say, I have a 1/2″ copper pipe (running up inside a wall) that I need to shorten a bit. Cut out a section then use a coupler.
Pretty tight quarters in there, and I don’t want to start a fire, so I’m wondering, can I can use a poly glue on this (or any other type of glue) instead of soldering it?? (fingers crossed 🙂
Framing the floor inside a crawlspace foundation keeps a gable-end addition close to grade.
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Replies
How can I put this??????..........
NO!
Your inviting disaster. Use an old cookie sheet and make your self a fire break. keep a bucket of water on hand and don't close the wall or leave untill you can put your bare hand on every thing that the flame touched.
There was an adhesisve (IIRC an epoxy) for this out a couple of years ago, but I am not sure if it was ever approved.
But you can use solderless fittinges.
Compression fittings and even easier to use Sharkbite fittings. Just push the ends in.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Joe,
No glue but there is a relatively new device on the market that is called a "Sharks Bite" around here.
It will simply slip over the cut end of the pipe and then you slip the next piece into it.
Code approved here , available at most plumbing supply places or big boxes.
Here is an online dealer just to show you how they work etc.
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/shark-bite-fittings.html
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
Ouuu, that Shark bite sounds pretty nice.Thanks for the info, need to get this done in the morning. Never trusted my soldering anyway!http://www.woodsshop.com
Go to a plumbing supply house. I was in one awhile back and they had an epoxy type sdhesive made for copper pipe.
Sorry I cant remember the name of the stuff but I know it was at a supply house not at the big boxes.
They have "cop R glue"
I wouldn't use it on something that conveys water though.
As others have mentioned Sharkbite seems to work in a pinch.
I'm not big on them, cause I can solder almost anywhere, but they do seem to work.
OK, I have another question.This pipe runs right up the edge of a stud so I can't use a regular pipe cutter that you put on and spin around the pipe. I could get a saber saw blade in there. What type of blade would make a clean cut? One of those non ferrous types?http://www.woodsshop.com
If you saw the pipe, you're gonna wind up with a rough edge no matter how careful you are, and that isn't going to make a clean joint easy.
Instead, buy yourself one of those mini tubing cutters. The thing is about half the size of a Zippo lighter and can cut almost right up against a stud or whatever. It only needs about a ½" of clearance. Any good plumbing supply house should have one, and a lot of big box stores carry them too.
As to re-joining the pipes with glue, as Jet said NO! If you don't feel confident sweating the joints, kick out the $10 for a Sharkbite. They work well (and they even work on that Spawn of Satan, PEX).
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Joe,
You need an autocut pipe cutterhttp://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/General-Wire-ATC12-1-2-Copper-Auto-Cut/8837/Cat/649and a sharkbite coupler.I just tried a shark bite coupler when I couldn't get a copper union to seal. I am sold on them for applications that are accessible and I want the option of separating the joint later.The sharkbite fittings seem cheap to me at around 7 dollars at the plumbing supply house or home depot. Several other message threads have commented on the high cost. In my case the sharkbite coupler was cheaper than a 3/4" copper union (that is now in the recycle bucket.)Karl
Legend Valve company has recently come out with a line of fittings to compete with Sharkbite.
The supply house had some literature on them but no fittings yet.
The difference I did notice is they aren't made to be taken back off, and they require a brass insert for pex.
If you can get a flaring tool in there cut and flare the copper and use a copper to copper connector with an olive and joint compound.
Regards john Bolton From OZ
You can make it fool proof but not idiot proof
That won't work Bolts, it's right up against a stud, and on its other side I only have about 2.5" of space to get a blade in there.http://www.woodsshop.com
Don't you need to spin those tubing cutters all the way around the pipe? That's my problem, it's right up against a stud and I can't move it away more than an eight of an inch.http://www.woodsshop.com
If you only have 1/8" beside the stud a shark bite wont fit, too large a diameter. You could cut it with a saw, pull the pipe away from the stud and recut with an autocut, use four elbows or three 45's to solder it back together. karl
You do have to be able to make a full turn with any tubing cutter. The smallest one I've got needs a half inch of clearance to get the knob past.
