All
I looked at a job today with a pergola type feature on the front that is rotting. The house was built in the 1920s. The garage was added on in the 1970s.
The pergola rafter tails are 2×8 x 32″ long.
The posts, the rafter tails, the fascia and the soffit are all rotting. The gutter was installed below the pegola. On the rebuild the owner wants the gutter above and the pergola underneath.
The gutter just hangs under the fascia. The new fascia will have to be extra deep 12″-13″ in order to attach the rafter tails. It will have to hangdown about 5″.
I would like to use a Azek type of product and fiberglass columns. While talking to the lumberyard this morning we were unable to find a 2x PVC product that I could make the rafter tails with.
The design also has a 4×4 that runs from column to column. Then the rafter tails rest on that. I am concerned that any PVC 4×4 is going to bow badly between the columns. The columns are approximately 12′ apart.
I’ll post some pics and thank you for your input.
Rich
Replies
All
Here are some more pics. The HO wants to get column like the main entrance, that's why I included pics of that.
Rich
View Image
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As for the columns, just get up with http://www.columns.com and look at the selections to match yours there. Wood or Composite are readily avail. I recently got some capitals and the Co. is a great place to work with..but..spendy.
Alternative #2 is find a skilled woodworker to make new bases and fix the rot with abatron products. I have done a few. I would not even consider manufacturing my own columns unless it was a last resort or other highly unusual circumstance, just re building them is a major chore.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Sphere
Thanks
for columns I was thinking about using fiberglass columns from Outwater.
I have always been pleased with their products, although I don't think I have ever gotten fiberglass columns of this size.
Rich
Use fibercement columns (much more solid than fiberglas) - http://www.doorandcolumn.com/stavecast-composite-columns.html
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Interestingly, Walpole Woodworkers - http://www.walpolewoodworkers.com/shop/display.cfm?q=Y2F0ZWdvcnlfaWRlbnQ9MTA4MyZwYXJlbnRfaWRlbnQ9MCZzZWxlY3RlZD1nYXJkZW5fc3RydWN0dXJlcw==
has gone largely over to Azek ... and offers 2 x members:
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Jeff
Edited 3/8/2009 9:44 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
Jeff
Thanks for the links.
My lumber rep is currently searching for 2x PVC or Azek.
Azek is not real popular here yet. When I have ordered 5/4 x6" trim it comes from Certainteed.
I'll certainly check out the composite columns. What are they made of?
The word composite is throw around alot anymore.
Rich
Somerset's (see link) are fiber-cement and very durable. When primed with a masonry primer (like Loxon) and finished with latex they look amazing and will outperform wood by many years.
I found the best way to prime them (we have 11) was to set up horses with short blocks scabbed on top and to support them at neck and base (both of which end up covered by capital/base pieces) then spray and turn.
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks for the tips on the columns.
I'll press harder to 2x Azek. These rafter tails are only 32" total length. PVC should be strong enough to span that.
I am a little worried about using a piece of 12" fascia in PVC becuase this would hang in the open air for about 4-5" . Right now these tails attach to the fascia and the gutter just hangs below.
Certainteed make 1x and 5/4" fascia boards up to 12" wide.
Under the new plan the gutter would go above and tails below.
I still have to solve the 4 x 4 issue.
Rich
any idea why you can't laminate Azek 1x s?
john
Yeah. because I have ever done that. LOL
I would have to figure out which glue is best for that. That's no problem. BT or the website. BT is probably faster. LOL
But thanks for the idea.
We have been using the PVC from Certainteed on alot of exterior trim jobs lately.
Rich
I wouldn't use PVC for that application. I don't know how Walpole gets away with it. It will sag.
I would use red cedar, white oak, pressure treated, mahogany, cypress, locust, or another rot-resistant wood with good preparation and possibly even metal drip caps on top of each joist.
If you do laminate PVC, I've done a fair amount of it with Azek glue. The joint stays a little soft and telegraphs through but it's not too bad. You could also try regular plumber's cement or Bond-N-Fill.
