Replies

1. 
   Frankie | Apr 17, 2006 03:16pm | #1

   http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/PSCL_PT.html

   Frankie
2. 
   Tomrocks21212 | Apr 17, 2006 03:16pm | #2

   They're meant to be placed in the middle of the space between the rafters or trusses. I've never nailed them, just placed them over the lower sheet and slipped the upper sheet into them. Not a one-man job.

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Apr 17, 2006 04:31pm | #3

   When you place the clips, point the small tabs upward toward the ridge. Place the edge of the ply or OSB a couple of inches above the clips, line up the sheet where you want it with the rafters or trusses, place your toes against the sheet and lower it away from you. As it gets further away than your arms can reach, hook it with you hammers claw and lower it further. Use your toes to jockey the edge of the sheet into the clips and when all the clips are engaged, drop the sheet. You have to engage the clips while the sheet is still at an angle.

   A one man operation.

    

1. 
   Tomrocks21212 | Apr 17, 2006 04:54pm | #4

   Okay, I suppose what I meant is that it's not an easy one-man job, especially for someone who doesn't work with this stuff frequently.

2. 
   JPSzcz | Apr 17, 2006 08:18pm | #5

   RalphWicklund -Thanks for the one-man operation description, but I have one thing I want to calrify in it. In your description, where am I standing? On the roof itself, facing the sheathing?JPS
   http://www.theworkshopproject.com
   =================================

1. 
   JasonPharez | Apr 18, 2006 12:34am | #6

   Yes JP you're standing on the sheathing course just below the one you're installing.

   Another tip, if your rafter spacing is 24" instead of 16" stand on the sheathing over the rafters, not in between. This will decrease the chances of the sheet you're standing on bowing down, which will make clip insertion on the sheet above difficult.

   One last tip: When you deck the roof, tack the top of the sheet down at every rafter...leave the heads sticking up some. If you have a sheet that's just a hair short/long, instead of cutting it, you can pull the nail on that rafter and push or pull the rafter until the end of the sheet is centered on it.

   Nail it off after everything's tacked in place...snap lines if you have to.

    Jason Pharez Construction

       Framing Contractor

1. 
   JPSzcz | Apr 18, 2006 03:40am | #7

   Jason -Thanks for the tip on the push/pulling the rafter. That's a good one too.JPS
   http://www.theworkshopproject.com
   ===============================================

2. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Apr 18, 2006 04:13am | #8

   I wouldn't get too excited about that tip JP. Nails that aren't set flush are trip hazards.

   I wouldn't allow anyone to intentionally leave the heads out on a roof.

   blue 

3. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Apr 18, 2006 04:14am | #9

   TRIP HAZARD ALERT!

   One last tip: When you deck the roof, tack the top of the sheet down at every rafter...leave the heads sticking up some. If you have a sheet that's just a hair short/long, instead of cutting it, you can pull the nail on that rafter and push or pull the rafter until the end of the sheet is centered on it

   blue 

4. 
   RalphWicklund | Apr 18, 2006 04:40am | #10

   When I drop a sheet into place I tack it down at the two corners next to the previous sheet. That way it's not going to move as I move the rafters or trusses left or right (say, 2' on center). Depending on the job I will pull my o/c measurements as I go or premark the sheet and then tack the top of the sheet at each rafter and drive it home. Go back to the bottom of the sheet and tack it home. Now you have ten nails in the sheet and it's flush with the rest of them and you go to the next sheet and repeat.

   When it's all sheeted I go back and whale away with the gun. If you can't eyeball a straight line between two nails tacked a little less than 48" apart then you can snap some lines or use a straightedge to help you out.

   Inspectors don't like to see shiners from below as they look over your nailoff so a line is often very helpful.

    

5. 
   markgibbesh | Apr 18, 2006 06:41am | #11

   In my area H clips are only required when the sheathing is 24" o.c. not required for 12 or 16" o.c.

6. 
   DonNH | Apr 18, 2006 07:17am | #12

   I think that's the requirement here, too.

   I'll be doing my garage with 16" spacing, 5/8 plywood.  Would H-clips be overkill in this situation or just cheap insurance?

   Don

    

7. 
   markgibbesh | Apr 18, 2006 07:22am | #13

   Hi Don!

   Around here we can't even get  h clips for 5/8" sheathing. Having said that most often it is 1/2" spruce ply or 7/16" osb.

   I have heard of using 5/8" T&G ply for a flat roof deck. I personally thinnk that clips with 5/8" is overkill for a sloped roof.

8. 
   BillBrennen | Apr 18, 2006 08:13am | #14

   Overkill with 5/8" at 16" o.c., even for a quality freak like myself.Bill

9. 
   Soultrain | Apr 18, 2006 08:44pm | #17

   That's what I did (used clips w/ 5/8" @ 16" OC) - my dad keeps asking when my nuclear power plant will be complete...

10. 
    oceanstatebuilderinc | Apr 18, 2006 01:23pm | #15

    Here in Southeast NC, we use H-clips not only for structual reasons, but also for the 1/8 inch gap between the sheets. When used for spacing, we only place 2 clips per piece, one at each end. Yeah I know what you guys are saying, just use a nail gap. Its just faster and more uniform.Ocean State Builders, Inc.

2. 
   Soultrain | Apr 18, 2006 08:42pm | #16

   Here's what I did on my roof (DIY'er using H-clips for the first time):

   1) Set the sheet in the spot where it will end up.

   2) Tilt sheet up @ one end & insert hammer underneath to get a gap.

   3) put clips on the sheet below

   4) remove hamme & work top sheet into clips one at a time.

3. 
   JohnSprung | Apr 18, 2006 09:05pm | #18

   Since this is for yourself, if you want to put some more time into it and get a much stronger roof, forget the H-clips.  Run blocking under all the edges.  If you're in earthquake or high wind country, that's worth doing. 

    

    

   -- J.S.

    

1. 
   JasonPharez | Apr 19, 2006 09:39pm | #19

   Blue,

   Geez don't take my advice personally man.

   I've used this technique on every house I've framed, and never once have tripped b/c of this.

   We're not talking more than 1/4" above the plywood surface, and after I've tacked the course above it down, I'll normally swat the last course's nails down tight.

   Those tacks do tend to snag my extension cord when I'm cutting off the hips, though.Jason Pharez Construction

       Framing Contractor