If you really can't get more than an eighth of an inch, saw it off with a very fine blade going very gently. If you can get the pipe away from the stud once it's cut, trim the ends with a pipe cutter before you snap on the Shark Bite. If the pipe isn't round the fitting could leak.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
"If you can get a flaring tool in there cut and flare the copper and use a copper to copper connector with an olive and joint compound."I know you folk downunder are a bit STRANGE <G>, but I don't think that an olive will work.In the US we use olive in our "adult beverages" and use brass plumbing connectors.But we do use white bread in some plumbing repairs in addition to making sandwhiches..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Dear Bill
Nothing stange about us folks down under the olive is a brass fitting that fits between the two flared ends of the pipe with a comptression fitting on either side male and female.
regards JohnYou can make it fool proof but not idiot proof
OK, it went fine fellas, really glad I popped in last night and asked about this. I made like a Plumber and notched out the top part of the stud, then hacked a circular area in the double 2x4 top plate!Got one of those little mini cutters, (shaped like a doughnut) made some nice clean cuts, and slipped that sharkbite on.You can see how confined the space was with that drop ceiling track at the bottom of the pic.Really appreciate all the help!
http://www.woodsshop.com
Yep, that was the long one I was talking about. Glad it worked out!
Now that these Sharkbite fittings are in HD, I think there will be a big shift. Suddenly things get much easier to do. Now, you can work with copper and PEX, and never need a crimper nor solder!Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
there is copper glue that works well. See justforcopper.com. I used this stuff a couple years ago on some 3/4" water lines and valves. It's in a mechanical room, exposed, so I could see if any leaks developed. It's held up fine.
Joe
thanks for the pic. too bad it wasn't at the beginning of this thread so we all could cut to the chase (pardon the pun )
Looking at your picture, if this is what you done, thats GARBAGE! sorry.
Kinda harsh, don't ya think?
It's not what you or I would have done, but he did get it done didn't he.
The carving out of the double top plate doesn't reduce the structural integrity as far as I can see, not pretty, but I can see the PITA that would be to carv.
I have no idea why there is a 1x material on the face, & with it face nailed to the plate there isn't any structural condition there.
I don't know how far the roof is above that, since that apears to be blue sky, I would be more worried about freeze protection, but I'm not sure where that pic is taken, or if that is a first floor with an addition going on top.
“If Fred Thompson runs... then I think that makes it easier for me to not run.” Newt Gingrich
From the picture the original post submitted I don't see any reason he had to carve out the structure to solve his prob., bearing or not bearing. Harsh, maybe, but I will not pat a diyer on the back doing something that I would have fired a pro for. Opinion only, luck.
......................................"If you don't have the time to do it right, where will you find the time to do it over"
Edited 9/16/2007 12:16 pm ET by Shacko
Don't have to worry about freeze conditions here in San Diego! ;-)Yeah, not my prettiest work that's for sure!, but there aren't any structural issues really. This is a 4' wide mudroom's shed roof I just had to lower down. Here's a shot of the mudroom, we're building a deck out over it. Had to remove that railing and concrete balcony, then lower and slope the new roof.That darn pipe's elbow was only 3/4 too high to clear the underside of the new sheathing.Really appreciate the help on this one! Plumbing rates right up there, under Electrical, for things I don't know too much about!http://www.woodsshop.com
Joe... all these replies focusing on how to politely cut next to the stud.... time to think like a plumber and just cut the damn stud out of the way!!
Sorry Plumbill, I couldn't resist! You going to the JLC show this year?
LOL! I was going to tell him to cut the stud, too--but I can't see if it's structural from here....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
no matter for one stud...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Yeah but we dunno how many others in the same wall have been strongbacked, sistered, or just plain cut.
Anyway that's a whole nother story starting right there....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Dino
Plumbers don't care if the roof sags a little.
Plumbers don't care if the roof sags a little.
Is that why they call it the 'plumber look'?
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
"Plumbers don't care if the roof sags a little.", if that is true they are not not plumbers!!!!!.
""Plumbers don't care if the roof sags a little.", if that is true they are not not plumbers!!!!!."You are right. Real plumbers see how many floor joist that they can cut and the toilet not fall into the basement. They don't bother with studs. <G, D, & R --- very, very fast>
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill, for a long time I looked at you as an indivual that would research probs. on the net, this looks like a emotional response; my original post said if you chopped out part of the structure you were not a plumber?