Mike
My tails are only 32" long.
6-8" hangs over the 4x4.
I know that I have to use wood for the 4x4, PVC will sag before I leave the jobsite.
I am not thrilled about wrapping the 4x4 with fencing material. I am afraid that it will look cheap.
Plus the joints would have to be well sealed. There is nothing worse than moisture that gets behind a wrapped surface.
Whit oak??? Basswood says his mills have alot of white oak, and he doesn't live too far away 3-4 hours.
We don't have any lumber mills in our area. Just a farmer with a portable band saw. He is cutting up old cedar utility poles into decking cedar. Pretty good looking stuff.
I don't know where he gets the poles.
Rich
32" long total, 6-8" overhang, so only 24" unsupported? For that short a span the PVC would be ok.
Yeah, white oak is rot resistant. Red isn't.
Cedar would be ideal if it's heartwood and not too knotty. No fun trying to keep paint on knots.
"only 32" total length. PVC should be strong enough to span that."But not the header span 10-12 feet between columns.There is more to it than just spans. PVC really moves from heat. it may not make as much diff with white, but if this was painted dark, the tails would be wagging like a nervous puppy dogs tail as the sun moved across the sky.The smaller size of 2x6 instead of 2x8 for better proportion would help keep them more stable too as PVC. The placement under the fascia and soffit onto the frieze would get it below the gutter easily
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Piffin
wagging like a nervous puppy dogs tail as the sun moved across the sky.
Ok it is starting to sound like I should go with the red cedar or white oak.
This is a southern exposure.
Then a very good paint job on all exposed surfaces.
Build it all, paint all edges then assemble it.
Do you have any experience with epoxy paint?
Like I mentioned before FHB or JLC has run articles from a guy in New Orleans that does alot of restoration with epoxy paint.
Rich
Not with the paint, but used west system as a glue up and as a seal coat for under paints
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Cedar is fine but you'll need to flash the tops.
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks for the input. Flashing the tops will be easy.
Rich
No problem. I really like my stavecast (fibercement) columns a lot. They have matching bases and capitals in the same material.
Jeff
That's a good call
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That column between two garage doors makes me a little bit nervous. Does the existing one show any signs of ever having been 'nudged' by a car bumper?I think I'd keep a half whiskey barrel full of soil and a planting of pansies right in front of it.
Or maybe some climbing tea roses and light lattice to lead them up the column. The main thing being a planter for a bumper to keep cars from knocking into it.
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Piffin
How about a concrete whiskey barrel.
With some of those dock guard things hanging on the sides.
Does the existing one show any signs of ever having been 'nudged' by a car bumper?
No, but it is ready to fall over from rot.
These were salvaged in the 1970 from an old house that was being torn down.
Rich
some kind of safeety that looks like it fits the space Tall enough to not trip over it. I know of a 10" tall planter in a location like this and people back into it and trip over it all the time
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Piffin
I'll discuss this with the HO
They did this so that the 1970s garage would look like it ties into the 1920s house.
There is a similar but smaller detail (rafter end) near the front door.
Saleman from the lumber yard just e-mailed me. No 2x PVC available. I't have to glue 1x together. I don't think I will go that route.
The 4x4 has to be painted anyway, as do the composite columns.
Rich
All
Thank you to all for giving me your input.
Rich
Jeff
Did you see the door spraying jig in the spraying birch doors thread?
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=117565.6
Rich
Yes - very cool.
Jeff
I Would use fiberglass for the columns. And for the rafter buy sheets of PVC and lament them together to the thickness you need. Once painted you should not able to tell you did that.
You can find plastic fence matewrial at HD that slides over 4x4 and 2x6
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
jeff
I called somerset this morning and i am getting a quote e-mailed to me.
Thank you
Rich
Sandi is great and the columns are very reasonable, I think (like $250/ea)
Jeff
Jeff
I think that is the sales rep they gave me
Rich
Jeff
Sandi e-mailed me a quote. $245 delivered to IA.
I have not checked with the local lumberyard yet.
