Hello all,
I am contemplating the addition of beadboard wainsoting to a small room (10′ x 10) that will serve as the nursery for our first-born. I am trying to get some opinions as to the best approach to tackle the job. The wainscoting will be painted, and I am leaning towards T&G strips of roughly 3″ in width. I have the capabilities of milling the material on site, and was considering either MDF or perhaps poplar.First question…any problems with MDF? Perhaps more importantly, what is the best method of attachment of the T&G strips. The chair-rail and baseboard nail to the studs, but how to best attach the strips. 1. floating 2. adhesive 3.remove drywall and install either nailers (between studs) or plywood that is the same thickness and the drywall. Any others.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
Dave
Replies
Do they have the pre-milled stuff in what you are looking for? I believe that there is a special covering put on MDF trim pieces that makes it paint up well. You don't mill it of course.
You can buy MDF sheets already milled that solve half those problems and keep a ton of dust out of your property.
I like to use Azek beaded board for this. It paints real fine and is only 7/16" thick so it doesn't protrude much. Have also used Fir premilled in stiock item, but wood should be prepainted to eliminate shadows telegraphing if it shrinks. the Azek is more stable.
Whether to do cut down in the SR and install nailing blocks or to glue and pin over the SR is one of dimension for me more, for instance in the detailing of how the base and chairrail need to look for you. Windsor One has good choices in this regard too, and a preprimed beaded board. This decision can also be partly baed on room size, in that a bathroomoften has critical dimensions wheere losing an inch or so could be rough fittin all the fixtures back in.
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Have you thought about a wainscote panel versus strips. My regular yard carries a primed 1/2" MDF wainscote panel that looks real nice installed.
As far as attaching it, I like to remove the sheetrock, so the baseboards don't stick out past the casings. If you do that, you can install cats between existing studs if you go with the individual strips, or nail the panel up if you use sheetgoods.
I have, on occasion, and against my better judgement, installed wainscote over drywall, using beads of panel adhesive and shooting in a few brads to hold it until everything sets up. But then there is usually problems dealing with the other trim.
"so the baseboards don't stick out past the casings."That's the kind of thing I meant about the detailing. Generally, we use a historical style trim with 3/4" millwork for casing and the base will be a 1x6 or 1x8 with a cap pice on top of that, and some with plinth blocks and sometimes none. We can set beaded wianscot on top ( above -elevation wise) the base and then trim the junction with a particular base cap piece. The chair rail will always protrude and need to wrap the casing anyway
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Yeah, I saw your post when I posted mine. I figured thats what you meant.
Same here on the timing. I was pointing out that you had a good example, not arguing the point.
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I like the MDF pre primed stuff.
When I use it I can use it over sheetrock by preinstalling 5/4 base and setting the bead panel right on top. I like that look a lot, as it eliminates the crevices you see when the base goes over the bead.
If I am using something vertical to hide the joints, and divide the secions, like 1/2" x 2.5" MDF, I will space the base with a 1/2" peice of MDF, then use a 3/4 MDF on top of that. That results in a nice order of surfaces.
I often wrap my door casings with backands, so the deep base dies into the backband.
Here is a sunroom I did, and while the panels aren't beaded, the order is the same. Not sure if you can see it or not, but it's all I have on this computer. I have bead shots as well if you like, I can post more.
Sorry...the files are too big. i will resize and repost bellow.
Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
Edited 10/27/2005 2:32 am ET by Lateapex911
lets try this again......Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT