I have a half wall in my foyer that I plan to put a 5/4 x 8″ x 6′ cap on. What is a typical round over radius to use for this sort of thing?
If I paint it to match the trim, is there a recommended final coat of poly or something that would protect the surface?
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Replies
I don't think there is any typical radius...could be anything from an eased edge up to the full thickness of the board. Much depends on the details in the rest of the space. A shadow reveal under the cap is often used....
what do you mean by a shadow reveal? I was thinking I would let it hang over about an inch and put 5/8" cove under it. Say I wanted to ease the edge. Would you use a router for that or just by hand. Sounds like a rookie question here but I've refinished my home on my own. Just like asking for detail questions from folks.
"Say I wanted to ease the edge. Would you use a router for that or just by hand."Since your piece is prominent and needs to look "right", I would use a router. Woodcraft has Whiteside round-over bits in 1/16", 1/8", 5/32", etc. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8063A great router for that kind of work is the Bosch Colt - small, light and easy to manipulate when working on edge, as you must for the end of your 5/4" piece.
BruceT
what do you mean by a shadow reveal?
What I'm used to, is that you raise the finished cap 1/4" with a spacer that is 1/4" smaller than the finished wall under it. That creates a shadow under the wood rail.
Personally, I like to leace spacer and finished rail off until after the drywallers have had their day--just easier. I used to use the "magic marker" dodge for the spacer, but that wants a fine finished cut on the plywood (not in keeping with "oops, where's the stinkin' spacer?!?!?!"). I now prefer a bit of krylon black crinkle paint (so any roughness looks "on purpose."
Now, back to the original question, how big a round over? Well, I like to hold it to no more than 1/3 thickness and no less than 1/4 (or so, to the closest r/o bit in the box, basically). So, for an 8/4 rail, that's either side of a 5/8" r/o bit, in practial numbers. If it's 6/4 stock, that's 1/2" to 3/8", proportionally.
Having played this game before, it can be good to start with a smaller radius, and put a sample in place to look at it. Easier to make a bigger radius r/o than the reverse.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
If you want a bullnose look, use a 1/2" roundover on the top and bottom
You can also use a 3/8" roundover on both sides, set it a little deep, and leave a nice rabbet detail.
I've also used a roman ogee bit on one side, and a roundover on the other.
Make a few samples, play with some router bits, and come up with something you like. There are literally dozens of ways to do this.
An option is to use a slightly thicker board and forego the trim underneith. This allows a sleaker top that generally looks great.
The downside is that the sheetrock edge generally needs to be skimmed tighter to the wood, a sliver of the sheetrock compound is then cut just under the wood top and the small gap is caulked.
Thicker boards also need more help to stay in place with seasonal movements.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
For the top cap board, which is generally used 5/4" or 3/4"?
I like a 5/4" cap. It just looks more solid. I've also used 1-1/2" thick stock. To my eye, 3/4" stock is too thin.
And whenever possible, I use MDF for places like this. It's stable, flat, mills well, paints well, and is fairly inexpensive.
The draw backs are that its heavy, and is very dusty to mill. And you may not need an entire 4' x 8' sheet. But I can find uses for the remainder eventually.
Tools:
I ususally try to pull in details from the rest of the room, ie; window stools, shelving, counters or whatever. The detail pretty much determine the thickness of the piece.
I also agree that you should use a router or the like & not try to do it by hand. If you're going to take the time to do it, make it look as good as you possibly can.
BILL
I used 3/4 with a nice overhang and small decrotive trim under it.
I did round the top edge with a router and a 3/8 bit.
Don't forget to give a nice return on the corners of the overhanging pieces. The 3/4 gave a nice ellegant look. If it was a more rustic room I'd go with thicker stock.
Good luck
~Mike~
Personally I prefer a 45 degree chamfer over a round edge. But mirror the other trim details adjacent to this cap like others have said.
If this is a convenient place to set keys and other items in the foyer when you come in....make it out of hardwood. A softwood (pine, poplar, etc... ) will get dinged and gouged up in a hurry.
Ithaca, NY "10 square miles, surrounded by reality"
Yep it is a place where stuff will be set down. keys etc. I am most likely going to paint it though. What kind of hardwood would you use?
Near me (upstate NY), the cheapest would be red oak.
Note that not all "Hardwood" is hard (like poplar).
You can check out relative hardness of species if you like: http://www.hardwooddirect.com/hardwood_flooring/hardwood_flooring_Hardness_Scale.asp
but don't go crazy...
I just don't recommented getting a cheap white pine board, because you can make a big groove in it with just the pressure of your fingernail...and you won't be happy looking at that once your project's finished. The oak will cost you 3X more though.
best of luck.Ithaca, NY "10 square miles, surrounded by reality"
Such a shame to paint the oak though. The surrounding trim is all painted though. Thought the oak would stand out a bit too much. I'll get it and decide once I have it all milled if it looks good.How much of a 45 degree chamfer do you do? I know its personal preference but just gathering some ideas from people.
1/8" to 1/4" chamfer, your milage may vary....
Try it on scrap and see if you like it. You're the only one you need to please.
I think it's a shame to paint any wood, but sometimes it's necessary. You could always build up 2 layers of 3/4 birch vineer plywood, edgeband it with adhesive wood edging, and paint that. Then you wouldn't be wasting that oak!
Ithaca, NY "10 square miles, surrounded by reality"
Maybe I will stain the oak. I'll have to see. Stain and a few coats of poly?
Sure, stain and poly. If you're going to do that...you might want to pick a wood species that fits the furniture in the area (maple, cherry, whatever...)
Of course, you can overthink anything. The most important thing is to do it. Have fun.Ithaca, NY "10 square miles, surrounded by reality"
I agree with the above poster. I prefer 45 degree chamfer and generally install beaded casing inverted below the cap.
However, its important to match rest of the house, style, etc. and much of the decision is personal taste