Can someone direct me to a site where I can located handles for hand saws? Broke two durring our recent move, and can’t find any of my tool catalogs. Thanks.
Dave
Can someone direct me to a site where I can located handles for hand saws? Broke two durring our recent move, and can’t find any of my tool catalogs. Thanks.
Dave
Upgrading the footings and columns that support a girder beam is an opportunity to level out the floor above.
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Replies
Dave,
If I were you I'd make my own. Most of the modern saws-read sold in the last 30 years, have or in your case had, handles that are just blister raisers anyhow. Find a pattern from an older saw that you like (and that fits your hand) and make your own. Use something nice for the handle such as curly maple/cherry or even an exotic such as bubinga or lacewood. A handle doesn't use very much wood so cost isn't much of an issue. Just cut it out with a jigsaw/band saw or coping saw and roundover the hard edges with a router or file so that it is comfortable . You can cut the groove for the blade on the bandsaw or with a backsaw. Drill your holes for the screws, sand it nicely, oil it and you're done. You will have something far nicer than anything you could buy assuming you can find a replacement. I haven't seen any sources for a replacement as there are a lot of different patterns regarding shape and hole placement for the screws. Give it a try.
Mark
I've bought kinked saws with good handles at flea markets for under 5 bucks. That's a whole bunch cheaper than I could make one...I've gotten handplane handles that way, too...and parts for some of my other junk<G> EliphIno!
Thanks, I believe I'll take the profs' advice and make my own. I am not much on flea markets or yard sales, but have a few buddies checking those sources for me already. One even has a paper template of the hole pattern folded in his wallet. Been three months now,and he goes every weekend, no luck yet.
Dave
For patterns, an old saw works well, or use/modify the ones in the back of Aldren Watsen's book, HAND TOOLS (dovetail/backsaw, panel saw, etc.). 13/16" cherry worked well for me - use 7/8" in you have really big hands and 3/4" if smaller. The blade slot can be cut with a decent back saw, though removing some set with an india stone will help here. For a tight fit, go for a backsaw kerf of about .006 over the blade thickness in the handle area. Work the contours with rasp, scraper, and some sandpaper. A router roundover approach works for some folks, but a true oval-shaped grip is much nicer.
If you want to do a thumbhole handle, try to find an original to copy - the contouring is pretty critical for a good fit.
Holes for new saw nuts can be cut with a sharp HHS bit or in a pinch, a dull bit and lots of pressure.
I think another company bought sandvic(sp?) bunch of letters and numbers now. Their card scrapers go under a different name now
Handles can be found on ebay too.
Handles, if you find a new one, will be more expensive than a moderately priced new handsaw. Likewise for the cost of retoothing and sharpening an old saw...locally it is $25............and right on the shelf is a nice 8pt Sandvick for $18. I just hated to retire my 50+year old Disston. But I Did!!!
Modern economics....disposable goods concept...............I'm I next ??>?!!!!!
...............................Iron Helix
IH, I din't know that one can still purchase a Sandvik. Being Scandinavian, my two Sandviks (About 20-25 yrs old) are two of my most cherished posessions. All the saws I see these days are crap and I would be embarassed to use one.
I would ask you where I can purchase one but I see I would have to make a road trip out to see you! Is there a distributor web site that lists retailers?
Thanks,
Eric
Eric,
I bought a Sandvik 7 tpi crosscut through mail order from Highland Hardware a few months ago. (Around $40) They had a batch of them in their retail store in Atlanta when I visited there last summer; I was going to order one, when I got back home, from the catalog, but they weren't listed. (Would have bought it at the store, but was flying back home and it wouldn't fit in my suitcase.) I just called the mail order number and they pulled one from the retail store stock and shipped it to me. They are good people to deal with; they may have some of those left in stock. They are on the net. GP
I purchased my Sandvik at a local Menonite Saw Shop.........on the cardboard scabbard I see Sandvik Saws and Tools Inc. P.O.Box 2036, Scranton, Pa. 18501.
Mr. Martin at the saw shop is from Pennsylvannia....he really likes the Sandvik also!
Try a web search engine on the above info......................Iron Helix
Dave:
post or e-mail me the saw hole pattern with dimensions and original saw number, if I have a spare handle, I'll send it to you as a Christmas gift (will get there late I'm sure). Literally have scores of old saws, bought most for 50 cents or $1 at garage sales over the last few decades, primarily for the Logo screw !
The 'make your own suggestion' is, however, the best, even beats out a free handle, you will always get comfort from having made the handle when you use the saw.
BTW, favorite old saw is a Disston# 196 Docking saw, boy does that cut!
Thanks for the offer. I think I'll try making my own, as the prof suggested. I have hickory, red oak, ash, and some hackberry slabs in the shop, so I can practice untill I get one right.