Internet and e-mail was a fater way to get a price.
Sometimes the rep at the yard can take a while to respond.
Rich
The whole time I was studying that garage photo, I was thinking the right way to do this is to add a frieze below the soffit and hang the pergola rafters there, then I look at the older entry and see that is how this is treated there. That simpler Tuscan column is far better for the house style than those fluted things also.I'd use DF or red cedar, no PVC product is going to do this without sagging.i'm thinking 2x6 would be more proportionate for th erafters too. That whole charade on fron tof that garage is mis-styled, and disproportionate, like a bad dream after a bad meal
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Piffin
Just an update on the garage pergola project.
I meet with the people and presented my ideas. I have know them for 20 plus years and have be in the same church with them.
They told me they wanted it done right so that's why they called me. ( Hard to be humble sometimes. LOL)
A couple weeks later I got an e-mail that they were going to go with a different plan. Their words.
Later I one of the boys tells me that another contractor was there and they tore off the old pergola work, repaired the soffit and left it at that.
I have been delaying telling you about it, because I feel bad for you, not for me, and I have been very busy.
Just thought you would want to know the outcome of the "project".
Again thanks for the "consulting" work and it was a fun thread. I hope you don't feel like your efforts were throw away. I learned alot about columns and I spent some serious thought about design considerations. Good intellectual excerise.
I am not upset at not getting the job, life is too short worry about little stuff like that. It's all part of the deal with being a contractor.
I have another job/volunteer situation that could be upsetting to me if I let it, but I am not going to let it steal my joy.
Have a good day.
Rich
I never consider time spent learning and growing with friends to be time wasted. Like time spent on Excell, - I haven't used it yet, but I know where it is and how to find what I might need now.I get an experience at least once a year like yours, where I make a good presentation based on my opinion of how it 'should' be done, to be right and good, where they go with cheaper and/or somebody else, usually for budget reasons.Then at some point later, they come back to me for more and better - or they recommend me to a friend/neighbor saying something like, "This guy really knows his stuff, wish we could have afforded him"So look at the practice as advertising expenseThis thread was indeed an example of the good value of Breaktime to participants and to Taunton.
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To the best of my knowledge, there are no 2X and no 4X pieces made from PVC.
You are correct in thinking that anything you do with PVC (only) will sag over that distance. Even the 32" tail length is more than PVC will take.
IMO, your best bet is to use a rot-resistant wood like cypress or cedar for the tails, and PT lumber for the horizontal support.
And whatever you do, make certain that water from the roof is directed properly away from the fascia. It should also not rest on the top edges of your tails and supports -- a couple of degrees of bevel is all it takes to shed water. This is perhaps the most important element of the job.
Think like a drop of water..........
Yes
Thank you for the reply.
If I went into the lumberyard and asked to order cypress I would get that deer in the headlights look.
If I went with cedar, then I would consider an epoxy paint. I have never used that outdoors (once in a bathroom) but I have read in FHB and JLC of a guy from New Orleans who does restoration type of stuff that uses epoxy all these types of projects.
You are right about shedding water.
Rich
You can buy plastic fencing material that slides over 2x and 4x stock.
I would not attach to fascia.
You should be able to go to wall and attach to beam over garage doors.
ANDYSZ2
WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Edited 3/7/2009 4:54 pm by ANDYSZ2
Sometimes these threads give me ideas to use for practice in my CAD program
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Piffin
Nice planters.
I like the idea of a 4x 6 with the ogee cut on the ends.
Very nice.
What program is that?
I like the garage doors too.
Rich
The drawn stringers are 3x6 and the main beam 4x6. That gives more strength than a 4x4, and notching the stringers over it to drop elevation makes the whole assembly stronger and more wrack resitantSee where I attach them at a frieze located under the soffit.
