GARAGE WIRING – best practices
GARAGE WIRING – best practices
We moved enough stuff today to see most of the Black Hole that is the garage on this remodel. Two car garage – done in 58.
Romex crawling over the various surfaces and over vs. thru the top plates. Money saved by not using clamps when cables entered boxes and – a thing of wonder – a 2x running board for romex tacked across the window, on a slant. We just stood there in wonder and amazement. This is the Hacker Zone.
I have a fairly free hand in laying out the garage wiring and would like to hear what works for you.
We can go beyond the one outlet, one light, one switch level. Just ran a wall of outlets down one side today. Plan on four 4′, 2 tube flur. lights – two per side on the ceilling. Or???
The FAU and laundry space will be in here, so we have those circuits to install. What is the best practice when you have gas dryer, elect. washer, gas FAU in garage space, which is GFCI country?
Do the outlets for dryer, washer have to be on GFCI circuits. If not, I assume single recpt. for each.
The ToolBear
“Never met a man who couldn’t teach me something.” Anon.
Replies
Basic requirement in garages is that all 120 volt receptacles in the garage has to be GFCI protected, except ones normally out of reach (such as on the ceiling for GDO's) and those that serve appliances that are normally fixed in place.
The washer, as such, does not require a GFCI. And the washer and dryer would "use up" the 120 v duplex on the washer circuit so it does not need a GFCI as appliance no normally moved. That is unless there is a utility sink within 6ft and then it would require GFCI protect.
But my guess is that in a garage it would be simpler to use a GFCI and not arge about it. If it was a refigerator or freezer then I would fight for the exception.
In most place the FAU is hardwired and thus does not need GFCI protection.
What I would like to see in a garage is a receptacle on the end in front of each car. And another midway on each wall about where the car doors are. They make for close connections for a battery charger or service light for around the engin and one close for vacumming out the car.
And at least one exterior receptacle by the door and better one on each side.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Just for the sake of 'stirring the pot' some.... Why limit yourself to wall mounted receptacles? Maybe more use would be made of 'drop cords' from above? What I picture are steel boxes, connected with pipe, mounted on the ceiling joists. Dropping straight from each box is a single cord. This cord is supported at the box by a rubber-grommeted strain relieving connector, and ends in a cord cap. Sort of like a short end from an extension cord, in appearance.
Boxes would be spaced 2 ft off the walls, and the cords would end maybe 76" above the floor ... you're able to reach them easily, but not bang your head on them. You might even do another row down the center of the garage.
Of course, with this arrangement, GFI protection would most likely be provided by a GFI breaker. Such an arrangement would have the outlets always readily accessible, and you would connect most things using an extension cord, anyway.
I went with the ceiling receptacle idea in the garage and used the spring retractable extension cords. I like it a lot. Pull out the extension cord, plug in the shop vac to clean out the truck and when I'm done, let the cord get pulled back into the reel.
Thanks for the insight on how to wire the garage. I was only going to do that in the Workshop, but I will include the garage, too.
Thanks, Woodnuck
Hey, my garage IS my workshop.(I guess that should be my FORMER garage?)George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service
My 36' x 36.5' garage is too small now. So that is why I am adding a 19' x 33.5' workshop onto the 28' x 58' garage in the new house we are building. The new garage is about 12' tall now rather than 10' in the old one.
Hopefully we can park in the new garage, because we haven't parked in this one since it was built 8 years ago. Had to back the vehicles down the driveway sometimes just to make more room for the new workshop pieces I keep making.
It's tough explaining to my wife that the work I have been doing in the garage was not her dresser.
Woodnuck
What I picture are steel boxes, connected with pipe, mounted on the ceiling joists. Dropping straight from each box is a single cord. This cord is supported at the box by a rubber-grommeted strain relieving connector, and ends in a cord cap. Sort of like a short end from an extension cord, in appearance.
Got these in our shop. The real takeup reels for power and air. Work fine. Be we be simple craftsmen. This guy is a suit. Even wears one. With him blowing the wall out 24", there is just room for the Lincoln.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Basic requirement in garages is that all 120 volt receptacles in the garage has to be GFCI protected,
I will have at least one GFCI circuit for the outlets. I'd like two - one down each wall. We have mounted four outlets on the wall we could reach. Move the lumber pile tomorrow and large cabinets, etc. and get the other wall.
