I am tring to glue lattice dividers and it looks like they are made out of recycled milk jug plastic (PET–can’t remember what that stands for, but really doesn’t matter). I’ve tried Liquid Nails construction adhesive and I’ve tried my favorite, Lexel. The Liquid Nails held slightly, but the squeeze-out could easily be peeled off, so figured for long term gluing it wasn’t working. I was surprised that the Lexel was even worse–held hardly at all (and I sanded the shine off the pieces before gluing). I just tried Loc-Tite Power Grab and haven’t checked it yet.
The &^*% labels they put on each piece are on there forever, unless you use Goo-Gone or similar to take them off–wish I knew what adhesive is on the back of those labels!
So far, the adhesives have held long enough to position the slats so I can flip the board over and put screws in from the back of a 1×4 board into the plastic (using them as seat slats on a bench, so they can’t be coming loose in a couple days and they’ll be getting some pressure to pull them off). Glue that actually held though would give added security. Now I’m using so many screws the board is threatening to split. Next time (if there is a next time) I’ll just use splintery cedar (which is far cheaper anyway) and let the sitter beware!
Replies
Danno,
Milk jugs are PE, or polyethylene, which is nearly impossible to glue to. PET (aka PETE) is the clear stuff of soda bottles. Goop brand adhesive (comes in squeeze tubes about 5 oz.) will stick to PE. Thermal welding also works.
Bill
Thank you--I came real close to buying Goop, but thought Lexan was so similar I'd just try it. Monday I'll buy some GOOP and try it--I've pretty much screwed everything down now, but may loosen some and try the Goop--but I suppose the area is so contaminated with the old adhesive nothing will work now! (I'm not taking it all apart to clean the old adhesive off--maybe just where it'll get the most abuse.) The back shouldn't get much force on it, but with the seat I may try re-gluing--though with the seat I used two screws at each end of each slat. Unless Bertha Butt plunks herself down, should be okay!
I'm concerned that vandals will stub out cigarettes on it (and slats are about $7 each), but wood wouldn't be a heck of a lot better in that case. The other thing is that sun may make the stuff too pliable--sit down and have the slats mold themselves to your rear end! Maybe then I could market it as "memory" seat--if it doesn't remember, your seat will (sitting on melting plastic would tend to do that!).
About half way through this project I'm saying to myself--"Why did you have to be innovative and try something weird? Why didn't you just use wood?" But since other artists are using everything from concrete to stained glass, I figured I'd better try something different!
I'm not sure what plastic the windshield wiper water tanks are made from, on cars...But I have used marine goop to fix cracks in those babies, and it works great.Sand the area down really well first. Then clean off with something like alcohol, which will leave no residue. (I used brake cleaner, on a rag, and wiped it down. Don't spray the brake cleaner on the plastic.)I thought lexel, (lexan is a plastic.), was pretty much the same stuff, as well. Glad I didn't try that first and then just give up.In afterthought, I have to wonder if the brake cleaner also had something to do with prepping the surface to accept the goop, more than the plastic normally would have.
Hey, don't look at me, I'm mentally retireded.
Luka,Those wiper fluid tanks are HDPE, just like milk jugs, only thicker walls. High Density PolyEthylene.I haven't used Lexel in awhile, but the smell is wicked, and quite different from the Goop product, which suggests to me a different chemical composition.Bill
Yup, seems like the same plastic. I'd noticed, and thought that was the case, but wasn't positive.The marine goop and lexel actually look AND smell the same to me. That's why I thought they were pretty much the same.The only real differences in the end result, (when cured.), that I can see, are that the goop is more rubbery, and is also more cloudy.Ok, I searched the MSDS sheets...The major ingredients in both are naptha and toluene. Looks like the percentages may be reversed. But that is the first two major ingredients in both.
Hey, don't look at me, I'm mentally retireded.
While we are at it, I am going to be working with
twin wall polycarbonate on the next project. Is there
a recommended adhesive for polycarbonate? And what's
the best sort of blade for cutting the stuff?Likewise, on the same project, we are looking into
something called "PEP" (3-Form Struttura), which is a
clear plastic structural panel. Any information on PEP
plastic?
TD,Weld-On make a line of thin and thicker solvent cements. Here is a retailer link. http://www.oceanproaquatics.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/2105Those other panels sound like they are also polycarbonate. Check with the manufacturer.Bill
Thermal welding also works
What Bill said - hot glue guns are a cheap thermal welder!