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Discussion Forum

Garage Shop A/C options

bmyyou | Posted in General Discussion on May 7, 2009 01:49am

Is it possible to use a low-profile a/c like those sold for RV’s for cooling a detached garage workshop? The garage is enclosed by drywall and the roof is gabled and vented, however I can’t have a window unit due to deed restrictions (windows face the street) and I don’t want to install a split system.
I am also thinking of either a portable a/c or a window unit that will slide in and out of the window during use, but I’m not sure how to set that up.
Thanks,
Brian

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Replies

  1. seeyou | May 07, 2009 04:10am | #1

    View Image

    http://www.quittintime.com/      View Image        

  2. alwaysoverbudget | May 07, 2009 04:32am | #2

    how big is your shop and where are you located?if your in alaska the coleman will probably be fine.lol  i think they are about a 1/2 ton.

    if i lived where i couldn't have a window air hanging out the window,heres what i would try.

     i would mount the unit in the window with the back about a 1/2" from the storm window or glass. when i go ut to the shop,raise the window and turn the air on. how can they say anything,it is totally "inside"the building. plus the added plus is during the winter with the window shut  i won't leak cold air.

    maybe look at a heat pump style window unit so you can get a little heat also.

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
    MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
    DUCT TAPE.

    1. bmyyou | May 07, 2009 04:40am | #3

      I'm in the Houston, Texas area and have an attached garage that is about 400 sq. ft. I was thinking of trying that for a window unit, but I believe if the unit is just placed into the window sill that some of the hot air from the back that is still inside the garage will be venting back into the garage. And wouldn't that defeat the purpose of the cooling cycle?

      1. alwaysoverbudget | May 07, 2009 04:45am | #4

        ok idea 2 ,set it in the attic,backed up tight to a grille in the gable,people will think it's ventalation. then on the front side build up a 90 degree duct cdown thru the ceiling.

        if your in huston,good luck,might take a 4 ton unit to cool 400 sq ft!no way is a little coleman going to do it.YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.

        1. bmyyou | May 07, 2009 04:59am | #5

          I was afraid you would say it would take a big unit to cool the shop. I think I'll just sell the house and move, or ask my wife if I can move my tools indoors; who needs a master bedroom, anyway :)

  3. ponytl | May 07, 2009 05:03am | #6

    don't put the window unit in the window.... then it ain't a window unit... now is it?

    it takes 2 roof top units to cool my well insulated white roof 300sf motorhome  so.. that'd be spit'n in the wind...

    if you can cut a hole in your garage wall somewhere (assume'n it ain't brick...not that THAT should stop you)  just place it low out of view...

    if it's an attached garage and you have central ducted A/C  why not just tap onto it with an 8" duct... no return air out of the garage... put a damper on it you can close when you aren't in the garage... you unit might work a little harder but chances are you could cool it all you needed  for  the cost of a boot some 8" flex duct and a damper

    p:)

  4. danski0224 | May 07, 2009 06:34am | #7

    Two words: Mini split.

    Quiet, energy efficient.

    Use Slim Duct to hide the lineset.

  5. bd | May 08, 2009 01:40am | #8

    I've got one of those roll-around portable units that uses a flex hose to vent to the outside. They aren't that expensive. Maybe hard to find in some places, but a lot cheaper than a split unit. Probably limited to about 10k BTU in the residential models. If you use it in a shop, you'd probably need to add some sort of extra filtration, e.g., tape a high efficiency filter to the intake or something. Cost was more than a window unit with similar output, but it might meet your needs.

  6. JTC1 | May 08, 2009 02:08am | #9

    Could you install a "window unit" into an opening in a wall other than the wall-which-faces-the-street wall?

    Not install a new window, just cut a hole, frame, seal and trim the hole to accept a window unit? Or, is that violating the deed restrictions also.

    I work a lot in a small town with a historic district - essentially, if something is not visible from the street - it's OK with the Historic Commission, provided the modification / installation meets the building code.

    Jim 

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
  7. User avater
    ToolFreakBlue | May 08, 2009 04:19am | #10

    What about a PTAC unit like you see in cheap/balcony style hotels. Essentially operates as a window unit but thru the wall.

    Or those portable units (as mentioned) with outlets that look like the robot from "Lost in Space".

    This link looks to explain your options
    http://www.ajmadison.com/phpdocs/ajtest/a_c_buying_guide.php

    Side Note: Is AJMadison to appliances and Crutchfield is to electronics?

    TFB (Bill)

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