Need to do this, and never done it before. Recommend me details for best practice installation of a glass block window (new construction, not a cut-in) in a tiled-wall shower. 6×6 blocks, 3 wide, 8 high.
Does anyone have thoughts about a frame-and-grid product for glass block windows (made by IBP) that has a perimeter tube with nail-on flange attached, within which is a PVC grid. Starting at the bottom, blocks are inserted into each square grid opening, and when complete, white silicone is gunned into all the exterior joints.
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I did one in my first house.
I built a real large shower that was big enough that you didnt need a door. Was about 8X6.
Green marble walls and ceiling and a glass block wall about five foot by eight feet high.
I did nothing special.
Just framed the opening, felted it and went to town.
I did use the same clips you use for bricks around the perimeter to hold it in place.
I lived there about ten years after the completion and there weren't any problems whats so ever
Be a wall
andy
The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
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I would not use the caulk-in system. Why not just use permanent materials?
From Pittsburgh-Corning you can get detailed instructions and most or all of the materials. I've done a handful of windows with 6x6 and 8x8 block. I always start with a bevelled redwood sill with a flat ripped on top. The first course of block sits on that, and up it goes from there. On the inside (if the wall is tiled) I use a Schluter metal termination to create a caulk-able joint between the tile and the block. I can draw up a section and scan it for you if you like. Photo of one install attached.
Bob,
I agree with David. I also do them the old way with a redwood sill and mortar. Use foam on the jambs and head with little wall clips and reinforcement on every other run. Set the blocks in to run quarterround to cover the caulked foam. Also use the little plastic spacers.
KK
HD at one time you could order the glass block window and it would come aready in a frame and install like a regular window. already mudded together.
Variation on your method. I buy my unit grouted (interior shallow so you can grout to match tile) and banded. Set it in as one, tile to it. Good detail on flashing makes the job. This one is about the heaviest I'll tackle with another hand. 3'x4'.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
OK, nuff said. No PVC grid. I'll buy these as one unit, with a shipping and handling band around the perimeter. And I like the idea of having the mortar struck on on side, so I can pack the joints up with the same grout as the tile job on the inside.
But from those who have said, "tile right to it," expand a little. Should the block inside face be set flush to the tile substrate, or proud by the thickness of the tile?
How about on the exterior sill, jambs, and head. We are setting these in 2x6 framing, and painted cedar is being used outside. BTW, we've 42 inch roof overhangs where these windows go.
I wish I had a detail of the interior. Most of the customers want a healthy interior sill, to use. As much detail should be placed on waterproofing and flashing (membrane, much like a shower pan/curb) so problems don't occur. Same w/the outside. You've got a thick wall, many of the block are only 2-1/2 thick.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Here is what I am duplicating. I am curious about how to do the junction of tile and window.View Image
As you can see, there isn't much if any of a sill.
What type of trims are available in the tile you want to use. There's enough of a round over on the edge of the block to maybe die the tile into. That would put your glass block unit just a bit proud of the tile. Matching caulk grout joint all around at that juncture.
Or, perhaps extend a bullnose picture frame out over the glass block outline and use the caulk grout joint between the tile and the block. Those two different substrates even affixed to the same framing seems a place for minimal expansion or movement.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin ... what's that thingy in the middle of the window?
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
An awning vent. Not much on looks, but the owners liked the breeze that comes from that side of the house.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I have done three glass block windows as retrofits ... did one by the piece with the plastic inner guides & silicone, did the other two as pre-built units ... they came assembled in a finned frame with nice clean silicone joints ... slipped right in. Only problem with the assembnled units is that they can get heavy. One of mine was 4 ft high x 5 ft wide and it was a struggle for three of us to install it. I would do the assembled units again if the size worked out.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
buy it as one unit ...
then just set it with the mortar.
no need to build your own.
most any lumberyard can get most any configuration you want ...
'cept for cuts!
HD .. lowes ... anyone under glassblock in the yellow pages ...
I'm know I can ask for remodeling or nail ins ... just an extra frame on the outside ...
I like the mud in kind ....
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry