Hi,
I need to install an additional handrail into a Philadelphia row home for a partially disabled person. How do I install the handrail into a wall that is plaster and brick? This wall separates the two houses and is shared by them. Some people call it a firewall. I do not know the thickness of the wall. I am 95 percent sure that it is made up of brick and plaster only, no lath or furring strips beneath it. What kind of fasteners would securely hold the handrail to that kind of wall? The handrail would be on your left as you go up the stair and the existing regular stair rail is on your right. Do I need some kind of expansion type anchoring system? Can I get this stuff at a local Lowes or Home Depot? Thanks for any replys in advance!
Replies
in my experience the easiest way to do it is to screw a timber board to the wall all the way up the stairs along where the handrail will go. fix this with screws and rawlplugs( don't know what they are called in the US)
then you can fix the hand rail to the board with no problems.
I like a backing board to mount to. If the plaster coat is sound, just use PL Premium and a couple nails to tack it while it sets.
If the surface is uncertain then use molys, wedgebolts, Tapcons or whatever suits to anchor it. If it is an ugly fastener, be sure to plan and place it where it will be hidden by the handrail hardware.
Once it is secured, you can mount the handrail normally.
But something that is critical for you - will this disabled person be able to negotiate this stair?
Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks for replying to my question. What is PL Premium?
A polyurethene construction adhesive that will practically weld most materials together.
But I like calvin's idea above. I have not seen this item before but Ives makes great hardware if you can find it locally. May not be a stock big box item..
Excellence is its own reward!
Here is a link to a company that makes the hand rail brackets. I would not rely upon gluing to the plaster. If the glue fails (not likely) or the plaster bond (between the plaster coats or the plaster and brick) fails (likely) someone could get injured. Hand rails should have the same strength as grab bars in a toilet or shower (I think that the the code requires those items to support 150#).
http://www.juliusblum.com/prodsec06.html
Thanks. I'm thinking of going with the wedge bolts to fasten the wood to the wall and then using those Ives handrail brackets that Calvin suggested. Or just going with the Ives brackets and no wood. Haven't decided. yet. Yes I'm a little leary of just using adhesive for the wood to wall interface.
Neither would I rely on adhesive all alone. I hide the fasteners under plugs or the hardware..
Excellence is its own reward!
One other question. After fastening the wood to the wall with the Tapcons and adhesive, is it safe to simply rely on those wood screws that hold the handrail bracket to the wood for strength? I have not yet decided on what kind of wood- I might use a long length of 3/4" thick poplar or clear pine or maybe even plywood. The screws that come with a bracket (made by Stanley) that I saw in Home Depot are about an inch and a quarter long (flat head), so part of that screw will be going into the plaster and brick (not sure if that's gonna be tough or I should get shorter ones). I will most likley use 4 brackets to hold the handrail and there are 3 of those screws per bracket. Thanks.
Holding power is a function of the amount of wood displaced by the screw and the size of the threads.
Adding that extra bracket adds to the strength too, but if you have to replace the screws with shorter ones, look for coarse threads and a size larger shank..
Excellence is its own reward!
pizza,
just installed a handrail in the same substrate. Used an Ives cast aluminum commercial bracket. I didn't pay any 20 bucks a piece as was the price on these from an internet hardware. Course, they were dusty and a good supplier friend supplied them to me. What I liked about them, I needed no board mounted to hang them from and there was only one mounting point, so the closer together 3 hole pattern didn't blow out the plaster or brick. I used a screw and plastic anchor rather than the lag and shield. There are two models, one has a smaller hole than the other. I used the smaller holed model, fit the #14 screw better. These were in the US 28 finish ( a dull silver in color). It was listed as a 158 rather than the 159 shown below. Bracket looks the same as shown, no lag or shield, they include a large winged molly in the pkg. Holds a good sized rail well. If it's not to commercial looking for you.
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
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