FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

gas line – acceptable drop after 15 min

Donjr | Posted in General Discussion on October 21, 2007 02:05am

gas line test – acceptable pressure drop

Installed the gas system (for low pressure – 1/2 lb gas service). Pressurized to minimum of 10 lbs pressure. System holds pressure with no acceptable drop for the required 15 minutes, but loses pressure at about 1lb/hour. Is it standard practice for professional installers to search for leaks in a case like this and tighten the system until it holds the test pressure indefinitely?

Thanks

 

 

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. User avater
    EricPaulson | Oct 21, 2007 02:35am | #1

    IIRC inpectors here wath the pressure go in then tag it with a date and time and come back in 24 hours to check pressure.

    Not sure what is acceptable.

    Sounds like you've got a leak.

    yourcontractor@aol.com

     

     

     

     

    1. Donjr | Oct 21, 2007 05:13am | #4

      Around here.... inspectors look at guage when they show up, walk the job and check the pressure when they leave. This will likely pass the inspection..... but safety first!

      Agree on the leak assessment. Been looking for them with 15 lbs in system and the specialized glow in the dark leak detector. Haven't found anything immediately obvious, but not entirely pleased with the specialized leak detector....tends to have tiny bubbles out of the container which take a long time to dissipate when the fluid runs around the fittings. May try dish detergent. Any other inspired suggestions?  

       

      Thanks

       

      1. Jim_Allen | Oct 21, 2007 06:06am | #6

        Call the gas company and report a leak. They'll bring some specialized sniffers and track down the leak.

        You might get charged for it, or maybe not.

        Understand that I have no clue as to if this is a good idea or not. I know nothing about plumbing but my wife is paranoid about gas leaks and everytime she calls, they come running.

        jimfka (formerly known as) blue

        1. davidmeiland | Oct 21, 2007 07:17am | #7

          He doesn't have any gas in the system.

          I would pump it up to 100 PSI and use windex on every joint until I found the bubbles. Where I am working we have a test on the radiant tubing and another test on the underslab water lines. Gauges on both that I look at almost every day, and no drop in two months.

    2. Donjr | Nov 02, 2007 07:18am | #30

      agree zero pressure drop should be standard. Interestinglyu enough the licensed HVAC contractor turned system over meeting the 10# for 15 minutes criteria, but certaintly not meeting the no pressure drop criteria. found leaks. tightened. holding 15# for five + days.

  2. plumbbill | Oct 21, 2007 04:30am | #2

    Are you testing against valves or are the valves open & capped on the other side?

    “The Hand of providence has been so conspicuous in all this, that he must be worse than an infidel that lacks faith, and more than wicked, that has not gratitude enough to acknowledge his obligations.” —George Washington

    1. Donjr | Oct 21, 2007 05:04am | #3

      Valves are open and capped on down stream side.  Appliances and flex lines are out of the system. 

      Another question..... you prefer the specialized gas leak detector or dish detergent for  chasing leaks?  

      Thanks

      1. plumbbill | Oct 21, 2007 05:34am | #5

        I do large new instalations, snoop¯ & other brands tend to be a bit spendy, so we use use dish detergent & a lot of it ;-)

        If the gauge can handle it pump it to the max--- that helps find leaks a bit faster.

        Common place for small leaks is the packing bonnet on the valves.

        “The Hand of providence has been so conspicuous in all this, that he must be worse than an infidel that lacks faith, and more than wicked, that has not gratitude enough to acknowledge his obligations.” —George Washington

  3. roger g | Oct 21, 2007 07:23am | #8

    Up here in Canada it is 15 pounds for a minimum of 15 minutes. You probably mean you have a 1/4 pound system so pumping a system up to 15 pounds means it being tested at 60 times normal operating pressure.

     That's good enough for me. If the powers to be wanted an indefinite period of time without leaks, like refrigeration, they would have demanded it. Nowhere in the code does it say anything about being leak free.

      I used to leave the guage on while I cleaned up or painted the lines which was longer than 15 minutes but on the tag I always put 15 pounds for 15 minutes. I was actually one of the few guys in our team that even had a guage and used it all the time. Some guys used guages that were wrong (code specifies size) and wouldn't read a small leak in 15 hours let alone 15 minutes. Maybe your guage is also the wrong guage.

     You have to remember that natural gas, or propane for that matter needs  a specific ratio of oxygen and gas to be combustible and the range is very small.  Pretty safe in fact though my wife doesn't agree with the physics. So what I'm saying is that you could have a small leak of gas and  never reach the oxygen/gas ratio to ever explode. I'm sure when "they" wrote the Canadian Gas Code this was all factored in.

