Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 09, 2005 01:54am | #1

   FEWER screws for one thing.

    

1. 
   JonE | Dec 09, 2005 01:56am | #2

   Any other benefit?  Wall stiffness a factor or not?  I can see myself possibly demoing one or more walls and having to deal with drywall chunks stuck to the studs. 

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 09, 2005 02:06am | #3

   Sure, it helps the DW act more as a shear surface, so, it lends some added stiffness too.

   If you worry about what to do come demo time...just zip along the sides of the studs remove the big panels, remove the wires, sledge hammer out the studs. Done deal. 

1. 
   Diamond | Dec 09, 2005 02:08am | #4

   Drywall is often glued for soundproofing purposes.
   It eliminates vibration.
   Some people like ceiligs to be glued to prevent future problems.

2. 
   CAGIV | Dec 09, 2005 02:10am | #5

   Maybe it's the type of glue used, the few times I've demo'd glued on drywall the glue always sticks to the studs and dw comes off just fine, doesn't really seem to stick very well to the drywall paper in my limited experience.

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 09, 2005 04:09pm | #7

   yeah, it only really sticks tite right near a screw or nail..I try to avoid demo anyway. (G) 

2. FHB Editor
   JFink | Dec 10, 2005 02:01am | #12

   What type did you use CAG? I'm sure drywall adhesive is the best bet, but I've seen other construction adhesives that say "drywall" on it...I don't know if I trust those as much. Might as well get the adhesive that says drywall right on the tube!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

3. 
   CAGIV | Dec 10, 2005 02:20am | #14

   I've never personally glued any up, I try to stay as far away from drywall work of any sort as possible,  My expereince has only been removing it for remodels

4. FHB Editor
   JFink | Dec 10, 2005 02:45am | #15

   Oh sorry, I misread your post.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

5. 
   BuildItDave | Dec 10, 2005 07:42pm | #16

   What do you do when drywalling exterior walls? I typically install my Kraft faced insulation, with the paper overlapping the studs. Obvously, gluing the sheetrock to the Kraft face paper, or a visqueen vapor barrier, does nothing. I do use the glue on uninsulated interior walls, though.

   Any suggestions for exterior walls? Other than tucking the paper insulation flaps next to the studs rather than over them?

    

   Edited 12/10/2005 11:43 am ET by BuildItDave

6. FHB Editor
   JFink | Dec 12, 2005 06:13pm | #20

   That is the only solution Dave...that glue is not meant to be applied over kraft paper or vapor barriers, I forgot to mention that (good catch!)Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

2. 
   4Lorn1 | Dec 09, 2005 02:29am | #6

   Fewer fasteners, faster finishing , fewer fastener 'pops', greater structural rigidity.On the other hand fewer fasteners only sometimes saves time and finishing, which has to be done anyway at the joints, may not go appreciably faster or cheaper.Of course tileboard, or similar sheetgoods used in place of tile in wet locations, seems to go up better with as few fasteners as possible simply because fasteners rust or corrode and the holes they create can leak.The structural part depends on how dependent the house design is on the drywall. Some which are dependent on drywall for shear or membrane strength are cutting it close to the edge in terms of redundancy and long term resisitance IMHO. In theory you could go the way of vehicles with their unibody construction. Where everyhting is, in effect, structural. The windshield is included in the design and helps stiffen the body.You could, applying the same principle, use the refrigerator in a home as a structural member. Might be able to save a buck or two on framing and/or shear walls but is this a good idea? What if you buy a different brand of fridge? Does your house fall over during the next storm? Do you want to have to consult with an engineer when buying major appliences?Same with structural drywall. Is it a good idea? I have my doubts. Better IMHO to use structural sheathing or additional framing even if it is slightly more costly.I can say that gluing drywall can complicate replacing or repairing the drywall. Long term this alone may militate against gluing it in where it is not necessary.

3. 
   Soultrain | Dec 09, 2005 05:42pm | #8

   I don't understand how gluing allows you to use fewer screws.

   All the glue does is hold the paper on the back of the drywall to the framing.  Seems to me if you use fewer screws you are betting on the paper not peeling off the back...

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 09, 2005 06:00pm | #9

   OK, then don't understand. It works. The paper won't magically let loose from the core. 

1. 
   Soultrain | Dec 09, 2005 06:37pm | #10

   I'm just saying that when I glue it, I use the same number of screws anyway.  With fewer screws, more of the drywalls weight is being held by the glue.

   Of course the paper doesn't "magically let loose from the core", the paper is pulled from the core by the weight of the drywall itself.

   Edited 12/9/2005 10:39 am ET by Soultrain

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 09, 2005 06:45pm | #11

   In actuality, I probably do too. I have not had much to do with DWall in a long time, except about 10 boards at my house 2 yrs ago..and I didn't glue it.

   I have in the distant past hung doulbe 5/8th on steel studs, and we glued the hell outta it, esp the second layer, the longer screws were much harder to drive, with out them cocking sideways than the first screws.

   I rarely have to do sheetrock anymore, and I really don't miss it. I will need about 30 sheets in my upstairs cathedral cieling soon, and I fully intend to hire our Latino roofers ( jacks of all trades actually) to hang it. I can handle the finishing, but hanging a sloped cieling is best subbed to the younger guys. I also doubt I'll have them glue it. 

2. 
   durabond5 | Dec 10, 2005 02:10am | #13

   The paper will never pull from the core until the wall is demoed

2. 
   Renoun | Dec 10, 2005 08:33pm | #17

   I have never glued drywall to studs however I have frequently glued 1/4" to existing walls or ceilings during remodeling. I haven't been happy with the results if I try to flush screws in 1/4" so I add a few temp screws and brace the panel in place until the adhesive has set, especially on ceilings. Typically this is done as an expedient repair of lath and plaster.

3. 
   Matt | Dec 11, 2005 02:06am | #18

   A lot of drywall is hung without glue.

4. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Dec 11, 2005 04:37am | #19

   JonE, the reason we use glue here is to minimize the possibility of nail pops. In fact, no one EVER puts a nail or screw in the field on wall applications unless the length exceeds the normal 16' board length.  The wall finishes quite nicely if you don't have any nails to fill.

   I've also installed quite a few vinyl covered drywall with no visible screws using hidden clips and glue. I learned to apply the glue in dabs that were set about 6" apart. After dabbing a few hundred boards, I could dab as fast as anyone could lay a solid bead. The dabs actually work as good as continuous beads but saves about half the cost of glue.

   blue

    

1. 
   csnow | Dec 12, 2005 08:07pm | #21

   "JonE, the reason we use glue here is to minimize the possibility of nail pops. In fact, no one EVER puts a nail or screw in the field on wall applications unless the length exceeds the normal 16' board length."

   Do you have trouble with cracks?  Seems like adhesive would cause drywall to 'follow the framing' better, leading to more cracks.  Crack avoidance strategies call for 'floating corners', meaning no fasteners near the corners so that shifting framing does not cause cracks.

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Dec 16, 2005 06:54am | #22

   Csnow, no, we don't have any drywall cracking issues, even when the houses are framed poorly. We do have truss uplift issues if the hangers fasten too close to theinterior partitions.

   blue 

2. 
   Saltworks | Dec 16, 2005 05:02pm | #23

   I did some remodeling on a house I own, built in 1979.  The drywall had been glued and had only one or occasionally two screws in the field.  In many cases, the drywall had "bellied" away from the studs.  The glue had apparently dried out and simply released the drywall.  I hope adhesives are better today than 26 years ago, but it wasn't a great system in 1979.

   Bill