Grouting – Can I grout on top of grout?
Streamline
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
The tile setter did a great job on my marble floor, but the grout work is not to my satisfaction. I prefer a grout job that is more level with the marble surface rather than a dip. There is too much of a concave (cup) in the grout between the stones, allowing water and debris to pool in it when people come in from the rain. I would like to regrout right over his grout job. He uses Latacrete unsanded grout 2 weeks ago, and I want to come right over this grout with Latacrete Spectraloc 2-part epoxy grout (without removing the old grout). Is this advisable? Would the shallowness of the 2nd grout cause it to be weak – or would the Spectraloc bind with the first grout to create a strong layer of grout?
Replies
dig out the old grout and redo it for all the negative reasons you gave plus a feww more...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
+1 on that. It's only 2 weeks old, it'll come right out.
I had the same problem in our new house 20 years ago. I had white grout that was too low between the tiles and I didn't like the color.
Not knowing any better and figuring anything would be an improvement, I just grouted over the existing grout with a much darker grout.
20 years later, in this heavily used area, there is not one sign of grout flaking, chipping or any other failure. It looks like the day I re-did it way back then.
The grout was mixed with the latex additive both times.
I'm not recommending this, just giving you my experience with this in my own house. I have not done this before or since, but I can see why you wouldn't want to remove all of the grout.
Why not try it. If it doesn't work for you, then you can remove all of the grout.
The area in our home that I regrouted was about 500 sq. ft. in the heavily traveled main kitchen, hallways, and entry areas.
I would be reluctant to use epoxy grout over the existing because if it does fail, you'll have a real hard time removing the epoxy.
How many grout lines are there? If it's not a lot, I would remove the existing, or at least dig it down so the epoxy gets a decent key hold. If removing the old grout is an overwhelming task, I would just top it off with the same type.
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Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.net
See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
I was going to stay out of this one, but I would like to mention one consideration.
If the desired change is to go to epoxy grout, I think a total approach is the best option, rather than a filling in of the ditch that was unacceptable. If standard grout is used, there is no great risk in filling in to get the surface where the HO wants it.
I guess I am saying the same thing as you said with different words. I am respectfully saying it anyway because sometimes the obvious is the hardest thing to see.
Ditto! :D--------------------------------------------------------
Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
thanks all for your comments. I am going to remove some of the old layer by roughening it up and get more depth for the epoxy. I'll let you know how it came out.
Glad we could help. :)
Before you start you may want to pick up a carbide scoring tool like this...
View Image View Image
The photos are from an article I wrote for ehow.com, in which I'm using it to open cracks in old plaster. I also use it to dig out old grout. I found it near the drywall tools, as it was originally meant for scoring Durock backer board. But I think a lot of store stock it in the tile tools as well.
You must be very careful using this tool, as it will easily gouge the surface of the hardest tile, marble or even granite. But it's the fastest tool I know of for scoring and/or removing grout.
Don't forget to let us know how it works out, and any other questions you might have.
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Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Edited 6/11/2008 2:51 am by Ted W.
Ted,
Thanks for the tip. I checked out your work. Man, you do nice work. I wish more people protect projects like you do with paper and blue tapes as you do on the stairs. Very nice work!!!
Ha ha...
I do protect my work, but what you see is the painters' doing. I tried to get the photo before they covered it up, but they were too quick for me.
Thanks for the kind words. Those photos represent the just highlights of my work. Mostly I spend my days doing simple, less picturesque repairs. But, I guess that's why they call it work. :)
By the way, here's that article at ehow.com.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2070730_permanently-repair-cracked-plaster-walls.html
I might write a few more if I ever find the time.
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Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Edited 6/11/2008 3:35 am by Ted W.
I have over grouted lots of tile with no problems. Use a grout saw to roughen up the existing surface to get better adhesion.
Also a good idea to mosten the existing grout before applying the new, so it doesn't draw the moisture from the new grout too quickly. It should also be mostened a few times a day for a few days to help it fully cure.
Needless to say, this does not apply if you use epoxy grout. --------------------------------------------------------
Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com