Replies

1. 
   steve | Nov 28, 2003 12:42am | #1

   tile over plastic laminate is chancy at best even more so with big tiles

   first the substrate isnt thick enough at 5/8, plus the slick laminate will not adhere to thinset

   considering the cost of the tile and the labour involved, a new substrate or at least backer board over the laminate would be cheap insurance

   1/2 inch backer board secured with deck screws to the countertop would be a minimum

   if its a postformed top, you will also have to deal with the back splash and front nosing

   caulking is not a piece of trim

2. 
   DennisS | Nov 28, 2003 07:57am | #2

   Fred -

   There are mastics around that could be used to glue the tile to the laminate - but I'd run a belt sander over the laminate first to give it some tooth for the mastic to adhere to. *Don't* use thin set mortar over the laminate! If you can still find a solvent based tile mastic, that's all I would personally want to use. Even the emulsion tile mastics are not, in my humble opinion, totally waterproof. And like it or no, you *will* have water through the grout joints at some time of the other.

   The premium installation procedure would be to glue and screw down at least 1/4" hardi-backer type board then thinset the tile. But you'll be adding probably something like 3/4"(?) to the ht of the countertop. This may not seem like much but my wife and I are both height challenged and a 36" standard countertop is about all we can live with.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   Sancho | Nov 28, 2003 07:43pm | #3

   Yea like Dennis said, you must rough up the surface first. Then glue/screw some hardibacker down. But why not just remove the counter top and do it the right way? Attach some exterior grade 3/4 ply then hardibacker then the tile. If you need to build it up the 2 pieces of ply. Then add your matching wood or buy some granite edging to cover the edge and your in business...   

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

1. 
   FredRubin | Nov 29, 2003 07:38am | #6

   Thanks for the "do it the right way" comment and I generally would do that, but I have a complicated counter that took days to install when I put it in years ago and I also have a very nice tile backsplash that would have to come out if I replace the whole counter. Also, I had a lot more energy when I first built it. Age has taken its toll and any more than laying down the granite is more than I want to do. Thanks again.

2. 
   FredRubin | Nov 29, 2003 07:35am | #5

   Thanks Dennis--good tips. I might have to experiment with adding 5/8" to the counter height. Might not be a problem for me, but my girlfriend is 5'0" and has trouble with the standard 36". Thanks again.

1. 
   DennisS | Nov 29, 2003 09:48am | #7

   Fred -

   I think one of the previous comments about the 5/8" plywood base (I missed in your original post) is also a concern (of mine). While counter tops aren't like work benches that get pounded on constantly, you do have to keep in mind that on occasion they do take a thump of one kind of the other. Wood will deflect quite easily. Tile and grout do not. Even a little. So if you have any spans like over the dishwasher that are weak, you may end up with some grout cracking out after a time.

   Back when I actually did tile work for a living, the shop I worked for would never install tile on a counter top in anything but a drypack mud bed at least 1" thick. That was over a 3/4" plywood subtop as well.

   Any more I'm in the same boat as you - much less energy than I had 40 years ago. But then, I've got more time now! (grin)

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   FredRubin | Nov 29, 2003 08:16pm | #9

   The original top was 3/4" industrial part.bd.--you know the material that is 97"x49". I don't think that deflection will be a problem and I was thinking of using epoxy grout or at least latex-added grout. I think I'll experiment with a piece of 1/4" backer-board glued/screwed to a piece of old plast. lam. If that holds well, it might be time to get started. Thanks.

3. 
   CloudHidden | Nov 29, 2003 03:06am | #4

   When I used good granite tile on a floor, I found that the thickness was just approx and varied from tile to tile. Makes getting a consistent and smooth surface a bit of effort.

4. 
   earl06 | Nov 29, 2003 04:43pm | #8

   is there a reason you wish to keep the laminate?

   if you remove it and put down some 3/4" ply with some backer on top it'll be bomber. you can even do it without the backer in a pinch if the ply is good enough.

   this way it's easy to put some trim or moulding on the outside edge. if the laminate is still there, the nosing must be wider or clunkier-looking to hide it.

   earl

   "He who xxxxs nuns will later join the church." -The Clash