Gravel Parking Pad (not really a driveway)
First, let me know if there is a better place to post this.
Second, I read several posts about driveways, but mine isn’t exactly the the same…
I have a strip of grass, long and wide enough to park a car. It is off an alley.
Next to one side, is an existing pad of concrete. Have no idea what is inside or under the concrete. It is either a cover for a cistern (house is built in 1920) or a pad for a little garden shed. It is not big enough to park on, nor would I really want to (I plan on putting a shed up there, for lawnmower and wheelbarrel).
This concrete pad is about 4 inches above the grass. Any gravel would need to come level with this, so as to not tear up tires. heh.
On the other side is a chain link fence.
A friend says, just throw down some gravel. Er, I tend to think I should check with you all first.
Basically, the question boils down to:
Do I need to excavate, if i am just gonna add enough to bring it level with the existing concrete pad? Or can I simply bring in loads of what is needed and start putting it on top of the grass?
Secondary questions are regarding decorative gravel (the area is perfectly flat, off a perfectly flat ally, adjacent to a perfectly flat peice of land. “Flat” is the total description of the topography. :-))
So grateful to have you folks here to turn to — you’ve never steered me wrong!
Replies
Just place it.
The only down side I see is the potential for the grass to come up trhough it.
Put down a weed blocker, under the gravel, apply herbicieds as necessary, and you should be fine.
Assuming you have relatively stable soil with decent drainage, just dump some gravel on it and it should be satisfactory for a parking pad. You are just parking on it, not driving over it at 20-30 MPH. The weed block fabric (ask for a "geotextile fabric" at a lumber yard) will help keep the potential mud from the native soil from contaminating the gravel during wet times. I have done this with some pretty good pit run gravel (in the country next to a farm shop) and had good luck. Remember, when working with gravel: if you want the fines to come to the top, work it wet. If you want the coarse material on top, work it fairly dry. With my pit run, I spread, worked and packed during a 2 inch spring soaker, and the top looks like sized pea gravel. All the big stuff went to the bottom. If you are getting a sized crushed gravel or if there is a lot of dirt in it, you will probably work it pretty dry so that the rocks will come to the top and the fines will migrate down. If you only have 4 inches to fill, you will probably get some crushed gravel instead of pit run.
Another thing to consider - in the town where I live, converting grass to parking (gravel, concrete, whatever) requires a permit. You might want to check on that before you start, or you'll find out if your neighbors really like you or just pretend to.
Summary and Good Points!
A Serious LOL to the reply about the permit, and finding out if your nieghbors like you or not. Good point!
I agree completely, and tell all my friends, the weed barrier is, in every situation, a TOTAL WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY. Howver, I suspected it might add stability to a driveway, but had not considered the mud factor. Good info.
I have concluded I need to also speak with several local supplier to see what they offer, and what they think will stabilize and give the best performance.
So, armed with your all's info, I'll go a-calling and see what they have to say on the subject as well.
here's to hoping I don't need a permit!!
You need at least 4" for
You need at least 4" for stability. And you need to be sure it's crushed rock -- anything resembling river rock or pea gravel will just roll around and not lock together.
There is a product called "reclaim", recycled asphalt. Excellent for gravel drives, packs down nicely, eliminates loose rocks that you have with ordinary gravel, doesn't get soaked or wash away, no sand to track, inexpensive. Too tight for grass and weeds to grow.