Would probably actually use hangers and then put dressed frieze in pieces between the stringers to cover the hardware.paired columns almost always look better than singles when there is space in a long span like that.And I drew the nicer doors to fit the overall style of what I imagine the house to be. They were in the symbols library anyways. The lattice and the beam ends were the only real customizing I had to do on this.Print it out and wave it under their noses if you want to sell them an upgrade. Gratis on me.Softplan v14
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What the heck? I just looked at it again, the lattice didn't show up in the jpg! I musta turned something off or forgot to save before commiting it to jpg
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Piffin
Would probably actually use hangers and then put dressed frieze in pieces between the stringers to cover the hardware.
I was planning on nailing or screwing them from the back side.
That will all be exposed. I have to replace the soffit any way.
notching the stringers over it to drop elevation makes the whole assembly stronger and more wrack resitant
I like that idea.
Thanks
Rich
Piffin
I really like the 2 column look.
I have room on each side for 2 columns but not in the middle.
After looking at my picture the one column looks kind of out of place.
View Image
Compared to this below
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If the cars hit them they'll really look out of place!
By the way, paired columns should be much closer together. Did you order 10" (actual is 9 5/8" I think)?
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Jeff
Edited 3/12/2009 9:06 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
jeff
I priced 10" x 8' tapered Tuscan style.
By the way, paired columns should be much closer together.
Like 16" between columns that are paired?
Or a ratio to diameter of the columns?
Rich
He's right they should be closer. I was just throwing stuff on the screen since I didn't have actuall dimensions. I would still do paired at flanks and single in center, then treat it slightly different like having a planter withe lattice only at that one.But I have often worked jobs where the columns were paired only at ends and corners and single in centers.
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Piffin
But I have often worked jobs where the columns were paired only at ends and corners and single in centers.
Then you have alot more experience than me.
I have only repaired columns on porches like the picture of the main house, or installed replacements.
Thanks for the help.
Rich
I am wondering too how things would look with granite or brick plinth bases about 18" height. That gets things safer from cars hitting and changes the profile and style.I'd want more dims and a picture showing more of the house style to work it up that way.I do a couple hours practice a day on my CAD to get fluent in all phases so I like doing different things, but if this got too professional, I'd want to get something out of it. so far I was just throwing out general ideas and playing.But here is from something I've done that will give you an idea of what I mean
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The only problem with that is that you end up shortening the column and then have to go to probably an 8" diameter (they only run 8", 10", 12") to avoid a 'fat' look of 10" dia. x 6'-6" tall. The 'fat' look of the columns could make the pergola members look too light.
In terms of spacing I would look at maybe 2"-3"-4" clearance between the bases or so, for 10" dia. that would likely put them at around 16"-17"-18" centers (max.) - at 18" you'd have around 8 1/2" clear between columns at the first 1/3 (straight portion) of the shaft.
The 'clear space' should not exceed the shaft diameter by any means. Piffins second photo (probably 8" dia. here) is nice - I'd put them closer and on an integrated base (one paneled base for two) and just keep in mind that the column $ goes down a little but you have to allow $$$ for bases (preferably in Azek/cedar etc.)
Jeff
Edited 3/12/2009 8:44 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
"The 'clear space' should not exceed the shaft diameter by any means."Ideally yes, but I've seen it look good wider - generally in larger spaces and structures.your other proportion comments are right on too, which is why I wouldn't spend any more time on this without exact dimensions of existing to make it fit right. What's there now is gross.
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Building those wood bases was a lot more expensive than the column cost would have been!That job was on a house that was a hundred years old and had suffered from some '70's type re-muddling. The entryway was gone altogether, other than a couple steps directly to the door. The new owners recognized that the space looked bare and was an uncomfortable entry so they asked for ideas. I sketched up something very similar to that right on the spot, and suddenly the ladies eyes lit up. She said just a minute!She came back with a book of the old houses here that had a couple photos from when her house was first built. It sowed that the house originally had the same porch that I built. It was so close to my concept sketch that she thought I was a genius. I just modeled it from her photo and we called it a restoration job, along with a lot of other interior upgrades.This was to lead into a full house reno and addition this past year, but they moved away and the house is on the market, all lonely and waiting new lovers.