If there is talk of a shop, I'd run 240 down both walls with at least 30A at the garage door ends. Not the case here.
The washer, as such, does not require a GFCI. And the washer and dryer would "use up" the 120 v duplex on the washer circuit so it does not need a GFCI as appliance no normally moved.
I plan to split the dedicated laundry room circuit into two single device outlets for washer, gas dryer. That way should not engender any arguments. No sink. Yet. Every time the owner sees the plans, more changes. The whole bearing wall of the garage is moving 24" into the garage space. That will be fun.
But my guess is that in a garage it would be simpler to use a GFCI and not arge about it.
Yes, I think the trend in the code is to expand the GFCI space. We are using GFCI breakers on this job.
What I would like to see in a garage is a receptacle on the end in front of each car.
There is a thought. Let's see what they leave me after moving the wall.
And another midway on each wall about where the car doors are.
That will happen.
They make for close connections for a battery charger or service light for around the engin and one close for vacumming out the car.
And at least one exterior receptacle by the door and better one on each side.
It's a single door with brick pillars left, right. A new courtyard wall of CMUs will go to the left side. I can put one in the stucco on the right side around the corner to serve the work in the drive.
OUTLETS IN STUCCO - I was over at Walters looking for a box with a face flange for mounting my WP outlets in these stucco walls. No luck. Thought Arlington made one. They make them for siding, etc. Stucco - not in a recp. box. We checked the catalog. Any tips on getting a bulletproof waterproof box install?
.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
With all those power needs, I would:
1. Install a Sub-Panel
2. Run 1 inch Flex for all around perimeter of the garage and drop duplex recepticals per code, about 1 every 8 feet. I think you can run the dryer in the same flex, but obviously a separate wire(s).
3. Install fluorescents probably two, 2-light fixtures switched.
Regards,
Scooter
"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
1. Install a Sub-Panel
2. Run 1 inch Flex for all around perimeter of the garage and drop duplex recepticals per code, about 1 every 8 feet. I think you can run the dryer in the same flex, but obviously a separate wire(s).
3. Install fluorescents probably two, 2-light fixtures switched
They never let me do it, but I like to run 3/4 EMT around the top of the garage, over the drywall and drop J boxes here and there. Paint the stuff red and make a fashion statement. Of course, I like surface mounted EMT and manly steel J boxes. My garage has a string out outlets down one wall 2' OC
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
my garage is 100 amp. I have 22 receptcles and (9) 2 bulb 4 footer and (2) 4 bulb 4 footer. also (4) 240 outlets. I need a couple hanging cord outlets too
88391.6 in reply to 88391.1
my garage is 100 amp. I have 22 receptcles and (9) 2 bulb 4 footer and (2) 4 bulb 4 footer. also (4) 240 outlets. I need a couple hanging cord outlets too
Now, that's my kind of garage. Sadly, I don't have one. Condo. Power? If I turn on the saw, the lights go into orange. I can't use a double hot dog compressor, etc.
If they leave me alone, I wire the repct. in 10g against voltage drop and every other one is on the other circuit. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
I'm sure you could add another circuit if you dug through some drywall to the next living space ;)Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I'm sure you could add another circuit if you dug through some drywall to the next living space ;)
I think we might just do that. In fact, to get the lumber pile out of the garage so I could wire one side, we knocked a hole in the fire wall and passed sticks. Then we drilled more holes where the old proto romex feed comes in.
In our last episode, the garage wall was to move out 24". In today's episode part of it is coming in. Plumber was by and snapped all sorts of trench lines. Hey, none in the garage!
I am not going to set a single can light until I know what the shape of the room is. Four bathrooms in under 2K SF is two potties too many. I do with two in something 25 x 52'The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Another thing to consider is work zones. My garage is also my workshop... but it is also the laundry area, storage area, and secondary food storage area. I don't need the whole place lit to do laundry, nor look in the pantry... both of this is near the door to the house. I have a seperate switch to light up the main workspace of the garage. Once I get them set up, I'll have a fourway switch for the lights on the outside of the garage - one switch on the doorway, one inside the house next to the other front light, and one just inside the big garage door.
With power outlets, I'd say at least two circuits run so they are every other outlet. Give yourself at least one 220 outlet for arc welding or air compressor. While you are running conduit, consider running air line hose.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
keep your lights and recapticle seperate