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Gluing down copper

MGMaxwell | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 29, 2005 11:54am

I’m going to use a sheet of copper for my kitchen island countertop. (We don’t need to discuss the pro/cons of whether or not it’s suitable). I’d like it to TIGHTLY adhere and lay FLAT. I got Contact Cement once, and since I didn’t have my cheater glasses with me, it wasn’t until I got home that I saw it says specifically not to use with copper. LN or PL might work well but would be hard to flatten out sufficiently. Any suggestions.

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  1. seeyou | Aug 30, 2005 12:38am | #1

    I've done several food prep counter surfaces for commercial kitchens. In all cases, we've wrapped the substrate so no adhesive was necessary.

    If you're using a large piece of copper, you'd be better off if you could figure a way to let it float in your design. Sorry, I don't have a good answer about the adhesive.

    Birth, school, work, death.....................

  2. JohnSprung | Aug 30, 2005 01:35am | #2

    I used SikaFlex LM-15 as a sealant in my standing seams.  On a large area like that it would probably serve well as an adhesive. 

    How are you handling the edges?   Copper works well for bending around things.  Breadpan folds for the corners and hems bent toward the inside would look nice.

    BTW, what weight copper are you using?  Heavy stuff like 32 oz. would be very unlikely to telegraph glue lines, but extremely difficult to bend.  With 12 or 16 oz, I think you'd want to spread the adhesive very evenly.

     

     

    -- J.S.

     

    1. MGMaxwell | Aug 30, 2005 03:25am | #4

      I'm going to wrap it around the edge of 3/4 inch plywood. I'll use a brake for the sides and ends and fasten it underneath with copper nails predrilled into the plywood

    2. MGMaxwell | Aug 30, 2005 03:31am | #5

      I think it's 18 gauge and that's why I want to have even smooth glue base.

  3. alias | Aug 30, 2005 02:59am | #3

    max- follow this link, i intend to lift this design of gate. perhaps you can extract some of the procedure to your application.

    http://www.diynet.com/diy/shows_wwk/episode/0,2046,DIY_14350_34946,00.html

    ..

    " Feed the good wolf....."
  4. alias | Aug 30, 2005 04:09am | #6

    i messed up with the project , my apologies. there was another project that he scuffed up the the copper with 100 grit sand paper, and spreading a thin coat of slow setting epoxy. turned the surface upside down placing the copper down then using a large flat caul(plywood) and evenly weight the caul down. keeping an eye on squeeze out and cleaning that up. again sorry for the bogus thread......

    ..

    " Feed the good wolf....."
  5. Link | Aug 30, 2005 04:23am | #7

    If you're looking for a type of contact cement that can be used with copper you might try looking at seam cement that is used for rubber roofs.  It's what is used to attach the rubber to copper gutters.  I don't know if it will work in your application but at least it is compatible with the copper.

  6. LynchPin | Aug 30, 2005 04:32am | #8

    Well, you're not supposed to, but contact cement will work. I worked with ####guy for a few years and did a bunch of kitchen counters with copper held down
    with contact cement -- he's been doing them that way for years. Never had a
    problem. Use a paint roller to spread the adhesive evenly on both the sheet
    of copper and the top of the counter. Only glue down the top surface. Let
    it set up for 24 hours (or more) with sand bags or other heavy stuff to
    "clamp" it. Once it's set up, bend and pound the edges over with a rubber
    mallet. This makes for a nice flat surface on top and a hand hammered
    look on the eges. Good luck!

  7. donpapenburg | Aug 30, 2005 06:18am | #9

    I have a thin SS cover on my counter top over two layers of particle board . Not glued down ,but bent to form the edge and backsplash . When a hot pan is set on it the area under the pan expands enough that you can see it raise . something to think about.

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