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Exactly - you save maybe $50/column and then add in the bases cost (maybe $350 each from a millwork shop - or more).
Jeff
Jeff
The 'clear space' should not exceed the shaft diameter by any means. Piffins second photo (probably 8" dia. here) is nice - I'd put them closer and on an integrated base (one paneled base for two) and just keep in mind that the column $ goes down a little but you have to allow $$$ for bases (preferably in Azek/cedar etc.)
I assume you are talking about the columns in Piffins 2nd photo.
My concept for working with these 2 columns side by side is to pour a common pad of concrete the the 2 columns could sit on.
Both side columns now side off the driveway and have a hokey pad or base of sorts.
Right column View Image
Left column
View Image
Rich
I would pour a small concrete pad to set the paired columns on but I would also add a stone veneer to make it more stylish and if someone bumps it with a tire you can reinstall the stone.
ANDYSZ2
WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Edited 3/12/2009 10:22 am by ANDYSZ2
Andy
Thanks for the idea.
That would jazz it up.
Rich
I noticed on review of the photo, that there is brick a base of garage wall, so a brick plinth would be a good choice if you can come close to colour match.
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I would use 1 1/2" - 2" bluestone at grade over a concrete pier but that's just me.
Jeff
Jeff or All
My yard rep sent me a link to fiber composite columns.
http://www.dixiepacific.com/FiberglassColumns/PergolaKit/
On that link is this pergola kit in PVC.
I don't want to go this route, but I thought it might be of interest to some.
The video is interesting. They use a 10' x 3/8" threaded rod from the top of the post into a concrete anchor.
The anchor seems kind of puny compared to the height of the pergola. 70 mph winds could wreak havoc on an open structure like that. and we have had 70 mph winds (gusts) several times this year.
Rich
Rich
probably a necessity in five MPH winds with PVC, LOL
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Piffin
Here are some more pics with measurements. Garage measures 28' x 26 deep.
Most other measurents are on the picture.
You are under no obligation to draw any more. The 1st picture is enough.
But here are the measurements if you want to.
Rich
View Image
I have a large file downloading from a customer right now. Will look at these in a minute and probably play with it after dinner.
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Piffin
OK
I'm taking DW on date night.
Rich
OK, I just finished diner and am printing these out to take to my easy chair, laptop, and TV with me.Glass of wine maybeI wouldn't have this much fun for just anybody you know!
;)
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OK but remember what happened the last time you were drinking and designing ...
View Image
Jeff
That's funny
Rich
I was expecting something like that. He could have done better, maybe something Escher-like, LOLAny hoo...I noodled around in my head and played with this and that.
first version here is with the first concept adjusted to actual dimensions and the joists 24" OC.It has some disadvantages in that the far left column ends up slightly outside the plane of the left wall of the garage, and the joist layout becomes unbalanced in that every one near a column is not balanced as to location over it. Since the garage itself is a-symetrical, this may not be so critical, esp by comparison to what they have not. Or the two outermost columns can be pulled in another couple inches. These are 10-" columns as drawn and that would satisfy Jeff's rule for pairs placement. I was keeping some spread because the right pair might have more extension of beam, not shown here, and you don't want sagging.But the other criticism I had of this is that the center column looks awfully vulnerable and lonely, like a nude virgin offering to the bumper god.
I had removed the planter because it looked pretty large in that space.I will make a second post with my alternate ideas refining a couple things
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In this version, I aimed for better symmetry amongst the various elements and tried out the column base idea The joists end up close to black diamond spacing and the columns do the same, so I made the bases 19.5" x 19.5" also. That does look a little large for them.
Note too that I selected brick texture that is slightly different from the garage because new never seems to match old, something clients should be aware of ahead of time to discuss the possibility of an alternate material for the base. Splitface lifts with a bluestone cap is one thought for that. I was getting tired before drawing it that way though.
And I have to get some billing done today and prepare soon for a phone conference at 9AMSome comments for any way you do this..
