I recently remodeled two condos. I had bathroom wall and floor, and hall floor tile professionally installed. The new owners are complaining that the grout that meets the tub (old cast iron), front and back door thresholds (old aluminum) and bathroom windows (new vinyl) is “cracking and flaking”. I don’t know much about tile/grout installation, but I’m wondering if the installer should have caulked instead of grouting those joints, as the thermal expansion of those materials would be different from the tile/grout and would make cracking nearly inevitable – is this correct? If so, or if not, what is the solution – re-grout, remove grout and install caulk, or something else?
Thanks!
Replies
Caulking is preferred for just the reason you experienced. The best solution would be to gently chip out as much of the grout in the joint as you can (without cracking everything around it), and caulk. I recommend a siliconized acrylic latex caulk. I don't like straight silicone for many reasons.
I second what Wayne said. Grout is rigid and won't flex between two disimilar substances. Go with the latex caulk.
color matched to the grout - caulk, but you knew that. Check with your tile distributor.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Hi
Grout is not flexible!. Two things that help. Use tape to define where you want the caulking, then put water in the tub to sink it down also with your weight standing in it. You want the silicone with the fungicide in it to inhibit mildew. Then run a bead of the silicone and use a wet finger or plastic corner tool along the tape caulk joint. Peel off the tape and you have one smooth job!
Cheers
Mac
Sanded caulk.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934