Any ideas on effective ways (if there are any) to secure grab bars on a one-piece bath enclosure? Can’t hit a stud and the fiberglass feels so flimsy that even if I use something like wing-its I don’t know how solid it’s going to feel.
Thanks for any help on this.
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By the way, I did search past messages and read through many, many posts. The ones dealing with fiberglass enclosures seemed to have an issue with the gap between the fiberglass and the studs. In my case, the studs are at the corners behind the curved part of the enclosure. The middle area is hollow.
If the fiberglass is thick enough then you can use WingIts fasteners: http://www.wingits.com/
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If there is a solid wall some distance behind the fiberglass, there is also an adjustable standoff that can be used, inserted through a hole in the FG, then fastened to the solid wall. Don't have a reference for this, though.
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Also, if you have access to the back you can glue plywood to the back of the enclosure and then screw the bars to that.
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Thanks for the suggestions, Dan. Wingits are great- I've used them before on tile walls but I'm not sure about the thickness of this fiberglass. It feels pretty flimsy. I'll check into the standoffs you mentioned also. No way to get access behind the enclosure that I can see, but I'll be over there this afternoon for another look. Much appreciated.
I have used the WingIts on FG before, and they produced a very solid feel. This was a fairly good quality enclosure, though (even if, I'll admit, the thickness where the anchors were installed did not meet the spec minimums).One thing you can do, if you're still nervous, is use a "combination" bar (L-shaped, with three mount points, like this http://estore.websitepros.com/stores/1177394/images/InitialSet/combo-bars.jpg ). This will add considerable stiffness and additional security.--------------
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Take the trim plate off the controls and you can check the thickness of the shower.But if it is flimsy it might not be FG, but a plastic material.
Lots of tub/shower stuff is acrylic now. Thicker than FG but seems more brittle to me too. I guess the upside is that it's easier to do patch and repair on acrylic.
It seems to me like a clever guy could get some backing in behind a stall if he drilled a hole big enough to slide something in. The trim plates on the last set of grab bars I installed were probably at least 2-1/2" in diameter. A 1" hole drilled (hole saw) thru the FG would allow you to slide a piece of flat steel in, maybe 3/4" wide, 6" long, and 1/8" or 3/16" thick (thick enough to drill and tap). Use some silicone to glue it in place to the back of the stall, and when dry come back and use machine screws to install the grab bar.
You won't break any productivity records doing this, but it'll git'er done.
But how would that differ from using the WingIts?--------------
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I appreciate the comments. The fiberglass is hair thicker than 1/4". I'm leaning towards the Wing-its right now. But I'll look into the Fine Homebuilding article and the other options mentioned too. Thank you all so much.
I haven't seen those, but if they're what I think they are, the load they create is basically a point load (two, actually) where the tip of the anchor contacts the back of the wall. I could be wrong, but none of the typical hollow wall fasteners that I've seen would be suitable for grab bars in 1/4" FG.
They expand with six "fingers" to spread the load in a roughly 4" diameter circle. Much different from the standard toggle bolt.--------------
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Too late now, but if you wanted grab bars you needed blocking behind the stall for them... or install them to the fiberglass with large fender washers before installing the unit. I suppose if the wall you're dealing with is an interior wall you could look at taking the sheetrock off the other side and adding the blocking.
We do a lot of grab bars and frankly if you don't have blocking installed I sure wouldn't want to install one on a glass tub and be liable for it's use. Might work if it was just yours but for a client I frankly wouldn't consider it. One person grab that thing in a moment of need and it fail the law suit would be long and hard. Just my opinion. DanT
What's on the other side of that wall? Just an idea, but I was wondering if you could use threaded rod and go all the way through the wall to the other side and put some sort of chair rail or whatever to hold the nuts and spread the load. Be ideal if there were a closet on the other side.
I appreciate the additional feedback. This is an exterior wall, with 24" o.c. steel framing. The studs fall inconveniently on the curved sections of the enclosure. The enclosure is a walk-in type, and the client would like a grab bar on the short wall, the one with the shower control, to hold as they go in and out of the shower. If this can't be done safely, I won't take any chances. Thank you for all the advice.
Once again, if the FG is sound and at least (IIRC) 1/4" thick then WingIts are certified to meet government spec loading requirements. I installed bars on my 93-year-old aunt's enclosure where the FG was only 1/8" in spots, and I have no doubt that the anchors could meet and probably double the loading spec. Once those anchors are in the only way the thing is going to fail is if the entire side of the enclosure cracks open.
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s,
Its probably been at least a couple of years now, but either Fine Homebuilding or TOH had a pretty good article on retrofitting grab bars in fiberglass showers. If I remember, the writer had some pretty good tricks on how to do it. Might want to search the old issues and see if you can find it.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
Jan 2001 Fine Homebuilding
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md