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good bye cracks question

k1c | Posted in General Discussion on March 26, 2009 02:52am

I want to repaint the house. I have several hairline cracks throughout the rooms. Some I know I have to repair with tape. Others are straight hairlines that look like the edge of a paper tape. Maybe I sanded too closely and did not catch it at the time. All began soon after the construction and none have increased or moved since 5 years ago. I want to try product like good-bye cracks on some of these cracks without repairing them first. Is this product able to bridge such cracks and stay repaired over time? I mix-used paper tape and mesh tape. Ceilings may have got mesh because it was easier but I forget now. I have stopped using mesh tape generally because of above reason and I use easy sand light compound from beginning to end. Most of the 2300 ft2 ceiling and walls are smooth. Thank you all in advance.
ps. search for this product did not come up with a lot of discussion.

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  1. User avater
    Jeff_Clarke | Mar 26, 2009 03:36pm | #1

    Do you know about Nu Wall?  - http://www.spec-chem.com/nuwal/index.htm

    Jeff

    1. alwaysoverbudget | Mar 26, 2009 03:40pm | #2

      have you used that nu wall?.if so give us a little review.i've thought about it but was always afraid it would just recrack.larryYOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.

      1. User avater
        Jeff_Clarke | Mar 26, 2009 04:34pm | #4

        Yes, I've used it personally and professionally.   I'm assuming you're doing plaster repairs?   Just make sure that the crack is stabilized (using plaster washers) if more than a hairline.

        Jeff

      2. rjgogo | Mar 26, 2009 08:14pm | #8

        I've used it on several rooms but not on drywall. One of the rooms I used in on was very old horse hair plaster, The walls had a lot of hairline cracks. It has been about 10 years since I made the repairs and not one of the cracks has come back. There was an adjacent room that had only a few small areas that needed repair that I repaired the traditional way and almost all of the cracks came back. Nu-wall is the way to go for old plaster. However, I don't think I would use it on drywall. It is not that much work, you apply the heavy latex stuff to the wall, put the the fiberglass mesh like wall paper and then reapply the latex stuff. It gives a different texture but it really sucks down the plaster walls and holds everything together. Granted you can't use it if the walls are falling down but it the overall structure is sound with just a bunch of cracks it works really well. It is not as smooth as drywall but a pretty fine texture that is only noticeable very close.

    2. k1c | Mar 26, 2009 05:30pm | #5

      Thank you. I have seen something like it before, but my case is not plaster, just about 5 years old drywall. For example, entire 13x21 ceiling is fine for 1 -4' butt joint that shows a hairline. My feeling is I used paper tape here but sanded too close to the tape and the crack I am seeing is separation between the tape and the compound. I was hoping good-bye cracks will bridge this line which is less than 1/32".

  2. woodarama | Mar 26, 2009 03:49pm | #3

    Here's a link to the product Flexall i used in my living room to cover hairline and some bigger cracks. Although it's been only 2 months no cracks have reappeared, time will tell. I didn't use any tape just filled the cracks and sanded. The only complaint is it's a little too wet but i got the hang of using it. I picked it up at Home Depot for about $13 for a gallon.
    http://building-materials.gillroys.com/Mortar_&_Cement/Concrete_patch_and_repair/DAP_FLEXALL_FILLER-s268720.html

    1. k1c | Mar 26, 2009 05:37pm | #6

      Thank you. How did you use it, though? Did you trowel on and try to feather the edge? How was it to sand - if it dries to flexible film, were you able to sand it to smooth and feathered edge that will blend in with rest of the surface? I figured spray-on can be controlled to leave the thinnest film over the crack, but even this I am kind of worried that the film will have dimples in it that will show after painting. Again, thanks.

      1. woodarama | Mar 26, 2009 06:10pm | #7

        i dug the cracks out with a V pointed scraper getting any loose material out. Flexall does shrink a bit so on avg i had to apply 3-4 applications not sanding in between. i used a ros hooked up to a vacuum and sanded flush, i then primed and painted and i'm not able to see where the cracks were. It dries like reg compound and is not soft like a caulk. hth.

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