Replies

1. 
   VaGentinMI | Nov 01, 2003 01:07pm | #1

   can you get to the back of the shower ........ eg. thru a closet? If so, I would open the closet wall up & install a blocker board in thru the back.

1. 
   MJR | Nov 01, 2003 01:19pm | #2

   Learningjim, The back of the shower is the outside of the house. I guess I was trying to avoid removing siding ect. Was hoping someone had this problem and found a solution other than ripping and tearing. Mike

1. 
   VaTom | Nov 01, 2003 02:32pm | #3

   Not a grab bar, but I once successfully used expanding foam insulation in a similar situation.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Nov 01, 2003 03:13pm | #4

   There was an article in FHB a few years back about installing grab bars, and he mentioned (I think) what you can do if you don't have blocking available.  I block the snot out of a stall before installing the shower, but that doesn't help you now.  I'll do a search after I return tonight, though someone else might already have found it.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
3. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Nov 01, 2003 07:06pm | #5

   First you have to find the studs.  Probably easier said than done depending on the gap.  Your bars have to screw into the studs if there is no proper blocking.  Get grab bars with large flanges, usually not a problem.  Use a hole saw to cut 2 inch holes and save the cutouts.  Measure the gap to the studs and find an appropriate shim, 6 inches or a foot long.  Mark the center.  Goop it up with glue and work it through the hole.  Use an awl or something to pull it down so the center mark is someplace near the hole center.  Epoxy the cutout back in place.  Screw on the bar.  The flanges will cover the ugly part.  The epoxy will keep any water from getting behind. 

   You can also roto-zip out a big section, like 4 by 32 or more.  However long you want the bar plus a few.  Install real blocking and epoxy a large finish trim piece on top.  Bevel the edges so it looks decorative and reasonably like it is supposed to be that way.  Corian or PVC or something equivalent, maybe 8 inches by whatever.

4. 
   vineyrdbuilt | Nov 01, 2003 08:44pm | #6

   Mike,

   Measue the flange of the grab bar at the end, where you anchor it to the wall.  Buy a hole saw that is at least as big as the circumfrence of the three or four screw holes.  This should be smaller than the outside dimension of the flange inself and at least a 1/2" smaller than the finishing trim plate.

   Find your studs above the fiberglass shower surround using either small nails or a stud finder.  Check after using a stud finder with small nails, to be sure it is framing, *go lightly here*.  Plum down, find your height off the tub floor and subtract the distance from top of bar to center, that is the center of the hole you will drill with the hole saw.  Drill the hole.  Now measure from back of surround to framing, or to the sheet rock.  You shouldn't have to cut the sheetrock away from the framing. 

   If your grab bar doesn't line up with framing, line one side of it upwith framing, and get 75 or 100 lb anchors to use in the sheetrock behind the surround.  These anchors are threaded and will just screw into the sheetrock.  Make sure to line them up with the flange holes when screwing them into the wall.

   At this point cut two retangular blocks of plywood (could be pressure treated if you desire)that is half the thickness of the distance back, that is slightly bigger than the hole lengthwise but just slightly smaller widthwise.  This will allow you to slip them in the hole.  Center them in the opening. 

   Predrill using the same drill pattern found on the flange, if you feel it is nessasary.  It may make it easier, although the plywood should accept screws just fine. 

   Caulk between the flange and the block, allowing plenty to squeeze out covering seam. this will seal flange-to block, with fiberglass sandwiched in between the two.  Now caulk around flange and at all screw holes, allow to dry and attach plate.

   Finishio......secure, sealed grab-bar for FIL

5. 
   steveh | Nov 02, 2003 12:03am | #7

   check out this product WingIts Basically a really heavy duty Toggle bolt type of bracket .

   I used the in my folks bathroom .Worked well .

   They have a web site but I cann't recall the url ,ph# is 877-894-6448.

   People on the phone and in warehouse were very helpful.

6. 
   Derr82 | Nov 02, 2003 03:37am | #8

   Home Depot sells  grab bars  that needs no studs or backer

7. 
   4Lorn2 | Nov 02, 2003 05:12am | #9

   No specific advice but you can often stiffen and reinforce a wall that lacks blocking by filling the stud space with a spray foam like "Great Stuff". Once filled, especially if you mist the interior with water - These foams harden by absorbing water so moist surfaces adhere quickly and solidly - the wall surfaces are bonded together to make a stress skin structure that is quite rigid. Use some care and judgment when foaming you want to allow the foam to fill the space without the walls bulging out because of the pressure.

   I sometimes use this method to hang electrical boxes in plaster or drywall to delicate to hold the box otherwise. A wall you can barely touch without a finger going through become rigid and strong. The difference can be remarkable.

1. 
   MJR | Nov 02, 2003 01:27pm | #10

   Thank You all for your great ideas I will be starting on monday think Im going to go with the hole saw and spacer. Once again thank you for all ideas.  Mike