We are a GC doing custom homes, remodel and handyman, divided into three divisions. I’d be very interested in comparing notes with other people running professional handyman operations (franchise, independent, etc.). We try to operate at the top end of the scale, charging substantially more than the typical guy with a pick-up and a ladder. We provide a lot of extras, and I’d be interested in strategies others have used to help differentiate themselves from the “handyman” stereotype.
We have firm scheduling, skilled (and well-paid) lead carpenters (we don’t sub much on a handyman job), uniforms, company trucks, etc, but always looking for other things we could be doing to offer the best.
We’re in SW Michigan, and have a good mix of downtown, suburban, rural, wide spectrum of economics.
What have you done that works?
Replies
I'd recommend tracking down Sonny Lykos and emailing him ....
he does exactly that.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Sonny sure could be considered "High end". I think he is able to charge more than my dentist<g>.
Regarding HandyMan Services:
I've been doing the Handyman stuff for about 4 years now, pretty much part time (I'm a stay at home Dad) and taking and leaving what I want, and working around my family's schedule. I'm in Illinois, North of Chicago.
I cannot find any Illinois State laws that say handymen (or even contractors!) must be licensed. If you're a barber or nail technician (finger, not 16d), you need a license, but it's not needed, except for certain trades, like roofing. Many local jurisdictions require plumbing and electrician licenses for their locale, but I'm sure even "legit" (and I use that word loosely) contractors many times don't bother to get licenses for their work locations.
I think one of my best assets, and one customers really appreciate, is when I know a job is too much for me. I tell them up front, and they are very happy. They then proceed to find me a bunch of little jobs that are within my realm.
I had one customer who had part of her house rebuilt after a fire. Big Job. After it was "finished" she tried for several months to get the contractor out to hook up the icemaker. (Need a plumbing license and permit to hook up an ice maker? who cares?) Needless to say, the contractor couldn't be bothered with something so small. So she called me.
Then I had to check her dryer, hang some blinds, mount some speakers, and odd jobs like that that hubby couldn't do because he travelled a lot, and just didn't want to.
All my work so far has been word-of-mouth. My business is a sole-proprietorship, and I work alone. I have $1 million liability policy (which keeps going up like the rest of yours), and I treat it all like a business for tax purposes. As my son gets older, goes to school, and frees up my time, I plan on doing more work.
About the biggest jobs I've done is a kitchen and a bathroom. Nothing major. Gut it, set tile, hang cabinets, hook up toilet, sink, etc. Replace light swithches and fixtures. The way I figure it, if you can hook up something in the box, which is the important part, you should be able to bend conduit, and have enough sense to use an anti-short bushing with BX.
Here's a pic I took of one job I was working on. This was in a unit in downtown Chicago, close to a million $$ place. I had to remove the gas fireplace, and this is how the "licensed, certified, bonded, unionized" contractor hooked up a gas valve. Note the use of: duct tape, masking tape, coat hanger, and a scrap of drywall that was notched to fit and jammed in at the bottom. This fool worked awful hard to make it this bad.
And by the way, anybody who would hire any trade around here at $15/hour deserves what they get.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
The plumber must have run out of zip-ties. I agree with you. I guess I too am one of those guys with the truck and ladder. I have similar insurance (at least for now) and think that I know when to hold them and when to fold them. I have two electricians that I can and sometimes do work with but I am not impressed by what I see from most. When the lic elec runs the replacement circuit to the bathroom (the only one) and runs 14ga because that is what he had on the truck I almost tossed lunch. He did put on a15amp cb but the lady had a 1850 watt hair dryer laying there on the counter and a over head fan/light and four bulb light bar. It was my suggestion to provide a new circuit. Thank goodness the HO had wanted him to come and he was not my idea.
Edited 2/12/2004 7:42:40 PM ET by RASCONC
I agree with GEOB21. Plus a few other comments:
Show up when you tell them you'll be there, and if you can't make it or are running late, CALL THEM! I can't tell you how many times I've showed up when I said I would, and the HO was surprised! If you're running late and call, they are ecstatic that you were so thoughtful.
