Where are they?
On the project the engineer has spec’d 6by6 posts, several 4by6 beams and a whopper 6by10 beam. These framing members are supposed to be #1 or better. I can actually read a grade stamp the problem is, is that I can’t find a stamp on ANY of these pieces of lumber…
So stupid questions do they not grade stamp lumber this big? I can see the stamps on all the new 2by6 studs.
Am I just really unlucky and the stamps are all up where I can’t see them and or in the cut-off pile?
There’s knots, checking, and wane on a lot of these pieces which I wasnt expecting to see on #1 lumber.
Daniel Neumansky
Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA. Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/
Oakland CA
Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer
Replies
Keep looking, including all the cut off scraps pieces.
If it was graded it will have a stamp.
Where did you purchase the lumber? Maybe you should look at the stack of #1 6x6's (for example) at the lumber yard, and then compare the general quality (and any paint colors on the end grain, etc.) and see if what you got matches up with what you should have got.
Sometimes, when you place an order for specific lengths, even standard lengths, the yard may cut your stock out of longer stock. (They may have a truck load of 20 footers just for that purpose).
The cut ends from a mill should look the same on both ends, where a yard cut order may have been done with a chainsaw or a circular saw with a different diameter and tooth set than the trim saws used in a sawmill.
Usually the grade stamps are on one end and, in your case may have ended up in the remnant pile.
I would suggest that, in the future you go to the yard and hand pick the pieces you want, especially with post and beam stock. A limited amount of wane is allowed in #1 as are knots and pitch pockets, etc., but it may not be suitable in you application for appearance reasons if nothing else.
Occasionally, I've had a building inspector check the grade stamps, which they should; no different than checking the watermark on tempered glass.
When I had my portable mill, I cut a lot of structural stuff for myself and customers and I had the basic grade stamps and the certification, but if your material came from a Mom/Pop mill, they may not have had the grading cerification (It's a bit hard to come by and the stamps are fairly expensive).
If that's the case and the BI calls you on it, you may have to hire a certified grader to grade your posts and beams.
Personally, if you're unhappy with them, not only for the missing grade stamps, but for the appearance (if they're to be exposed) I'd tell the yard to come get them and replace them with stuff you hand pick.
I believe all 6 x's are number 1 and better. They are at Golden State. Your lumber salesman will know.
My opinion is that you should always use engineered lumber for large beams such as your 6 x 10. You will eliminate any shrinkage and the related problems. This is especially true on an old house where the existing lumber is already dry. I've made that mistake.
John
Edited 12/28/2007 1:08 pm ET by JohnCujie
Check the invoice and see what they shipped.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Invoice doesn't tell you what they shipped, it tells you what they charged you for.
Ozlander
Yeah, and if you can show you didn't get what you paid for, then that bolsters your case for having the yard pay for the replacement. And it does show the customer that you ordered the right product."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
http://www2.wwpa.org/SERVICES/AboutWWPA/GradeStamps/tabid/434/Default.aspx
Go here, scroll down to get their online tech guide.
Then grade it yourself
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