Replies

1. 
   MarkH | May 18, 2006 06:55pm | #1

   Nail them up.  How are you going to hold everything in place while the glue dries? And you know glue will get on something you dont want it to.  It would be easier to forget the glue entirely, but I suppose you might get by by using brads to hold it while the glue dries.

   I would not use adhesive myself.

2. 
   rez | May 18, 2006 07:07pm | #2

   Dear John,

   For adhesive quality a PL product would make a better choice.

   Would you not want to shoot an occasional nail through to stud to hold till the glue sets?

   I wouldn't want to be the one attempting and repairs later on if that baseboard needed to be removed.

   Must be a pretty high end product you are performing to be concerned over hiding nail holes and touchup procedures on softwood baseboards.

   Cheers

    

   be dented by a vacuum

   half of good living is staying out of bad situations

3. 
   xosder11 | May 18, 2006 07:16pm | #3

   I just installed prepainted baseboards myself. Putty and paint the holes after you put it up. It's really not much work.

4. 
   DonCanDo | May 18, 2006 08:57pm | #4

   I'm guessing that you don't have a pneumatic finish nailer.  If you did, nailing is the only way to go.  If you don't, and since the walls are plaster, it is possible that hammering may cause the plaster to chip.

   If that's the case, the first thing I would try is pre-drilling the holes so that less hammering is required.  If that didn't work, I've had good luck with Loctite Power Grab.  It's water-based for easy clean-up and grabs quickly.  It's not strong enough, however, to hold baseboard flat if the wall has a lot of contours.

   One that that I wouldn't do is use glue just to avoid filling nail holes.  We're talking pretty small holes.  Just spackle (I happen to like Spackle Lite by Muralo), sand lightly when dry and touch-up

   -Don

5. 
   DougU | May 18, 2006 10:13pm | #5

   What's your baseboard? Thickness wise?

   If its not that thick use a 18g finish nailer that shots 2" nails,  the holes will be minimal and wont be that difficult to touch up.

   Now if you sprayed lacquer finish I might re-think my thinking on this!

    

   Doug

1. 
   dukeone | May 19, 2006 02:10am | #6

   Thanks All: I guess I'll give up the glue idea, you all have convinced me. I do have a finish nailer and will use it. Haven't I read some where that putting masking tape on the boards before shooting nails through will help prevent marks? Or is there a better way? This is for just painted baseboards in my breakfast nook but I always try to get the best outcome even when it is not that important; then when it is critical I'll have the skills and knowledge to make it look good. Thanks again, KDMKenneth Duke Masters

   The Bill of Rights December 15 1791 NRA Endowment Member

   LEAA Life Member

   CRPA Member

1. 
   splintergroupie | May 19, 2006 02:58am | #7

   I've glued baseboards and trim inside arches using springboards to hold the pieces. A springboard is a thin, flexible piece of wood a little longer than the distance from the trim to the nearest immovable object. It's slow, but it's pretty, and you seem to have plenty of time to do it.

2. 
   maverick | May 19, 2006 03:07am | #8

   Go ahead and glue 'em up. I do it when the situation presents itself. I Use PL500 because I know what it takes to get it apart again. You can pull it off the wall when its nailed, you'll take the wall with it when its glued.

3. 
   DougU | May 19, 2006 03:22am | #9

   Duke

   You can use a piece of cardboard off the back of a tablet, the real thin stuff, I've done that and the nail still sets deep enough but I get no dents from the bumping of the gun.

   Doug