Thanks for the overall and the porch details. I like studying details and how they work or not.I would profile the beam and joist ends to pattern after the existing elements on the house. You can do a tracing of those to a scrap of flashing metal and use it to pattern the new stuff.Notice that in the plan, the outrigger joists appear to hang free under side soffits. I see from one photo there is a funky detail there already. I would make a corbel bracket for there to support and trim that might copy from one I see on the front of the house.Overall, I am not fully satisfied with this yet. this is where I usually back off from my own work for a day or two and then come back at it with a fresh and critical eye to what can be improved and how...
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I was having problems with the attachment window and had to restart that process, got distracted by the glitch and ended up posting same image twice. Here is the one I intended to get up lat post to go along with this discussion - an image of the plan. Left one is first and tight is the latter.
Dang! I keep getting an error message from that upload window this morning. Trying again and again to attach this....
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Piffin
Thank you for taking the time to draw this and apply a critical eye to it.
1st impression.
I like the black diamond spacing better.
I also like the columns sitting on the ground or a small base, better than the taller brick base. I am not sure why.
I am going to have breakfast and mull it over.
We have to work out of town today install ing a front door and tape some drywall.
Again thank you many times over.
Rich
That's about my thinking - that it needs to have some of both those drawn together.If they haven't hit the columns for years so far, I am probably overconcerned about that, and insurance is always there to pay you for doing it again, LOL
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Piffin
I am going to patch the pictures together for others, so that in the same post they can see the existing and the excellent drawing by you.
Exisitng
View Image
Piffin's rendering
View Image
Rich
The outermost columns should not be beyond the side walls of the garage and should be closer together IMO.
I'd skip the brick piers - too easy to hit.
I think the center column is fine - and should be a pair as well.
Jeff
Edited 3/13/2009 9:46 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
Jeff
I think the center column is fine - and should be a pair as well.
You are just trying to get some insurance work next year. LOL
Even though I am the receiptant of this all this input, I think this type of thread is a fine example of what BT can be.
Design input and discussion from many sources. It's amazing that we can sent pictures all over and respond with pictures and ideas.
10 years ago i could not imagine why we needed internet and DSL.
Of course Piffin did all the work, and I am amazed at his generosity and the generosity of many other here on BT.
Thank you All.
Rich
Cargin,
Are letting the HO be privy to this site and specificly this thread ??
Seems they might enjoy seeing all the info gathering that you're doing behind the scenes.
Walter
Walter
At this time I have not.
I don't want Piffin or Jeff to steal the job. LOL
I hope that was funny.
I have done that in the past.
I don't remember, can people access the site without registering? For viewing only.
I did send them an e-mail with the pictures as they appeared in the last post, where I showed them before and after and I have not heard back.
I have given people links to a thread before when we were discussing their project, but not this one yet at this time.
Rich
How about some big brackets instead of columns? I've posted this picture before:
View Image
Mike
I just stopped home to get some JC, and I saw this post.
I like the idea of the brackets.
But I also like the columns.
The house has brackets and columns.View Image
Rich
I'd be hesitant about bringing a customer into such a discussion.Reason being, the more ideas most people are presented with, the more confused they become. The designer needs to take a leading hand and filter the information the client sees. Very few are able to discern and filter all the mixed information. This has been a solid thread, but you know how often a thread here can go haywire. Just imagine a frenchy coming along and advising your clients for you! You'd lose control of the job real quick.
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I vote brackets to match the house.
mAYBE YES, MAYBE NO.fOR JUST APPEAARANCE, FIRST GLANCE SAYS YES BRACKETS, BUT WITH A 24" SOFFIT AND 32" PERGOLA BEYOND, YOU HAVE <oops caps from plans notes> nearly five feet out there - lets say four feet to the beam. That brings the kicker of the bracket down into head bumping territory in a walk way. And he will have to get into framing inside the wall to back up the bracket. That isn't something you just throw onto the sheathing and hope it doesn't sag
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Understood, but it still seems that the columns just interfere more than anything. New garage doors an option to become more of the focal point? Really like the doors in your design, minus the column. And the center bracket with side columns is not too bad.