Cleaning up really blows them away. I do like the little gray shop vac from sears, with the strap. Plenty of suction, and it's very portable. I ran a broom one time to get the big stuff up (before I shop vac-ed), and the homeowner couldn't believe I was cleaning up so nicely. And this was BEFORE I cleaned up.
Do quality work, charge a fair price, and the word will spread. I once repaired a washing machine. Now, I'm not an appliance expert, but I've taken mine apart and put it together many times. So it took a while to diagnose, but I said the timer was bad. Cost about $125 in parts. Got the new one days later, put it in, and it still didn't work. Kept troubleshooting. Ends up it was a 30c fuse that blew. So, I took the new timer out and returned it. Didn't charge him for the timer (I did get my 30 cents for the fuse, though!) and didn't charge him for any time for misdiagnosis. He actually CALLED me to thank me for being fair. I bet that don't happen often!
Sure, I didn't make a bundle off him, but I will get it back in spades through recommendations.
The other thing I think is a benefit to me and my business is my quest for knowledge. I read code books that apply to my scope of work, and am knowledgable enough to hold my own against any "licensed professional."
You must be my long lost twin seperated at birth. I sounds like you think just as I do. I get tired of hearing whining from some licensed folks that someone is taking food off their table when they wanted to charge $400 to spend 2 hours to run a circuit thirty feet with maybe $20 in materials. I have to sympathize with them if their reasonable price is cut by two thirds by someone who does not know what he is doing and will vanish into the night.
In NC generally a building project over $30K requires a lic. contractor and/or stamped drawings. Homeowner can do it himself. In our county generally a lic elec can pretty much do anything without a permit that does not require the power co to do anything. For example a new service needs to have insp stamp before power guys will schedule.
In the one city jurisdiction they are alot more complicated. I did a commercial building working with a friend who has elec/plumb/mech/general lic. He supervised and accepted responsibility for a sizeable fee. Inspector was very thorough and complimentary at the results.
I GC'd my 1724 sqft addition and the county chief inspector did a pre-final insp. He had a list of 7 things that needed to be completed, not errors, before final. He said that he usually found about 30 failed items on final for many of the builders.
Sounds like you do much larger scale work than I. i don't do any additions or anything structural. Roofing is just too damned hot and heavy work. I figured that out after doing my flat roof above my screened in porch, maybe 15x22.
I'll replace windows, doors, and like I said in an earlier post, kitchens and baths.
I've had a designer in the near past pay me to hang towel bars, TP holders, and the like. Paid pretty good money, too! I'll hang TP holders all day!
The thing I think my customers like is the one-stop shopping. Sure, I do painting, but I'm not going to paint an entire house. A room or two, OK, but for big jobs, the painters will be much more economical, and get the job done a lot faster. Then I can fix the broken stair spindles, stop the boiler from dripping, fix a storm window, make a new attic window, touch up some furniture dings, caulk a leak, and even trim some trees. Replace a tile, build a radiator cover, heck, anybody who owns a home knows how long the list can be. (the list on my house is infinite. Like the shoemaker's kids going barefoot, I guess.)
Besides, I would get bored too quickly doing the same thing day in, day out. I like the diversity, and there is plenty of problem solving to keep me interested.
And the words I really like to hear: "While you're at it..." I tell my wife those are the most expensive four words in the English language.
I also have different types of customers. One type doesn't mind doing some of the work, but just might not have the skills for tricky stuff they've never done before. They'll do some of the grunt work to save some bucks. The other type has the means to pay people to do the stuff they have no time to or inclination of doing. They like the service, and like to be catered to.
I had one guy in the latter category want me to install a door sweep. It took literally less than 10 minutes to screw it in. But, it was in the city, 35 miles away, parking is a pain, getting through the lobby with tools and up to the unit is a pain. So what do I charge this guy? Since I was already in the neighborhood on another job, I charged him $30. I figure anybody else, like an appliance repairman, would start at $100 to come in the door, so I thought I was very fair. But the "hourly rate" that I got on that job was great, even though I only made about $25 after gas and parking.