    So, if the local inspector wants 24 hours and it's okay for 24 hours what happens if you leave the guage on for 48 hours and find a leak? Would you accept that? What would you accept?

    Now I have a pet peave with inspectors of anything when they try to make rules as they seem fit and are not covered by regulations. If a local district decides it wants a 24 watch on gas line guages then make a local ammendment and send copies to all concerned. I accept that and applaud it but my hackles rise when I hear the local inspector say "I want such and such". If it is as good as he says it it is, he should write it down and it becomes a"local jurisdiction issue" and not a whim.

     In a former life I was told I could only enforce the law, not make them up as I go.

     

    roger


    Edited 10/21/2007 12:24 am ET by roger g



    Edited 10/21/2007 12:25 am ET by roger g

    1. renosteinke | Oct 21, 2007 07:07pm | #9

      Around here, the line is expected to hold pressure overnight. That is, the line is pressurized, inspection is called for, and the inspector comes the next day. This can be a challenge, as our typical 30-40 degree daily temperature swing can influence the test, even without a leak! Off the top, I would say you have a leak. Find it and fix it. OR- look at it this way: We don't test to please the inspector. We test to check our work. The inspector is only there as a fall-back. Fooling the inspector will not fix the problem.

      Edited 10/21/2007 12:09 pm ET by renosteinke

      1. roger g | Oct 21, 2007 08:17pm | #11

        I think you must be talking to someone else. I don't try to fool any inspectors. I used to inspect.

        roger

        1. renosteinke | Oct 21, 2007 11:13pm | #12

          Sorry, Roger ... my comments were not aimed at anyone personally ... I guess I forgot to click "all" .... drat that software! I was responding, though, to the implied way to finesse the test: pump it up just before the inspector arrives ... then hope he leaves before the drop can be noticed!

          1. roger g | Oct 22, 2007 02:12am | #13

            No problem. I find that the gauges most people use to check pressure is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too small and is capable of higher pressure. Off the top of my head our gauges must be something like 3 inches in diameter and I believe register only up to 30 psi. With this type of gauge you can see if you are loosing an ounce of pressure or something very near that so in 15 minutes or so you will notice on the gauge whether you have a small leak. Gauges which are small and are rated a much higher psi will not register a leak until you have leaked alot. I've tried several gauges on a system which leaked just for study purposes and found all what I have mentioned above to be true.

             So in effect, if you use the wrong gauge, keep it hooked up a long time.

            By pumping a system up to 100 psi to find a stubborn leak you must first remove the 30 psi gauge and the check to see if the valves are capable of taking that pressure. Most won't and you will find leakes that weren't there before in fact you might have created them. With a stubborn leak try ramping up the pressure and keep testing. Once I had a leak which I thought was buried behind a wall so I cranked up the compressor to about 130psi until I heard the hissing behind the wall.

             

            roger 

          2. davidmeiland | Oct 22, 2007 02:38am | #14

            I have tested black pipe gas lines to 100 PSI and they easily hold it. That's without any valves or appliances connected. The procedure I have always used and seen others use is to rough in the gas lines and test them as above. Around here the propane company will come out and do a low-pressure test after the valves, flex connectors, and appliances are installed.

          3. roger g | Oct 22, 2007 04:16am | #15

            I've seen alot of people do alot of different things and think it right. What is right is what is written in the code. Remember, if the powers to-be wanted 100psi, it would be written, wouldn't it. Granted they might give a minimum pressure test pressure required but at 100psi on propane that is 200 times operating pressure. A little extreme, I would think. We don't test anything in building whether it's plumbing, electrical, trusses, beams etc etc 200 times fudge factor. Because alot of gas fitters are plumbers (I'm not) they are used to pressure testing plumbing up to 100 psi(nice round figure) which is only about twice operating pressure. Even boiler systems run at a minimum of 12 psi so at 100 psi is 8 times operating pressure. 200 times doesn't make a whole lot of sense does it.

             Sure if it makes people feel warm and fuzzy testing pressure lines at 100psi, that's fine but code it aint(at least any code I've seen). I would ask whoever is testing the piping about what the code  says. It should be something he knows instantly and not something he "has to look up". If a person doesn't know that I would be suspect at other stuff they don't know. Not that a person has to know everything by heart but they should that one.:)

            With natural gas, after evrything is hooked up, we would turn on the gas and without anything on we would do what is called a dial test. We would mark one of the meter dials (the main gas meter) and wait about 30 minutes to see if it moved.

            With propane we never had a meter to do a dial test so we just soaped up and checked all connections.Just like the installer might have done when they pressure tested the system and were looking for a leak. I guess if your guys are doing a low pressure test I would think they would be disconnecting from the tank and hook up a pressure meter and pump it up to 1/2 psi and watch. Much more than that they run the risk of rupturing the diaphrams in all the gas valves.

