The rigid foam insulation is on its way for the basement finishing project.
PL300 seems to be the recommended adhesive of choice to get the stuff on the walls. The warning list on this stuff is long…explosive…cancerous…brain melting…
Given that it’s November in MN and I really would prefer NOT to have to open all the basement windows and turn of the furnace pilot light, are there any alternatives on the market?
A rear addition provides a small-scale example of how to frame efficiently.
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Replies
liquid nails which is much more evil and doesn't work nearly as well....
mechanical fasteners...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Spray polyurethene foam from cans.
Just spray a bead, slap up the foam panel, hold it there 2-3 minutes, done!
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I used some latex foam in a can this year. The stuff was like shaving cream, and when dried was really some weak stuff. Worked for sealing gaps OK, but it was not what I expected. It did wash off with soap and water, so no mess. Ever use any? I forgot the name of it, came from Lowes.
I've tried that stuff of a few occaisions. As far as I'm concerned it sux and I'm really not sure what it is good for.
I haven't really used the latex yet.The Enerfoam is originally formulatred as a structural adhesive for sheetrock.The article Andy Engle did on finishing basements shows him using his favorite brand.
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Which was...?
Just gotta watch the brand. I used DAP for a couple things on my house, and it's junk. I avoid the Great Stuff from HD because it ain't. The ones I've has success with have been Touch 'n Foam, which makes several kinds - the stuff in the green can is very sticky and high expansion. I also used Wind-Lock foam to glue all my ICF's together and that worked pretty well. Touch 'n Foam makes a window and door foam in a purple can which is soft and white, a low-expansion foam which is good for smaller gaps (red can), and now they have a fireblock foam as well. They also make several gun foams and have some pretty decent guns available, but I've only used the stuff in a self-dispensing can.
Watch expiration dates carefully. Buy from a supplier that turns the stuff over quickly, or you will get #### in a can and it won't come out very well.
I like Enerfoam best but lately have been using the Touch'N'Foam because it is available and higher turnover
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I like the 2-3 minute 'set' time. Sounds like there's several brands to avoid. Any to focus on?Dap and GreatStuff have both been mentioned as 'stay away'. Alas, that's all we find in the big boxes. Will check the smaller hardware stores.If I do stick with PL300...how serious are they about the explosive warning? Did someone spray it into their gas furnace once causing the warning, or is it seriously an issue of turning off all pilot lights for 24 hours?
I'm actually surprised to hear it labeled dangerous. I think of it as being about as toxic as chewing gum, not that I would put it in my mouth either.The other tube type construction adhesives are potent enough that they will dissolve the foam, that is why the 300 is developed to be less so. There is probably some minimal amt of VOC in the mix so it will flow out of the tube.I think I have a photo of Andy at the trade show here...
yes doing his demo, but the label on the can is not legible. Maybe somebody recognizes it from the label style and colour
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somebody(s) doing a collective CTA's????
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
CYA on the label of the PL300??
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not yours ... theirs....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
gotcha
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if this is going to be encased in the walls anyway, and you just need it to hold the rigid stuff in place long enough to get the sheetrock up and to seal around the edges, it doesn't have to be super-sticky adhesive, right? i'm no expert of course, but it seems like you could go with the greener, weaker stuff in this situation.
Also, cutting the rigid stuff a tad big would work too, yes? big enough to fit snug with a bead of foam around the edges to seal?
Edited 11/19/2007 10:55 am ET by msm-s
well, being that this is DIY in my spare time, the stuff will have to stick to the walls for a few weeks sans studs.It's going to be two layers of EPS (1" and 1.5")
maybe mark and matt can reply whether the stuff they used would last that long; i'm thinking maybe even bad stuff might hold a month. if not, cutting it to fit snug works pretty well. it doesn't have to be perfect, just big enough to cram into place. again, seal with foam insulation where there's any gaps--
Try Loctite PowerGrab (exterior, heavy duty formulation). It has high initial tack--so it will hold the foamboard in place, water cleanup, no odor, etc.http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=45&subid=113&plid=662available at Lowes and Menards.