There are so many cities interconnected around the Chicagoland area, that it would be nearly impossible to keep all the requirements straight. I can see where a builder with a large project would need to go each village or city where they are working, and get the necessary permits and licenses, but I'm talking small potatoes for my stuff, and I would go broke just chasing around the requirements.
It's not that I try to hide anything. I would be more than happy for any inspector to check my work, and I would stand behind it. I'm just not going to spend years in trade school and apprenticeship just to get my electricians license so I can properly apply for a permit so I can hang a ceiling fan. Ditto plumbing for water heater installation. So I just tell my clients to say they are doing the work themselves, which is permissible if they sign a waiver with the village.
No we are small scale also. The store deal was an old factory building with no ceiling and a section of rotted floor. It had been a tv repair store and was pretty sad. It had post and beam framing and I put in 12 ft ceiling and walled off an office. It was about 110ft long and 12 ft wide with a jog to one side in the back. It has the scuzziest rest room I have ever seen. Tore it out, putting fixtures back in same location with modern connections. Put in new service entrance, elec baseboard heat, all with real supervision by lic elec. Supervision was me confirming with him that the approach I was using was correct and him looking at it before required inspections.
The customer wanted it to look period as she was going for an old country store look. Used plybead for ceiling and wall finish. She wanted the front to be like a front porch so built a dividing wall and sided it with beveled cedar. The store never made it though. Went back and cut through wall to link to adjoining office and put in another dividing wall for tenant.
Mostly do smaller stuff. Redid two bathrooms for a small church. It seems that all my jobs involve a bathroom. I tell people that my life's in the crapper. I think I can set a toilet as good as any plumber and a da*n lot better than some I have seen. I can not believe the number of people who do not take the time to shim up a toilet to get the rock out before putting the wax ring down.
RASCONC-
That got me wondering as to the placement of the wedges before the waxring sealdown. Just a minor technical question.
I like to seal the stool to the ring flush down to the first point-of-level contact with the floor surface and then apply the wedges without any further movement to the stool.
Are you dryfitting the stool down first just to see where the wedging is necessary and then placing the ring or placing the wedges where needed, removing stool, apply ring, then sit the stool down on ring and wedges in one motion.
Inquiring minds just got to know....
I dry fit, shim with various plastic shim material, fortunately most applications I have worked with are not off enough to use the neat ridged plastic levelers. I usually put a dab of White Lightning advesive caulk to hold it in place. I allow the material to stick out past the bottom so I can put a couple of pencil witness marks to tell if it shifts. Trim off excess after bolting down.
I put the wax ring on floor flange, not toilet as instructions usually say. I also use the rings with the foam ring buried in the wax. Set the toilet pressing down and a little wiggle followed by the "sit on it final adjustment" then bolt down. Never had a call back. I use scraps of the deraded vunyl siding and shower surround material mostly. Have used pieces cut from plastic jugs at times.
I find that if you try to shim after or while the ring is down you can create a void. Unless using the supposedly resilient foam core rings there is no rebound to wax and if it rocks while trying to shim it may not conform.
Edited 2/13/2004 1:54:05 PM ET by RASCONC
biggest thing (other than workmanship) is clean up
i always always leave the job site cleaner than when i arrived
doesnt take long, maybe 15 minutes but makes a great impression
second big thing?
be organized, have a tool box for each trade, ie an electrical box, plumbing box, tile box etc etc, it'll make your job easier too, so what if each box has a red robbie screwdriver in itcaulking is not a piece of trim
I was a "handy-mam" for about 4 years...had all the work I could get. I found that there are 3 things I could do that would just make clients exstatic....Call back/if late.....wipe my feet 3 times at the door, and clean up after myself. It was amazing...I could have done the crummiest job imaginable, but those 3 things were what sold people....I did some very good work, and called in help when needed, but just by being clean I was successful. Hmmmm.....Beck
When I first started in the trade back in '88 my foreman insisted on us spending the last 1/2hr of the day cleaning up and putting everything away, which I never understood since we would be back the next day to make the place a mess again......but, 16yrs later (and a whole bunch of jobs done on my own) I realize that one of the biggest, if not the biggest, reason why HO are impressed with our work is that we clean up as we go and at the end of the day...every day. Its the attention to little details, and the thought that the tradesperson cares and respects the homeowner's space that endears us.....