             I've seen guys pressure test systems at a high pressure and they think by shutting off the shut off valves would do but found the valve had in fact leaked and destroyed the gas valve in the appliance.The appliance valve/reg is only designed  for a certain incoming pressure. 

            For example in natural gas the operating pressure in the lines is supposed to be about 7 inches of water column (1/4 pound) and that is what's going into the appliance but that pressure is regulated down again to 3.5 inches of water column which is what comes out to make the flame. ( Damn, I haven't thought about this stuff in years. I hope I'm right:) )

             

            roger

          4. rich1 | Oct 22, 2007 06:28am | #19

            B149 has changed.

            for gas pressure up and including 2psi 15# for 15 min or 15# for 60 min if length of pipe is over 200'

            for gas pressure over 2 psi up to 33 psi 50 # for 60 min or 50 # for 180 min if length of pipe is over 200'

            for gas pressure over 33 psi 1.5 times the max operating pressure for 180 min.

            all welded pipe is the greater of 50 psi or 1.5 times max for 180 min.

             

            Min diameter of gauge is supposed to be 3" and the range shall exceed the the test pressure by at least 15% but not more than 300% and the increments shall be either 2 psi or 2% of the mas dial reading, whichever is less.

             

            B149 is Canadian code.

            Note (1) says pressures and times are minimum requirements, Circumstances can require more. 

          5. roger g | Oct 22, 2007 06:49am | #20

            I know it's always changing but at a glance that part hasn't changed. Even the part about the test pressure being the minimum and circumstances could require higher test pressures. What circumstances? Not that I'm adverse to a higher test pressure but off the top of my head I can't think of a circumstance other than trying to find a pesky leak. Once found and fixed the test pressure should be back to 15 pounds 15 minutes or close to that. I would pump it up and wherever the needle stopped whether at 15 or 22 pounds I would mark the gauge. My gauge was quite big with many increments so I knew quickly if I had a leak.

             What I would try to impress on newby's was to know the code and if you wanted to vary from that it was up to them but KNOW THE CODE!!!!

             I wonder how many gasfitters even have a code let alone always carry it with them? I was always looking things up.

             

            roger

             

            roger

          6. rich1 | Oct 22, 2007 07:03am | #21

            We just had a meter install refused because the gauge pressure was less than 15#.

             It sat overnight and the temps dropped.  So now, 25+.

          7. roger g | Oct 22, 2007 04:44pm | #22

            Just for curiosity, where are you in Canada? I've done gas fitting in 3 provinces and I've never had to leave a test gauge on a piping for an inspector to see. I'm the one with the licence. I'm the one that did the job. I'm the one who pressure tests it. I'm the one who is responsible.

              I have heard, though never seen, where a gas inspector has arrived on scene ( extremely rare) and asked the fitter to pressure test the system because that particular fitter has been noted on their file for having leaks.

            Maybe where you are it is like that or maybe things have changed more to be like what I hear plumbing inspections are.

             

            roger

          8. rich1 | Oct 22, 2007 05:20pm | #23

            Moose Jaw.  It's a provincial thing.  We have to put a tag on the gas line showing date, type of test and sign it.  Then the utility checks the test and signs the tag. No tag, no meter. 

            Keeps everyone honest.

            We also have a red tag program where the utility or contractor can tag and shut down a system for a dangerous situation.

          9. roger g | Oct 22, 2007 06:03pm | #24

             The only thing I see different from Ontario is that you leave the gauge on for the inspector. Which in my mind defeats the 15 pound 15 minute thing. When we did inspections we were never really sure when we would get to a site so a gauge could be on for days. If the gauge had dropped in 2 days but hadn't dropped in 15 minutes, 15 hours or 36 hours it should still pass code.

            Here in BC (Island) they don't tag anymore or at least it was a on-a-again off-again thing. Very rarely do installs ever get inspected by an inspector of any kind and the gas fitting shows it. I believe the Gas Board is trying to rectify that situation but has a very long way to go.

             

            roger

          10. sungod | Oct 23, 2007 12:44am | #25

            My experience shows that if the gauge goes down to around five lbs., then the shut off valve is leaking. If the gauge goes down to zero, someone over-tighten the fitting and split it.

          11. roger g | Oct 23, 2007 02:53am | #26

            If I remember correctly we aren't allowed to pressure test a system with any valves on. We do it sometimes but I seem to think we are not supposed to.

             I have leaks from everything including someone used a hacksaw to sabotage my job or a leak inside my own pressure dial. and THAT was a pain to find.

