Hello. I am not an electrician. Here’s my questions:
Must a GFCI circuit start the power source; at the electric panel? Can I extend an existing (non-GFCI) load wire and add a GFCI to the end of it? I am primarily interested in getting protection at the end of the power source. All wiring is grounded.
I want to run a feed wire off a pull chain/outlet in my crawl space. This added and grounded wire will be encased in exterior grade tubing as it passes through the foundation wall and under paver stones. It will enter a masonry wall, and emerge as a GFCI outlet on that wall. I may want to add a light fixture further up, above the outlet. Is this do-able?
If I run two outlets off this feed wire, only the first outlet needs to be GFCI-protected; the second one, feeding off it, can be a standard outlet, protected by the first GFCI. Is that correct?
BTW there happens to be a GFCI exterior outlet somewhat near the proposed patio, but getting wire to the box will prove challenging for several reasons. The crawlspace light/outlet combo I mention above is far easier to access.
Thanks, Mel
Replies
You only need the GFCI protection at the outlets that require it so you will be OK extending one from the cral space. Any receptacles there should be GFCI too but not the lights
You only need the GFCI
Greg, thanks.
I am not sure I fully understand. I think you are saying that only the crawl space outlet needs to be GFCI'd. The patio outlets (regular; non-GFCI) will then be protected because they derive their power from the GFCI'd source in the crawlspace. Am I following you correctly?
Mel
If you connect down stream outlets to the "load" terminal of a GFCI receptacle, they are protected.
A GFCI outlet does not have to be the very first outlet in the sequence of outlets coming from the breaker panel -- it can be pretty much anywhere.
You may, if you wish, "daisy chain" outlets off a GFCI outlet so that the additional outlets are "protected". To do this the "supply" cable from the breaker panel (or from some junction box elsewhere) must first come to the GFCI and attach to it. Then a second cable must be attached to the "out" connections of the GFCI (both hot and neutral) and run to the "downstream" outlets that you wish to have "protected".
Study the diagrams with the GFCI outlet carefully, and/or find some tutorials on the web. This isn't very hard, but it can be a hair confusing, and if you get it wrong the GFCI outlet will be constantly tripping.
Another option, though rarely used anymore, is a GFCI breaker. This would "protect" everything on that circuit, and may be easier to install. Though for retrofit there can be problems where a box is shared between circuits and the neutrals get crossed.
Dan, thanks. Good writing and communication skills are required to explain a technical issue in "plain English". You did this very well. As a lead carpenter for some Habitat projects I frequently find myself in situations where I have to use commonly-understood analogies to explain technical matters. Good job. If I ever meet you, I'll hand you a Dutch beer! :)
Mel
Dont forget (if inspected) the outlet will need to be TR adn WR and have one of thethose ugly plastic boxes over it. (ugh)
next year probably arc fault also.
Not big and ugly anymore
Arlington offers several in use external boxes that are deep set and low profile.
Thank you. I most def. want a recessed, pretty-looking box! I can't stand those behemouths my electrician installed at a new house my son and I built. Ugh!
Mel
Mel
Sorry, I didn't include a link.
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/inbox
so so you know the quality......
they are plastic but win my vote for way better than all those cheap p o s boxes I've had to plug into at customers homes. Of course, any behemoth can bash the shit out of them, but normal educated use they last.