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Gas piping–drip legs ?????

Waters | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 17, 2008 03:16am

So years ago I did my own piping for several gas appliances in my own house.  3/4″ black pipe, screwed together, t’s elbows, plugs, gas dope, gas shutoffs, flex connectors and

DRIP LEGS.

I remember the debris trap required ‘near’ the appliance.

Last summer I was ‘carping’ on a job and I watched the plumbers put in gas fireplace and gas water heater.

Their inspection was denied because the drip leg was not ‘as close to the appliance as possible’ or ‘downstream of the shutoff.’  THis didn’t make much sense to me.  I put drip legs in the last turn up to the appliance–where then you had a shutoff and a flex connector–and that passed back then…

Is this the way it is near you? 

‘Downstream of the shutoff’ would mean that you’d have to have a horizontal run somewhere just before the flex connector, or just before screwing into the appliance.  WHat if you want to come straight up into the appliance???

And is there a better debris trap than a ‘T’ a nipple and an end cap?  It just seems like a whole bunch o’ junk cobbled together in a heap right under your nice range, or tankless water heater…

Which is what I’m about to do now, again, in my own current house.

Any suggestions for better gas piping for me?

Thanks!

“Research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I’m doing…”

 

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Replies

  1. 802Mike | Mar 17, 2008 03:38am | #1

    I put the drip leatin the end of the last horizontal pipe before turning vertical to the appliance, if going up.  If down droping, like to a boiler, it's at the bottom of the drop. I still use black iron pipe.

  2. Riversong | Mar 17, 2008 03:46am | #2

    I believe the code reads "as close to the appliance as practicable".  And the shutoff would go upstream (before) the sediment trap, so you can shut off the line and clean out the trap if necessary. 

    A trap is required only for gas appliances that turn on automatically (not gas lights, for instance, or a barbecue).

     
    Riversong HouseWright
    Design *  * Build *  * Renovate *  * Consult
    Solar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes



    Edited 3/16/2008 8:47 pm ET by Riversong

    1. Waters | Mar 17, 2008 04:00am | #3

      Ok, so I've already got it two ways!

      I found this thread with similar results 43595.5

      I think I trust Riversong--despite his radical threads in the 'Tavern.'

      ;-)

      I'd rather put the drip legs down under the house before coming up though--it just seems so much cleaner--there's a change in direction there anyway.  THen up, shutoff, flex, appliance.  I don't even need the flex for the water heater.

      Any more want to chime in?"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."

       

      1. User avater
        popawheelie | Mar 17, 2008 04:32am | #4

        I like what riversong said about being able to turn it off to clean it out. Do you need to clean them out? I thought they were just for small debrise that travels down the pipe.

  3. ponytl | Mar 17, 2008 05:00am | #5

    not required here anymore... last i heard anyway...  seems our gas supply is all piped thru plastic pipes and they say it's so clean there have all but never been issues... still see a few out there... but it's rare

    p

    1. wane | Mar 17, 2008 03:15pm | #6

      anyone ever clean out a drip leg?? ..

      1. CCI | Mar 17, 2008 06:48pm | #7

        Actually I just had a water heater replaced and the piping had to be move so the drip leg was removed.  It had been in place for 12 years and when I took the cap off it was perfectly clean and not a spot of rust or debris.  Did I get lucky or is it not needed?

        I did put it back,however - just in case.

        In my situation it came down to not hurting anything by having it and for what a typical plumber charges for a typical job another couple of bucks for a tee and a cap and a 6" length of pipe won't make or break the profit margin for the job.

        1. Waters | Mar 17, 2008 07:18pm | #8

          Ok,

          It's settled.

          I called the BI today and he says DRIP LEGS REQUIRED AND MUST BE DOWNSTREAM OF THE SHUTOFF VALVE.

          I didn't press or ? him.

          idon'tlikeit... but I'll just put a 'T' right up on the fixture, drop the leg straight down, then come into the side of the 'T' with the gas and there it is--as close to the appliance as possible, and downstream of the shutoff.

          Right tho--then the drip assy is NOT in the pressure test.  THis seems wrong."Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."

           

          1. Riversong | Mar 17, 2008 11:11pm | #9

            then the drip assy is NOT in the pressure test

            No, and neither is the connection to fixture. You can still spray a little soapy water on it after you turn on the shutoff. 

            Riversong HouseWright

            Design *  * Build *  * Renovate *  * ConsultSolar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes

  4. roger g | Mar 18, 2008 12:41am | #10

    A lot depends on your local code. Read the code.

     Up here in Canada there are places where a drip leg/dirt pocket are not required and a fireplace is one of them. Ranges and dryers also.

     Drip legs are specific is size, not just any length you have kicking around. Also lots of guys use them in places which shows they never read the gas code.

    I have never EVER seen anything in a drip leg.

     

    roger

     

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