             

            roger

          12. plumbbill | Oct 23, 2007 03:12am | #27

            Moose Jaw eh

            My sister & B I L live in Saskatoon.

            “The Hand of providence has been so conspicuous in all this, that he must be worse than an infidel that lacks faith, and more than wicked, that has not gratitude enough to acknowledge his obligations.” —George Washington

          13. JohnSprungX | Oct 23, 2007 03:13am | #28

            > I have tested black pipe gas lines to 100 PSI and they easily hold it.

            Same here.  If the system is right, it'll hold just fine overnight.  It's done with caps where the appliances will go, and the caps just stay there until after drywall and paint.  Caps are easier for the other trades to work around, and they don't eff up the valves. 

            100 psi is nearly 7 times the code minimum and 200 times the working pressure, mainly because the working pressure is so extremely low.  It would be damn difficult to work with some sort of tubing system that would hold 15 psi, but rupture at 20 - 30.  Black pipe is massive overkill for gas systems because there's no economic advantage to developing a lighter duty system.

             

            -- J.S.

             

          14. plumbbill | Oct 22, 2007 04:38am | #16

            When testing gas our inspectors want a pressure gauge that's double the test pressure.

            Standard low pressure system ( 6 to 12" on the water column) we test @ 15 psi with a 30lb gauge.

            2 to 5 pound systems we test @ 60psi using a 120 pound gauge.

            40 to 80 pound systems we test @ 150 psi using a 300 pound gauge.

            Having said that I have used a 100 pound gauge on a low pressure system, the inspector wanted the system tested at 50psi cause of the gauge.

            “The Hand of providence has been so conspicuous in all this, that he must be worse than an infidel that lacks faith, and more than wicked, that has not gratitude enough to acknowledge his obligations.” —George Washington

          15. roger g | Oct 22, 2007 05:23am | #17

            That seems to be roughly what our code says also. Not sure about the high operating pressures above 5 pounds though. As I said before if you use a gauge like a 100 psi one, the increments are  5 pound increments or 2 pound at best.. How could you possibly tell if you lost 1 or 2 ounces in 15 minutes or an hour? You would have a leak and wouldn't know it? A 30 psi gauge might have the same number of increments as a 100psi gauge but might be 1/4 pound increments or less so a leak would be much easier detected. Also a big dial, as per our code, also makes any leak more easily detectable.

             What does your code say about pressure testing and gauges? The code, not what the inspector wants.

            roger

          16. plumbbill | Oct 22, 2007 06:27am | #18

            Code states for low pressure system to be not less than 10 psi, gauge to be in 1/10 increments.

            “The Hand of providence has been so conspicuous in all this, that he must be worse than an infidel that lacks faith, and more than wicked, that has not gratitude enough to acknowledge his obligations.” —George Washington

    2. ktkcad | Apr 26, 2019 07:27pm | #35

      (IRC) R104.1 allows the building official and their designees to expand on the definition of the code's requirements. They just can't wave or reduce the written interpretation. Then local legislators can also muck it up more. WA state says they can't change the state's interpretation unless they are Seattle or can show unusual circumstances. One city (Redmond) used the last one to enforce residential fire sprinklers - their unusual circumstance: because their fire department was so bad at responding! Know your local querks (laws, codes and officials)!

  4. Shacko | Oct 21, 2007 07:13pm | #10

    ....gas line test - acceptable pressure drop.... NONE!

    1. Donjr | Nov 02, 2007 07:14am | #29

      my thought also. Once I found the gas leak detector that I liked.... liquid ... and found the nice big bubbles and twisted a few fittings tighter...things are good as evienced by holding 15# for five+  days 

      1. Shacko | Nov 02, 2007 07:52pm | #31

        I use Palmolive, great suds, in the winter I mix with windshield fluid, keeps it from freezing on the pipe. I also use a brush, not a spray. Have a good one.

  5. gascertificatesau | Apr 26, 2019 10:47am | #32

    A test for gas leaks would only confirm the integrity of the installation. I would say.

  6. User avater
    Mike_Mahan | Apr 26, 2019 10:53am | #33

    I wonder what an acceptable drop after 12 years is.

    1. ktkcad | Apr 26, 2019 07:12pm | #34

      not having blown up?!

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Podcast Segment: Repairing an Old Home While Maintaining Its Integrity

Learn about different approaches to making updates and repairs to older homes with historic charm.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 684: Masonry Heaters, Whole-House Ventilation, and Porch Flooring
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Repairing an Old Home While Maintaining Its Integrity
  • Tools and Gear for the Moms Who Get it Done
  • An Easier Method for Mitered Head Casings

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 81%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data