I have to admit, being organized is a constant struggle. If I were an electrician, I would only have electrician tools. Ditto plumber, etc. I have been racking my brain for a "system" to keep everything organized and easily accessible throughout my jobs. Portability is one factor, easy to put the stuff away when I'm done is another.
I have an electrical box, 2 plumbing boxes, a "general" tool kit with screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches, sockets, hex keys, flashlight, tape measure, duct tape, WD-40, utility knife, couple of shims, gorilla glue, safety glasses, and pencil that I carry to each job regardless of the trade. Then there is the carpentry stuff (rough and finish), the cleanup kit with shop vac & contractor bags, drywall kit, painting kit, tiling kit. It's a lot of different kits, and just about all of them would be used on something like a small bathroom job.
I guess the method I use right now works until I get a better idea. Basically all I do is plan the next day's activities, make a list of what I'm going to do, and make a list of all the tools and materials I'll need, and start filling the Rubbermaid bin.
I've tried 5 gallon buckets, bucket bosses, soft tool bags, hard tool boxes, and big Rubbermaid containers (which get heavy quickly, and the tool I need always settles to the bottom.)
Been trying to design large wooden toolboxes, similar to what the old time carpenters used. What I envision is 2 large boxes, with compartments for all my different trade boxes, being able to take out electrical when I'm done with that and replace it with plumbing. These larger boxes would be stackable and nesting, and fit on a Rubbermaid dolly cart that I bought for jobs in the city hi-rises.
Anybody have a system that works for them? I'd be happy to hear any input.
95% of my jobs are handyman jobs with an occasional small remodel thrown in. I use a 2000 long bed Sonoma pick up. After trying different set-ups I’ve finally found what works best.
One gallon containers containing 20 minute and 45 minute Easy Sand. A tool box on the left next to the tail gate with main hand tools. Right side a tool box with a Dewalt $100 drill/drive battery operated with often used screws and anchors in it. Also my Porter Cable battery 19.2 hammer drill and box with bits of all types. Next to that are two containers with plastic boxes with nails, screws and anchors and Tapcons.
Middle of the truck: about a 24†wide by 42†long plywood box that's raised with a rolling using under it that contains drywall tools, sanding sponges, and other stuff I frequently use.
Left side of under that cap contains three tool boxes with various elec. and battery operated tools including a 1 gal. shop vac. Right side of the center set up contains another tool box with painting stuff and 1 gallon containers besides the Easy Sand powdered mud. Against the back of the bed behind that raised and under set up are drop clothes and a collapsible cart.
That leaves about a 24†wide by about a 24†deep emplty area against the tail gate which is used for purchased stuff, table saw, chop saw, etc. when needed. Yet I can still get 4x8 sheets of flat stock in it when needed.
From the ceiling of the inside of the cap I made two aluminum trays about 12†by about 48’†long that contains other stock items.
The roof rack has a 3rd rail rack for ladders so a 3’ and two plastic horses rest on the 6’ and 4’ ladder butted to each other while on the other side of the rack is the 20’ ext. ladder.
Everything else, including three plumbing tool boxes are in my garage along with my paint HVLP and reg. sprayer and other stuff like chop saws an bench table saw, which I load up when needed.
Just installed a 400 watt "inverter" under my glove box to recharge batteries from the various battery operated tools which includes three drills, circ saw, recip saw, vac, saber saw, 8" compound miter saw, and Oh yea, my Paslode Impulse trim nailer.
As others here have mentined, the key is to get organized but more important, to stay organized instead of just throwing tools and "stuff" back into the truck. I know I have gotten jobs from neighbors just from their comments about how neat and organized the truck is adn how clean I keep it outside as well.
How about a picture of that 2000 Sonoma setup?
I'll take a few photos tomorrow and post them tomorrow night.
My apologies. Got to busy today. Will try again tomorrow. I'm fighting to keep my weekly hours down to about 24 maximum, but it's a son-of-a-gun.
Here's the photos.
Sonny,
Do you have any suspension modifications on your Sonoma?