Did you REALLY read my reply?.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill: I read your post over and over and can't find what I missed, clarify in baby talk please.
"<G, D, & R --- very, very fast>"Grin, Ducking, and Running from the bricks that I know if being thrown my way.An acknowledgement that an over the top statement was made for humor.Along with." Real plumbers see how many floor joist that they can cut and the toilet not fall into the basement."An acknowledge that plumbers have been known to cut structural items.But like much hummor a small truth exaggerated to the extreme..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Are these wood studs that you are advocating cutting or your ex's studs?"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
ex's....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Can't really cut the stud out. The little section of t&g paneling I cut out is above the dropped ceiling, and below the top plate, with maybe 5" between the two. Below the dropped ceiling is the finished paneling and I don't want to touch any of that. I could carve out an area between the pipe and the stud, just got a multi master last week :-)http://www.woodsshop.com
could carve out an area between the pipe and the stud, just got a multi master last week
There ya go. Carve out enough to swing a mini cutter through there.
Turn the water off first, tho <(;o)>
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
If you can get in from the right angle, use a drill and small hole saw (or large auger, if you're not too worried about prematurely cutting open that pipe) to gnaw away at the stud.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
"Can't really cut the stud out. The little section of t&g paneling I cut out is above the dropped ceiling, and below the top plate, with maybe 5" between the two. Below the dropped ceiling is the finished paneling and I don't want to touch any of that. I could carve out an area between the pipe and the stud, just got a multi master last week :-)"With that tight of space to work and with the pipe tight against the stud I would be looking at alternate repairs that included runing althernate pipes or paths.You might fish a a replacement run with PLEX or flexable copper tubing.And I don't know what problem that you are trying to fix are exactly where it is in this run.But I had to replace a GI riser to bathroom vanity. The rest of the piping in that area was copper and they did not use a dielectric fitting. It was in a 6" wet wall so I had some room to work.I remove the stop valve. Then from the unfinished basement hacked out a large hole in the sub-floor and then wiggled and yanked on the pipe until I broke it out.Then make up a replacement with copper and put on the elbow and stub and worked it up the wall until the stub stuck out the wall below the vanity..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Not sure if I'll make the show, but I'm definitely up for the meeting afterwards.
“If Fred Thompson runs... then I think that makes it easier for me to not run.” Newt Gingrich
cut a section of the stud out...
do the deed...
sister a new stud to the cut stud...
you just got ya allthe work room ya need...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
When you are looking at the fitttings, it's the long one that I think will work best for you. It's designed to slip over the copper only.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
There is a special glue (don't have a link) that has been advertised as rated for copper water pipe. Ordinary glues aren't it, though.
You're best advised to use a SharkBite no-solder fitting. Not a long track record, but good reports so far.
Joe,
The real trick to soldering is to not solder anything untill you've cleaned it well. sand then flux.
Now heat up the pipe untill it melts the lead.. do not melt the lead and hope it sticks.. (it won't)
Now heat up the pipe untill it melts the lead
psssst Frenchy we don't use "lead" anymore.
“If Fred Thompson runs... then I think that makes it easier for me to not run.” Newt Gingrich
plumbill,
you are correct, I should have said solder, shows how old I am..
Hey I still use 50/50.
On copper waste lines, & vac lines. It's OK as long as it's not a potable water line.
“If Fred Thompson runs... then I think that makes it easier for me to not run.” Newt Gingrich
yeah, even though the rest of the lines that you are repairing were done with 50/50.
And the supply from the street is lead.
LOL, Yeah there is a lot of old water lines that have been done with 50/50.
Most of my guys under 40 don't know the flowing qualities of 50/50, thus never use it.
I use it on lines (where legal) that there is a gap problem, or I need to maintain a lower temp.
“If Fred Thompson runs... then I think that makes it easier for me to not run.” Newt Gingrich
Remember he's likely to have water in this pipe, too, and he's not likly to have a MAPP torch. Plus in that confined space over the drop ceiling it's gonna be a real dog's breakfast just altogether.
Sharkbite is the way to go for this one.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....