So the front of the porch roof is getting 60′ of 6″ aluminum K gutter with outside miters on both ends, one side is 30′ the other 40′.
From a visual standpoint since it’s the front of the house and the gutter is relatively low I’d like one 60′ continuos length with hidden hangers.
But the movement caused by expansion and contraction of the 60′ with attached side gutters on each end is a bit of concern and the longest I’ve heard recommended for one continuos length is 40′.
So then from a durability stand point I’m thinking about a expansion gap between two section of gutter as Andy described in his FHB article a few months ago and brackets instead of hidden hangers.
Any suggestions ?
Thanks, Mike S.
FWIW: the porch is 7’6″ with the roof extending 1’8″ beyond that, personally I’d rather not have the gutter, but it’s code around here.
Replies
It might not be relevant but steel has approximately half the coefficient of expansion of aluminum.
4LORN1
Thanks for the idea. Mike
It's O.k. to think out of the box, Just don't walk off of the plank!
My supplier has expansion joints that I put in gutters over 40 feet long. They work pretty well if you use a good gutter sealent. If you use an expansion joint, try to keep it from landing over an entrance or sidewalk approach. If it does leak, everyone gets dripped on as they pass under it. Equal lenghts of gutter on each side of the joint work best, but cheating a few feet to keep it out of a traffic path is fine, just don't go much beyond 3 feet.
Dave
Dave,
Is the expansion joint you use also known as a "slip joint" or does it have some type of gasket?
Mike S.
It's O.k. to think out of the box, Just don't walk off of the plank!
Edited 7/12/2002 8:48:59 AM ET by Mike S
Edited 7/12/2002 8:49:36 AM ET by Mike S
I thought gutter expansion joints are sealed by gaskets. If you use any sealants, wouldn't that limit the movement? Good point not to locate it over traffic, if it leaks a little, so what. This guy didn't want gutter in the first place anyway :-)
Tom
MOOOOOOOOOOO!Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
I've been using geocel for caulk/sealant on joints like these. I got my confidence in it confirmed this past month when I went to do an addition to a house we built three years ago. When removing trim from around a window, I found how well that stuff sticks and it stretches at least 800% like a rubber band before it pops.
Excellence is its own reward!
Geocel 2300 is definately the stuff. I use it for expansion joints in copper and galvanized gutter. Applies in all temperatures, but everything must be totally dry for it to adhere properly.
gl
Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest. Mark Twain
Hey---Piffen and Grant Logan. I have been using Geocel for years also---but that last month has me wondering...... It seems to me that Geocel applied in the heat of the day "melts" and "sags" on vertical applications more than it ever used to. Almost like the formula has been changed. I love the stuff,but it seems a little runny now-----have you noticed the same?
only on really hot days or hot metal like clad alluminum windows. I don't expose it much where it will run though. Usually in back side of a joint eg. caulk up against window casing just before placing clapboard siding in place. That way it isn't seen but does its job. Excellence is its own reward!
Yeah, It runs a little and sets slower when its hot. I usually apply it a little sparingly when its hot and recoat later. For gutter joints, I caulk first and then apply the brushable sealant (2300).
gl
I have made good judgements in the Past. I have made good judgements in the Future. Dan Quayle