It seems like you have a lot of weight, but from the pics it looks like your truck doesn't complain.
Jon Blakemore
When I bought it, it came set up for towing, which I think included a beefed up suspension and I had coil springs installed. The kind that wrap around the shocks. It sits almost perfectly level. It also has a slightly beefed up rear end ratio. I felt like I was 16 again when I first got it and left about 40 -50 feet of rubber when I nailed it - a few times. Hey, I had to get it out of me. Works fine and I get between 16 and 19 mpg on it's V6 with automatic trans.
Three complaints about it after about 62,000 on it:
1. Just developed a very small trans rear seal leak. Hoping trans stop leak will cure it.
2. Just dropped $992 for a new AC compressor and dryer/filter canister.
3. The lever that adjusts the back of the drivers seat is attached to a shaft made of pot metal. It broke and the dealer wants about $250 to replace it. I didn't know anyone still used pot metal.
wow ..
when will U young kids realize a van is the only way to go?
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
when will U young kids realize a van is the only way to go?
To this day I can't understand why people get pick ups other than to look cool.lol.
Kinda like Neil Young with his dog in the back.
Be a dog named "stain" (don't ask)
andy
have to agree on the van idea, much better than a pick up, i can carry ALL my tools except the table saw and chop saw on shelves and still leave space for 4x8 sheets of anything standing up or flat over the saws
but i dont get 17 mpg, but then i dont have to do as many trips to suppliers either
of course it doesnt look very cool to say the least, and peel rubber for 50 feet? hahaha
my fiance calls the tallest ugliest limosinecaulking is not a piece of trim
my van has 41000 miles on it and is almost ten years old....
Be close to home
andyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
hey my gmc 1 ton has almost 400000 km about 24000 miles and still goes strong carrying 4000 lbs of tools and materials
passes etest(emissions) and a safety check
and i drive 150 km a day at least
its not pretty but it works
i'll post a couple of pics later
sorry edit thats 240,000 miles
caulking is not a piece of trim
Edited 2/28/2004 9:41:01 AM ET by steve
mines maroon as is my house and memo books and my face at times........
The outside is sure prettier than the inside.dont ask
a
My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
PS..........and don't tell me the J in Jeff J. Buck stands for Jeff
uh ...
the first one does?
Jeff ....J .......Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Jeff Jerry? Jeff the Jokester?
I still like Jeff Jeff Buck Knife.actually if I had a son I woulda called him Cliff.
See you in august
andy
"My life is my work"
I was sort of hoping that one of the posts would have touched on billing and income a bit more. What is a good day/week - 4 on-site, billed hours per day at "X" per hour - 2 jobs per day - one big job every day ?
I have thought about the handyman gig before, but just couldn't see how one could make a comfortable living at it. Either I'm too greedy, underestimating what one could charge, or missing something.
Also, I would think that if you'd work a job like that "second shift" you'd get a lot of business from people that can't meet you at home during the day. . .(unless you are in an area with lots of retirees or stay at home parents)
It really depends on your location. There is some good reading at hometech costestimator site about handyman work and why you should charge more than you probably think. One of the analogies they use regarding billing is an auto mechanic. If you carry insurance and are proffesional and reliable, there is no reason to charge less than a contractor. I live on Cape Cod so the rates are sky high. I ended up getting my construction supervisor's license a few years back and I probably made more money with less headaches when I was a "handy man". Like a lawyer, don't forget to include office work,phonecalls, etc in your hourly calculations. For example, if you want to take home $30 per hour, you probably need to charge at least $50/ hour, unless you want to pay for your work truck, cell phone, new tools, advertising, insurance, etc out of your salary.
I havent read Sonny`s stuff in a long time but send him an email.
I have rentals and do other work . [plus taking on another big job duty] Organization is one of the biggest keys or answers to your question of how profitable you can be .
The other deal is the prices are not figgured as the customer expects.
