2 questions…
First, Putting in a half wall to end cap one end of a tub, probably going to be ~4′ give or take, Should this be let into the floor and braced against a joist, or boxed in if a joist doesn’t fall in the right place. I think it should be, another guy says it doesn’t have to be b/c the tub will support it..
Second question.
This is just a tub, not a shower, customer is insisitng on beadboard around the tub, I’m concerned about moisture and water, especially on the bottom edge, short of priming and painting all sides, what other steps would you take, is then any different caulk then silicone for the joint?
Thanks
Edited 11/18/2003 8:15:50 PM ET by CAG
Replies
The wall supports the tub, not the other way around, so be sure to let a framing member into the floor to below. And be careful you don't get blamed for any of the other guys bright ideas.
I would backprime the beaded board and seal the butt cuts with epoxy before installing. But there is another good solution. Azec is now marketing a beaded board material. It seems about 3/8" thick and looks pretty darn good. No paint or other special prep needed so you get a better product while saving labor to offset cost of product.
Excellence is its own reward!
Azec is now marketing a beaded board material.
Cool, I needed to waste some of the supplier's time (& coffee)--I'll see if I can nag a sample off of him. Could have some cool applications.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Thanks, that does sound promising.
Do you have a link for the Azec home page?
I can't find it...
http://www.azek.com/dealerlocator.asp
Hope this helps.
This material is available in different widths and lenghts. From the samples I have, it ius easy to mill a beaded detail in it. The texture/grain looks alot like the ultra light mdf board but is made with pvc and whatever else. Cuts with a carving knife alot like soft basswood. I was told that any adhesive that has MEK in it will melt/glue/fuse two pieces together
Migraine,
Thanks for the dealer locator infromation, I found one of my lumber yard carriers it & I will be checking it out . Its amazing all the good stuff we share here in BT.
PJE
Piffin,
The 3/8" bead board you are talking about, I that a sheet good or run off like 3-4" boards?
Thanks for the information as I have a large remodel coming up & we need a bead board wascot in one of the bathrooms.
PJE
The plastic beadboard stuff I have seen is 3/8 x 5 1/2 (not sheets). Looks really good. Great for bathrooms.
Edited 11/19/2003 10:24:47 AM ET by csnow
I have also seen a beadboard tile that is relatively new, but no doubt spendy.
Boards.
I've seen lots of manufacturers do it in MDF sheets but I wouldn't use it in wet locations.
porch soffits is the use I had in mind when I saw it. Any retailer that carries AZEC should be able to get it..
Excellence is its own reward!
I pictured my painter, Dave, yelling at me as I read your question ...
"Just make sure the siliconized caulk is paintable!"
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
I know this much, I do most of the painting for us... on the last addition some genus, yet to come forth, used silicone...non-paintable... PITA
oh you'll like this one...
so I'm demoing this bath today... take the tile down, tile is set on DW with mastic, was starting to come off... so the h/o put a piece of laminate on the wall and used liquid nails to hold over until he could afford the remodel
Tile came right down, drywall in back of the tile came down, underneath that layer was another layer of DW which was rotted all to hell.. nothing left but the 2 sides of paper the middle gypsum was gone... underneath that.. a layer of plaster and finally beneath the plaster was OLD bead board.... in the walls between the stud cavities was bricks.. boss stopped by and asked what was taking so long.
Had to point him to the back of the truck and showed him all that had to be carted off...
all he said was..."damn didn't have it in the bid for that...
another day, another dollar, literally... un-expected raise today... good thing too, kept me from getting to aggravated when I found layer upon layer upon layer of crap to take out..haven't gotten to the sub-floor yet, 3-4 layers, and the joist are all cut to hell.
don't ask what we found under the cabinets in the toe kick... let's just say the guy that lived there in 70's had certain weird .... hmmm... proclivities...
>> don't ask what we found under the cabinets in the toe kick... let's just say the guy that lived
>> there in 70's had certain weird .... hmmm... proclivities...
No fair teasing. At least tell us if it was animal, vegetable, or mineral.
~15 page typed, on a typewriter... obviously given the age... about how he likes to be dominated by a mistress, have to admit I read a few of the pages, this guy was whacked out... step by step how to tie him up, I stoped at that part, complete with hand drawn diagrams, and some B/W photos of him, thankfully clothed at least the two I saw...yet still disturbing
My buddy found it, I was loading the truck and he came out and said "you ain't gonna believe this ####"
that was the sick stuff...
a few collection notices and other mail.
Larryville was know for some very "notorious" characters over the years.
You might have some valuable material for collectors.
to late already in the dump.
what do you know about our "notorious" characters though, I've never heard anything.
This is a good question. Best way I've found is to plumb the wall and fix it there with braces at the end...one is usually all it takes. Adhesive and screw a plywood skin to at least one side of the wall including the bottom plate. The plywood skin can be 1/4". What you're making is a kind of vertical torsion box, no letting in is needed.
In your case you could probably plumb the wall, adhesive and carefully nail the paneling tight to the framing, making sure you also nail into that well secured bottom plate. EliphIno!
I can't come up with any off the top of my head.
But last month they showed PBS Antique Road Show that they did last year in KC.
Anyway one of the items was a tee shirt that was "autographed" by one of the Larryville characters. A poet or artest or something like that. Because of that connection it was worth a grand or two.