Replies

1. 
   Greg_Booth | Jan 04, 1999 06:39am | #1

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   Here is how a log builder would do it. Position your work piece with the side you want to flatten facing up. Draw a level line across each end of the piece approx. the same distance from the bottom edge, assuming you want a uniform thickness. Connect the lines on each end by snapping chalklines along the length of the of the log, both sides. Be sure to pull and release the chalkline in a level plane as if it were slicing through your anticipated cut. Now you have 2 options. If you are handy with a chainsaw and your saw is sharp and powerful, just rip lengthwise to the line, occasionally checking your cut on the back side so as to keep the line or have a helper watch it and give you hand signals up or down. The other slower way is to make a series of cross cuts about 2" apart along the length of the portion you are removing, just to the lines, and break those out with a hammer or back of an axe. Then use your chainsaw to brush the surface flat to the line. Now you can smooth your cut with a disk grinder and correct any minor flaws. Hope this helps, Greg

2. 
   Guest_ | Jan 04, 1999 03:48pm | #2

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   Both of Greg's chainsaw suggestions are good, but you should be really comfortable with your chainsaw, particularly with the long rip. The saw must not only be sharp, but cutting true. Chain saws have a tendancy to wander off line. Most chain is intented for cross cutting logs. There is (or used to be) special ripping chain for chain saw mills that might wander less and produce a cleaner cut. Either way, practice on some other logs. Cross cutting to the line and chopping and paring out will vary in difficulty and smoothness of finish by the type of wood.

   How big is too big? Can you haul the log around fairly easily? Sounds like you got it home from the beach somehow. A) Check around for a woodworking shop with a larger bandsaw than yours and see what they'd charge to make the cut. B) Check around for someone operating a Wood-Mizer or similar bandsaw mill. (You should find their 800 # in FHB.) They shouldn't charge too much if you bring the log to them.

   Scott

3. 
   John_Winans | Jan 04, 1999 09:51pm | #3

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   Guys

   Thanks for the tips, I was contemplating the chainsaw idea. The log can be moved but at 175lbs is fairly unwieldy so I guess I'm off to practice a bit!
   John Winans

1. 
   Joe_Hartman | Jan 04, 1999 11:45pm | #4

   *John:Here's a couple of methods that have worked for me in the past although both are a bit time consuming. 1- Make a jig/frame that is flat and that will fit around the outside of your log. Screw or clamp the jig to the log to that about 1/2" is above the jig. Make an auxiliary router base that is about twice the width of the jig you made for the log. Using a 3/4" or 1" straight bit, and a lot of patience, remove the top layer, then move down one layer at a time until you have the size you want. You now have one flat side that can be put against a jointer fence,2- Take a board that has one flat (planed) edge and screw it into the waste on the log. Orient the board so that it is on a parallel plane with your potential finished surface and use the board as the guide on a planer fence. Feed slowly and take just a little bit off at a time (1/8").Keep in mind with both methods, that found wood tends to have all manner of stuff in the pores of the wood, like a lot of sand. You may want to use your worst bits/blades to start off with. If so, you need to be even more careful.

4. 
   John_Winans | Jan 04, 1999 11:46pm | #5

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   Help

   My wife has found a driftwood log that she wants to use as a mantlepiece. The problem is that it is very irregular in shape. I need one perfectly flat side that will sit flush to the wall. The piece is too big for my bandsaw,any ideas?
   Thanks