Tim Mooney
for "handyman" services i charge $26 an hour plus a small markup on materials(25%)
the clock starts the minute i leave home, so includes time getting materials
also you should make it very clear what will and wont do, i wont touch gas or electrical work, but have licensed contacts who will
dont forget to "markup" your subs fees
caulking is not a piece of trim
I started doing handyman work last year at $80/hr, no free on-site estimates. In the first week I had two ladies freak-out when I presented the bill-- said they thought I said $8.00 on the phone. Rate changed that day to $85/hr!
A month later I heard from a friend in St Louis that $75-$85 was the going rate there, so I started charging new customers $100/hr (NYC).
Some of the things that work for me--
When a prospect is put off by my rate or my no free estimate policy I never defend or explain, I cheerfully refer them to local sources of handyman listings such as Craig's List or free neighborhood papers to help them find someone who charges less.
I accept major credit cards (Paypal). It protects me and the customer.
I always put paper booties over my shoes before entering.
Customers love it when I break open new packs of drop cloths; I get them cheap in bulk over the web.
T
hey those rates are not out of line , it depends where you are
hire an electrical0contractor in manhatten to install a couple of ceiling fans and see whaat happens
it all depends on the overhead costs
30 an hour to park? no problem, pay me upfront
caulking is not a piece of trim
Pete just finished reading your post and might have an answer to your problem. In the March 2001 No. 137 issue of FHB, in the tips & techniques (pg 32) thereis an article on stackable tool boxes. I haven't tried them YET but am planning on it soon. Good luck. Wormdrive
Thanks for the tip on the nesting toolboxes, Mr. Worm. I'll definitely look it up.
Regarding the van idea. I would love a bread truck (saw one for $2600 a few years back) to carry all my stuff in, and just keep it there, but, since I don't do it full time, and I use tools at home, and use my truck for my own life outside of work, I have to load and unload. Plus the wife, and the bylaws in our neighborhood association prohibit the van idea. Wife thinks it's too ugly, and since it won't fit in my garage, the neighborhood assoc. would prevent it.
I agree the van is the way to go, but I'm looking for portable storage, light enough to load/unload, but big enough to carry everything I own, and then some. Of course, an automatic organization option would be a good thing too. Just toss the tool in the bin, and it finds it's rightful place. I can dream, can't I?
Maybe I'll hire a 6 year old kid, pay him in ice cream, and all he has to do hand me tools and put them back.Pete Duffy, Handyman
I have several of the riggers bags (available from Harbor Freight). These don't have the PITA zipper openings like some bags, so you can really pile stuff into them, and they have plenty of different-size pockets around the outside. One is for general stuff, one for electrical/plumbing tools, one for drywall stuff and anything else that doesn't fit in the first two.
I also have a 5g bucket with four parachute bags of nails and screws, so I never have to waste time looking for the right nail (or use the wrong one) on a small job. Also in the bucket are 4 small bar clamps, an extension cord, and a few other odds and ends.
Thanks for the tip. I have sort of the same system, with tool bags of different configurations, bucket organizers and such. So far it's about the best I've come up with.
I just hate the "Misc" bag, which ends up being a catch-all.
I guess one thing I have to get is more self discipline.
Have a good one.Pete Duffy, Handyman
Love that kind of work. "Union Plumber" I just got done a job where there was a "Union Plumber" Not that I have a problem with Unions but can you say HACK. 4 out of 6 sinks leaked, drain cap in floor drain crooked and horrible exaust pipe work from HWH. My 10 year old daughter could have done better.Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing! Holmes Sr. Oliver Wendell
I also do alot of handyman type jobs and the 2 pieces of advice I'd give anyone in the buisness is
1]be fair with your customers. Charge them $90.00 to flip a tripped breaker and they'll probably never call you again.
2] leave it cleaner then when you got there. If you touch a window...clean it, Sears makes a nice little wet/dry shop vac with carry strap. Wear those goofy little booties instead of taking off the shoes, no one wants your stinky feet exposed....you'd be amazed.
I think I made a mistake advertising myself as a handyman in out local regional "Free" paper. It got me littler jobs even though I want to stretch my wings a little more, but worse, it made people think I'm stupid and don't know how to make a profit.
I do a lot of everything, until I need specialized help. I won't roof, will do minor electrical repairs until we need to go into the box or run armoured cable, and minor plumbing work. My main joy is carpentry, especially trim work, but I'm not fast enough to specialize.
