I have attached a drawing of a hand rail return. This is for the wall side (no posts) of the stairs. My basic question is “what is the standard practice?”.
The drawing is taken from an idea in a stair part catalog. The hand rail is mitered back to level and then four 22.5 degree miters back to the wall.
Do you generally bring the return back to level?
Do you miter two 45 degree returns or four 22.5 degrees cuts?
Thanks.
F1
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Replies
On a normal trim job I would just use a 45 degree cut for a return...not too crazy about your picture cause it seems a bit overworked IMO
I like to use a round cross-section to avoid that detail
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
IMO, the drawing looks like a more contemporary solution. So yes, I would return it level and use 45 degrees to get to the wall and use whateve angle required to level the return.
"It is what it is."
I just 45 back into the wall. I kinda like your drawing though. Have you build that yet, and if so what about durability? I could really imagine kids having a field day on that thing and ripping it right off.
If the time and money is in the job to do it the way you have drawn then it is my preferred method. If short on time and money then a simple 45 and return piece.
I like the return to level piece to be longer however if the space is available.
I use the same technique when wrapping a center wall at the landing.
View Image
this is an old picture, not sure exactly how I did this one, since its not a true round. Glued, screwed, and plugged, 'tho, I remember that! I'm guessing it was close enough to round that I was able to "cheat" it to avoid the detail as you drew it.
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Edited 5/18/2008 4:15 pm by Huck
I appreciate your comments. I have done another drawing and hope it is a better representation of the actual parts.
The handrail runs the entire left side of the stairs. The guard rail on the right stops halfway up where the stairs are completely enclosed instead of one open side.
Edited 5/18/2008 11:36 pm by Faulted1
Edited 5/18/2008 11:38 pm by Faulted1
DrawingView Image
Edited 5/18/2008 11:41 pm by Faulted1
You don't need to miter it back to level before returning, if all you're doing is returning to the wall. When it becomes necessary is at a landing where it levels out around the bend, then angles back down the other side. In that case, you have to level out first, before you can return around the bend - as your drawing shows.
If you're dying into the wall, its more common, and more logical, to just return into the wall on the same plane as the steps - whether its a 90 degree return, or two 45's.View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Thanks Huck. What I needed to know.
Perhaps, but that is a matter of opinion and when it comes to commercial work here code. My inspectors here rule that it has to return to level in commercial before returning to the wall, a rule based on the fact the rail has to extend beyond the first rise and still be at the minimum height.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
the rail has to extend beyond the first rise and still be at the minimum height.
OK, I think I get it - so this would be on the lower (starting) level, but not the upper, or a landing?
And yes, I was referring to residential. View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
View Image incorrect
View Image correctView Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
View Image incorrect but interesting neverthelessView Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Not sure when folk say they 45 back to the wall if they mean two 45's so the rail 90's to the wall, or if they mean 45 true...so the cut on the wall is a 45. The latter is how I've done it for quite a while now, mainly due to a few building inspectors having issue with a 90 being a catch...purse straps, baggy pockets, etc. To return the rail to level, to me, looks clunky.
my .02
Bing
I prefer them to level off, but that's just me.
Here's my Jatoba railing.
View Image
“The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.” —Albert Einstein
very nice!
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Thanks,
noticed the brass nipple & cap? Damn plumbers always have to add something ;-)
“The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.” —Albert Einstein
I missed that . Did you custom make the wall brackets or did you add on to an off the shelf bracket?
Either way that is a nice touch. While I may join in the jokes about plumbers from time to time I have a great deal of admiration for some of the work I have seen them do under much less than magic circumstances.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Semi custom.
The plate was cast brass, some sort of standoff bracket for monstor thermostatic mixing valve I used on a job.
& the pipe is sch 40 brass that I polished on my drill press.
View Image
“The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.” —Albert Einstein
Creative and talented you are!
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Faulted,
Been a while so don't take it as the gospil,
On commercial in most places you must return to level. Not so much residential.
I personally think it makes a better job IF you have the room!
If it's my own job? NO MITRES, Nope, none not a one.
I use 1/4 turns to present as round a corner as I can. Takes a little work, but next time you do one, look at where a wall rail falls height wise.
Ever wonder how many 4 y/o's have gotten dinged in the head by that sharp a$$ corner since we started returning rails to the wall????????
Once explained, I never had a customer argue the additional cost. Which by the way, isn't a whole lot more than what it costs in labor to make all those cuts and then stick them together
I was wondering when someone would suggest a "milled" quarter turn. Appreciate your thoughts. Appears to be more than one acceptable solution.