I'd not worry to much about the expansion, allow maybe 1/4" or so smaller than the width and height.

   I'd suspend the panel in place then clear caulk the space all around the panel smoothing it down so you can then install your picture frame like trim to hold it in.

   Then give it one more coat of paint.

   Needing to do much more than this may make a new door more affordable.

    

1. 
   TomH | May 02, 2007 10:34pm | #2

   Thanks for the reply. No removable stops. I planned to use a utility knife and a chisel since the wood is pretty soft. If I did use a router, what would be the best way to make a straight cut  and not hack up the stiles and rails? I don't trust my ability to do it freehand. With respect to the caulk, would this restrict the ability of the panel to expand and contract? What type would you recommend? polyurethane, since it remains flexible?

1. 
   jagwah | May 03, 2007 12:09am | #4

   Tempered hardboard is darker oiled product. Standard hardboard is light tan, raw looking by comparison. Caulking shouldn't hinder anything. Hardboard shrinks and swells very little.

   Just use a straight edge as a guide if you use a router but you could use a knife and chisel, just a lot more work. 

2. 
   DanH | May 03, 2007 12:32am | #5

   If you have a router you can use that to cut away the stop on one side. Just use a board for a fence (and check for nails first).
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

1. 
   BillHartmann | May 03, 2007 12:44am | #6

   There are several different types of construction.One would be a frame with set in panels, much like a pannel house door.The other is the type that I have. It has a masonite like skin on the external and it is wood grain embosed. On the inside is a smooth surface masonite panel. Between the two is a wood frame making a torson box.A router would not work on that design..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

2. 
   DanH | May 03, 2007 01:15am | #7

   Re "use a board for a fence": What I mean is this -- place your router (unplugged) against the door with a decent size mortising bit in it. Extend the router bit just a little (1/16" or so) past the base plate, and place the base plate flat against the door with the bit "dangling" in the opening for the panel. Slide the router back away from the panel opening until the bit just catches on the top-most lip of the stop. Put a mark on the door where the router base edge is, farthest away from the panel opening. Do this 3-4 places along the opening on each side and you should end up with marks in a straight line.Clamp or screw-tack a straight board (3/4" is generally best) with the edge along this line. Run the router bit down to about 1/4" and make a pass, with the router base against the board. Keep lowering the bit 1/4" and making passes with the router until you've cut away the entire stop.You may of course find that the router base is flopping in air if the stile is narrow and you have the door segment dismounted and on horses (or if you're working on the bottom stile in place). In that case you may need to use some scrap wood to "extend" the door stile a few inches.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

2. 
   TomH | May 02, 2007 10:41pm | #3

   What's the difference between hardboard and tempored hardboard and how do I know which is which (most likely shopping at HD).