I try and cooperate with the trades rather than fight them. But, I have a reputation here of finishing the work a lot of other "professional" leave undone.
Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the Handyman
Vancouver, Canada
OMG yours is even uglier than "the bear"s.
My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Nearly all of my 31 years I used a Dodge Maxivan, set up as a rolling workshop. Would not have anything else.
But at 120 pounds and 5’7â€, and semi-retired, I no longer care to drive a huge box, or climb around in it. My old vans had brackets on it’s sides for ladders so I didn’t have to climb up to access them. Detailed shelving on one side for tools and on the other was inventory. Had a 2x12 bench shelf for a grinder as well with a receptacle on it’s exterior to access a home’s elec.
The other reason for a small pickup as opposed to a full size one is bed height. I can reach thru a cap window into the center of what’s inside the bed, and easily access the ladders. Granted if I were strictly a remodeler, my setup would not work - would have to go back to the Maxivan. I could never understand how remodelers could use full size pickups since my van allowed me to put plywood or drywall flat on the floor, or in a punch standing up on an angle.
Anyway, I can still get flat stock or doors in the Sonoma - not more than what would take up about 2†between my left side tool box and the hanging trays and lights. And the lights are installed with Velcro so I can remove them when necessary or to change batteries. Otherwise, it’s on the roof.
I also pampered myself and had after market cruise, power windows and power door locks installed along with the alarm which also protects the three cap windows.
I’m happy, and being a small truck, it’s maneuverability is great.
On another note, Steve, you posted that you charge $26/hr. Call me at 239-793-6609 or my cell. phone at 239-253-3899. Or if you use a Nextel with Direct Connect, “click†me using the number: 158*25*30644. I gotta get you to raise your prices fast and a lot. I just raised mine to $85 while my competitors are still charging between $35 and $65. You’re currently operating at a huge loss, less than wages. I helped another Steve, who a year ago, was charging $25/hr and now employs three other guys and charging at least $65 or more and is busier than hell.
You know, Sonny, that after reading your threads, Bob Kovack's, Jerrald and Mike's, I started getting headaches.
You see, I could never figure out how I could pay my mortgage, my credit card and yet still have money left over for taxes. It never worked out. Hell, I did a big reno last year, and after toting everything up, I realized I made NO PROFIT!
I decided to include holiday pay and taxes as part of my charges. I also decided to never NEVER NEVER tell a customer on the telephone what I charge per hour.
I lost some business. Yes I did. There are lots of guys out there for $20.00 per hour, and they are busy.
But, I have a wife, kids and a life. I take a little time to do the job right. I always give out 2 business cards "One for you, one for a friend, if you like my work". I make the same now, but work less. And, if I get a property manager who wants to beat me down, I smile nicely and tell them they can have the work done once, or twice.
Steve, you have to look at making a better living.Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the HandymanVancouver, Canada
Aaron, I'l email you with my home and cell phone numbers. If you ever want to talk to see about tweaking your prices and net profit a little at a time, please don't hesitate to call me.
Man...I didn't even post in this thread and I'm making Aaron's head spin....lol.
Bob
Neither did Jerrald, but I refered to him.
As soon as the contractors get the idea that handypersons are not out to grab their jobs and we have building knowledge, the better for everyone.Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the HandymanVancouver, Canada
ugly? sure but that old beast has made me a pile of money and upkeep/maintenance has been at a minimum
UGLY? good thing it cant read
hey it works great, passes all the tests, doesnt look the greatest, but IT WORKS
and costs me less than 50/month excluding gas
she's beautiful in my eyescaulking is not a piece of trim
hey.....you know what they say about ugly doncha?
Can't believe my gorgous wife hasn't left me yet or my ugly maroon van hasnt broke down.
whatz up wit dat?
