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I have made a set of kitchen cabinet doors with 1/8″ grooves on the inside edge to accept glass panels. The glass is slightly smaller than the groove which makes its installation easier;however, the drawer bumpers I was using to tighten the glass in place seem to no longer be available. All of the bumpers I have found are either too big, too small, or simply slide out of position when I install the glass. I have considered using a bead of caulk in the grooves prior to installing the glass, but question the possible messiness of this idea. Has anyone encountered a similar situation and solved the dilema?
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Replies
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I'm not sure I'm picturing the doors right, but on a set i recently put together I used a small bead of clear polyseamseal adhesive/caulk. The result looks nice, the glass can't jiggle, and the total holding power over such a large surface area is very good. Squeeze-out is easy to remove or dries clear.
*I was going through a stack of magazines my Dad gave me a while back, one cabinetmaker uses a hot glue gun.He put down a few dabs, set the glass, then ran a bead around the glass and set the trim in the bead of hot glue.Can't and won't vouch for it. I've never used hot glue, so I don't know how easily it'll come out if glass replacement is required. Thought it odd, but also thought I'd pass it on.Go to bed, andrew.
*I've done it several ways, and all the door manufacturers have a variation. My current supplier provides a clear vinyl strip that fits in a routed groove behind the glass. When I am making the doors, I run a strip of foam weatherstripping around the inside of the rebate, against which the glass sits (this is especially nice if you ever use leaded glass), and then use off the shelf mirror clips to hold the glass tight. I have never been stuck for a clip that will work. Personally, there is no way I would use any kind of a caulk in this application, though I know guys who do. I have also seen those put a lot of time into cleaning up mess, and fixing broken glass.
*Oh yeah -- I must have rushed off to bed sensing Mongo's hypocritical scorn was coming -- the glass was backed by a thin molding and screwed plastic clips. I wouldn't rely on glue alone either and assumed some sort of mechanical backup. The 2 together should be OK and allow glass replacement if it happens.
*There are some clips made to hold glass in cabinet doors. They screw to the back of the door and a thumb screw with a pad on it tightens up to hold the glass in place. I don't remember the manufacturer, but I buy them from E.B.Bradley.www.ebbradley.com
*You can get 1/16' thick double faced glazing tape at any glass shop that will work fine, or mill L shaped stops and let them stand proud. I don't think silicone is very professional looking. - jb
*You can't see it! You can't see it! (latex anyway(Sigh. Wish I'd kept my mouth shut. Well, gotta let jb and adrian feel superior now and then.... :)
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...'you can't see it, you can't see it' ... LOL!
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I have made a set of kitchen cabinet doors with 1/8" grooves on the inside edge to accept glass panels. The glass is slightly smaller than the groove which makes its installation easier;however, the drawer bumpers I was using to tighten the glass in place seem to no longer be available. All of the bumpers I have found are either too big, too small, or simply slide out of position when I install the glass. I have considered using a bead of caulk in the grooves prior to installing the glass, but question the possible messiness of this idea. Has anyone encountered a similar situation and solved the dilema?