Edited 3/13/2009 8:27 pm ET by MgGuy
Piffin
Just got home.
I have to make supper.
I will comment latter.
Rich
I just ate,
I will read it later;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin
I will not share the thread with the HO.
I worked retail shoe sales for a while. The approach there was to show the customer 3 pairs, beyond that they just get confused. It didn't always work that way of course.
All the same I try to watch what I say on BT and how I say it.
This is a public forum, and I don't use coarse language on the street or on the job and I don't want to be seen doing it here either. Or speaking badly about another poster or the HO. You never know who is going to be viewing these posts.
They have always had columns, and i think they expect columns in the future.
Rich
You are a real stand up guy, a good example for all of us, and one reason I felt compelled to lend a hand on the views and layout ideas.
And It gave me a chance to play with some lighting effects and learn from critiques.
It's the good part of BT.
Maybe we'll meet some dayso, here's the final I have.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin
Thank you for the kind words.
This thread has given me lots to work with.
I am not a natural carpenter. I have to work at it.
Some of my customers think I am a master but I know the truth.
I have so much to learn and I have been on my own since 1986.
When I come to BT I feel like a kid around adults.
So many of you have the chance to work on nice homes with great design elements.
A large part of the work around here is vinyl siding and aluminum fascia covers. Get it done fast and cheap.
I would never have nknow the difference between fiberglass columns and fiber-cemnet columns. I am grateful to Jeff for the comments about column spacing too.
Anyway just rambling. Time to get back to figuring what we are going to do next week.
Maybe we'll meet some day
I look forward to it.
Rich
Nice post, Rich - our pleasure.
Jeff
Jeff
Again. Thanks for the input.
Rich
what about a taller base of the same brick on each corner, something like this? with a shortened column on top.
Edited 3/13/2009 10:11 pm ET by MgGuy
You know the center column is a distraction both for driver and looks.
What if you put a large corbel with planter hanger there.It could be wood or a wrought iron look.
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Piffin
I'll see if i can swing by there today and get some pics from farther back.
After your post I went into Picasa and figured out how to put text on the picture, but not arrows yet.
From rake to rake the roof is 32'. The garage doors are 9'x7'. The columns are just under 8'. The cross member is a 4x4 and the tails are 2"x 8"
But I will get a better picture later today.
Rich
garage door placement and height of wall to soffit - pitch of roof....soffit overhang, fascia size
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Piffin
OK.
Rich
I only read a few of the replies but what I'd is use fiber cement columns - I get them for about $140 for 8"x10' or $155 for 10"x10'. Use smooth not fluted as I think smooth would go better with the rest of the house. If you only needed the columns to be 8' or a little more in height you could build some plinth blocks (bases) that would give a bit more mass to the bottom and I'd think would look good. BTW - fiber cement columns are trimmed to length with a circular saw. Then the plinth and capitol ( base and cap) are slid down/up in place to cover the ends. The ones I get come with a plastic cap and base so no rot issues there.
For the fascia and rafter tails I'd use KDAT lumber - re-dired PT lumber - although I have no idea if it is available in Iowa. Another possibility for the rafter tails would be the new micronized PT lumber - again, I have no idea it that is available there. Here they started selling it at HD. These products hold paint really well. Where you live do you get SYP PT lumber of that nasty looking incised stuff?
Matt
My yard rep sent me the HB&G link. He quoted me $179 with base and cap. ($140 column only).
Where you live do you get SYP PT lumber of that nasty looking incised stuff?
I don't know what you mean by incised.
Our PT is of the roughest grade. Guarenteed to warp, split and twist with in 60 days or less. I think the wholesaler stores it on the bottom of the lake to make sure it has maiximum water content.
I had a carpenter friend go down to Katrina clean up and he said they had the nicest PT down there. Ours looked like their rejects sent north.
Thanks for the input.
Rich
What species of wood do you thnk your PT lumber is?
Matt
Southern yellow Pine would be my best guess.
Rich