A friend asked me to find out what kind of glue is good for repairing redwood. It is an outdoor sign – one of those ones where the letters are sandblasted into the wood. A piece is broke off the bottom and needs to be glued back. We are in central NC, to give you and idea of the climate.
Thanks,
Replies
Titebond III, has come out with a water proof glue. Should be able to get it at any big box store.
Polyurethane glue, if you have some, is also good for outdoor use.
get some of that gooey white paste you and the girl with freckles and buck teeth used to eat back in the corner in first grade...that'll do it. {G}
You oughtta see her now! Thats some GOOD stuff, that paste!
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I don't know if redwood is like teak? and if it is, how much oil is still in it after it's been exposed to weatehr a while, but, do you need to wipe the break with mineral spirits or whatever to get rid of the oil to make the glue stick?
Danno, it's way softer and more porus than teak, and not as oily. I used to make the blanks for a sign carver back b4 poly glus were so popular. I could not use resourcinol cuz she hated how it dulled her gouges, so it was Titebond II .I happend to see one 2 yrs ago, that was glued up about 18 yrs. ago..still there.
The gold leaf mighta helped tho'.
I never used a solvent wash before glueing, just glue, no biscuts (again, one could carve into a biscut..a bad thing).
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Tell you what man that dang ol go-rilla glue is some tuff stuff just dont get any on ya it's a real booger to get off. Just follow the direcs and moisten the area you want to stick.
I've used both resorcinol and Gorilla for stuff that has survived fully exposed to the weather for years (the resorcinol for about 12). For this situation I'd use the resorcinol, probably, since it isn't nearly as messy. The only problem with it (besides cost and having to mix it) is that it "dries" to a dark brown that will show as a line in the finished work. But probably not visible from the distance you're concerned with.
You do have to clamp it for several hours while it sets (longer in colder weather). Gorilla sets a bit faster, especially if you spritz the wood with water first, but it's hard to keep it from foaming up and spoiling the surface.
What sphere says about the wash, you dont have to prep the wood like you do teak, no oils in it.
The one thing about the poly glues is you are going to have foam expanding out of the glue up.
It dont come off all the cleanly,( is that even a word?)
Doug
>> ... cleanly ( is that even a word?)
Yes. Perfectly respectable.
Resorcinol.
and... definitely NOT epoxy.
curious here, why definatly not? And which epox is it that you mean? There are so many. Not being a smart azz, just wanna hear your take on it.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Epoxy is too stiff -- doesn't swell and shrink with the wood. Result is that you get a split along the glue joint.
not all epox is that hard/stiff. And resorcinol IS brittle, glassine.
Thats my conundrum here, Resc. will dull a blade right quick, and I have seen many devcon epox stay flexible, where west is med. and PC7 is like steel..so hard it theoretically could cause what you say.
For a sign repair, I'd still go with TBII..the only poly's I use anymore come in a caulk tube, I hate the foaming, and horrible shelf life of GG.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Dan
I build all my exterior doors with epoxy, never have them split on the joints.
And I wouldnt use Titebond II, it's only water resistant, tite III is water proof.
Doug
According to a chemist at the California Redwood Institute that I talked to about 10 years ago, epoxy is not compatible with the tannins in redwood. I proved it to myself by building some redwood window sash with West System epoxy that failed. They recommended resorcinol and I've used that several times with great results.
You can also use 5 minute epoxy, that comes in the small dual injector looking thingies. It is probably less expensive than a whole tube of titebond, unless you have a need for more than just a dab.
J.P.
I use titebond II... but Titebond III may be a better suit for this job. Be sure to clamp it well.
Also, be sure to clean it well to get any grime off. No worries about oils, though... (unless someone spilled engine oil on it LOL). Redwood will bond just fine with titebond alone. Be sure the surfaces are completely dry when gluing after cleanup, however.
Out of curiosity... did it break at a joint or did it break along the grain? If it broke along the grain, it may be necessary to seal the sign again to slow the breakdown by UV, weather, etc. Just an afterthought. Those signs are very cool looking... but they weather poorly.
If it broke along a joint... it may be worthwhile to inspect the other joints for repair needs.
Edited 8/23/2004 2:16 am ET by Rich from Columbus
I don't know if it broke on a joint or on a seam. Havn't seen it. Like I said, I was asking for a friend. He was concerned that there may be some oils, etc, in the redwood that would make it different to work with than other woods.
I called my buddy last night and gave him the preliminary "results". I gave him the URL for this thread, and am hoping he will take a look at the whole Breaktime thing. It's kind of hard to understand how (well) BT works without seeing it.
Anyway, thanks much to everyone...
Jimmy: you reading this??? If so give me a call or put a response to this thread. Don't worry, these guys are all good guys and won't bust your chops too bad!!! Careful though. Some of 'em just love to argue... - er - a - I mean "discuss". LOL Matt