Replies

1. 
   JeffBuck | Mar 19, 2006 05:57am | #1

   I've glued drywall to brick and block walls.

   Used lotsa construction adhesive and a handful of short roofing nails to hold it in place as the glue sets. The idea is to try and hit a mortar joint ... those nails go in pretty well ... the ones that miss ... sometimes they grab just a bit, sometimes they don't.

   I hammer till one or the other happens ... then just let the half bent nail stick out. That's why I prefer roofers over cut concrete nails ... as U can go back after the glue sets and just pound them flat into the drywall and skim coat with compound.

   Might be a good time to try the new "power grab" adhesives out there.

   Maybe a lot of regular const adhesive with a coupla dabs of the instant grab stuff to hold it all tight.

   What's the floor? Any way to make triangle braces off the floor, say every 4 ft ... then glue and lay the sheets ... tack the braces vertical ... run 2x or plywood cross braces horizontal?

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

2. 
   gordsco | Mar 19, 2006 07:16am | #2

   I've done much the same as Jeff on block walls.

   PL-200 construction adhesive. Stick the sheet, pull it off and let the glue set up for 30 seconds. Re-stick the sheet (the aired glue acts a bit like contact and gives a better stick) then concrete nails.

   You may need to switch adhesives, PL-200 is a drywall glue and may not take to that vinyl coating. Maybe PL-400 or PL-Premium would be better.

   If you find the right adhesive there would be no need to stand the sheets. Taping 10' upright seams would be an interesting project.

   Gord

   
   

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   Edited 3/19/2006 12:20 am by gordsco

3. 
   JDRHI | Mar 19, 2006 07:20am | #3

   Typical panel adhesive should work fine, but I'd probably go with the poly PL.

   Use the "rock to rock" screws......damned if I can think of their actual name, but around here, if you walked into a good hardware store or lumber yard they'd know what yer lookin' for. (Maybe Drywall Laminating screws?) They're out there.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

4. 
   ClaysWorld | Mar 19, 2006 04:42pm | #4

   Crazy foam, That's what I call it but I think that there is the specific sheetrock foam.

   I have used the can foam to put up full sheets, once it's up and then you collapse the foam by pulling it off and sticking it up again. Within 30 min it's set up.

   Ever get it on you- well now your reminded how good that stuff is.

5. 
   ruffmike | Mar 19, 2006 06:34pm | #5

   They do make a lamination screw, but it is 1and 1/2" long and if the tip hits anything on the back, they strip out and wont countersink.

   If the exsisting stuff has vinyl on it, I would test a piece before proceeding, to make sure it will stick to the vinyl. maybe score the  vinyl?

    When laminating regular sheetrock to sheetrock, we prefer to use all porpose joint compound, less messy and good bond.

                               Mike

       Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.

1. 
   DML | Mar 19, 2006 11:57pm | #6

   My sheetrock guys glue up rock fairly often in situations where there are no studs to screw into. Like the others guys say a good construction adhesive, but I would add also a good clean coat of quality PRIMER on the old wall first.

    

1. 
   truck8 | Mar 21, 2006 02:18am | #7

   Thanks for all the great ideas, you give me confidence.

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 21, 2006 01:10pm | #8

   I have had good luck using tension pins, for drop ceiling wall molding, as fasteners for sheetrock glued over block walls. They are case hardened nails about 1 1/8" long. Might be a little short for a second layer application, but are less likely to bend when going into CMUs'.

    

   Dave

6. 
   ClaysWorld | Mar 23, 2006 10:35pm | #9

   A little follow up with this information

   Structural benefits: Clemson University has been researching the use of spray foam as an enhanced attachment system for roofing. This research centers on how to retrofit or construct buildings to be more resistant to hurricane and other high wind events. Clemson's research shows that spray foam can significantly improve the attachment of roof sheathing to trusses and rafters, similar to the way construction adhesives help bond a floor system together. In a retrofit case, foam can be sprayed on one or both sides of the sheathing/rafter intersection from inside the finished roof. In new construction, spray foam can be applied to the entire roof system. The spray foam makes a significantly stronger roof than either nails or screws alone. More information on this research is available from Clemson University's Civil Engineering Department, or the 113 Calhoun St Project in Charleston, SC.

   I was also going to hunt up a picture of a roof applicator that I can't find at the moment, it puts out like 4 or 5 streams of foam for attaching sheet to deck.

   Oops I would like to acknowledge the above to http://www.rlcengineering.com/sprayfoam.htm

   And here is kinda what I was thinking about, but it was a different system I had seen. http://www.sprayfoam.com/spps/ahpg.cfm?spgid=34

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   Edited 3/23/2006 3:38 pm by ClaysWorld

   
   

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   Edited 3/23/2006 3:42 pm by ClaysWorld