Be older n dirt
andy
My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
A woman was shopping at her local supermarket where she selected a half-gallon of 2% milk, a carton of eggs, a quart of orange juice, a head of romaine lettuce, a 2 lb.can of coffee, and a 1 lb. package of bacon.As she was unloading her items on the conveyor belt to check out, a drunk standing behind her watched as she placed the items in front of the cashier.While the cashier was ringing up her purchases, the drunk calmly stated, "You must be single."The woman was a bit startled by this proclamation, but she was equally intrigued by the derelict's intuition, since she was indeed single.She looked at her six items on the belt and saw nothing particularly unusual about her selections that could have tipped off her drunken observer as to her marital status.Curiosity getting the better of her, she said, "Well, you know what, you're absolutely correct. But how on earth did you know that?"The drunk replied. "Cause you're ugly."
hey you know that old beast so far this winter has cost me a water pump, thermostat and a heater core total about 150 bucks plus an afternoon labour on my part
BUT no lease payments, minimal insurance
last years taxdeductable expenses other than fuel was 300 bucks
so...... ugly? sure, but the bottom line is what counts
i look after it pretty carefully so no breakdowns, ie tuneups, alignments etc etc
and its never let me down, always starts first time, runs great, carries a lot of stuff
ok so its not pretty, but it does the job perfectlycaulking is not a piece of trim
how lucky am I........my wifes even prettyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
steve ..
there's hope for the ugly old van ..
here's my '93 ..
was deciding between keping the old or buying new ..
decided I wanted it to run great and look presentable for at least another year ... probably two ... had all the mechanics replaced .. body work ... paint .. etc.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
I kick myself when I think about the 87 Dodge van that my FIL gave us when he decided to retire from the commercial refrigeration business. He figured the only way to quit was to get rid of the van. He was having trouble carrying his tool boxes and equipment, don't know why, he was only 80. I sold it for 2200 while I was building the house after using it to haul many things I did not want to put in the pickup. Sold it to a carp who was loving it. Had no idea that we would be doing the remodeling/repair thing.
A friend of mine bought out a fleet and had a 93 work van, Dodge with ladder rack and storage, etc that he was going to let me have for $500, really kick myself for going out of town and not getting it. I see it about once a month being driven by the carp who paid him $800 for it.
Here is my 91 C-1500 Chev. Rack is out of 5/4 and 2x4 cross pieces. Have a slide out floor out of 5/4 that I can use for work platform. All out of my lumber yard scrap pile. The 285-70x15 Goodrich Sport Truck TA's fill up the wheel well but sure make it hard to get things out of the boxes, especially for 5'5" DW.
Edited 2/28/2004 3:42:25 PM ET by RASCONC
I like the look of your ladder rack, and it looks to be quite useful. I like it so much that I'm thinking about building one for myself.
How are the bottom ends of the verticals held in place?
Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.
I will try to take a couple of pics tomorrow. I have a bedliner and I cut scraps of 2x6pt to fit between the fenderwells and front and rear of bed. They carry the load, I took about a 12" piece of the same material and inserted it vertically under the lip of the rim of the bed and bolted it through the upright. I put two fairly long lags through the uprights into the 2x4 cross bars at an angle with a slight countersink/counterbore so the side rails fit tight. I have hauled a pretty good bit of lumber on it.
The slide out is set up so the two Contico 37" boxes do not slide around. I have slid it back and hauled 16' timbers with no problems. With the weight of the box on it plus the support of the tailgate and about 3 ft ext it is fine. I have set my DW705 on it and used it for a saw station. After I get several projects worth of debris cleaned out I will try to take some pictures of that.
I know there are some really neat metal racks out there but I work with wood. I think my net cost was $5.
Finally got the junk out of truck and shot a couple of pictures. I usually put that rear box in front on right side if using the pullout. If hauling long stock I slide the pullout back so that the front box is no further than the tailgate and put the other box in the bed in front of it. That gives me about 2/3 of bed width available and supports about 11'. Use various techniques to secure load.
well u know some guys will sneer at my old van, some will even laugh
but its well looked after, always starts and costs me next to nothing to run
no payments, low insurance
gets regular oil changes etc etc and at 400,000 km or 240,000 miles it goes and goes and goes
and, the guy who does my maintenance stuff wants it when it dies so he can have the engine/tranny for drag racing, for a thousand buckscaulking is not a piece of trim
Steve ...
I never realized your were north of our border till all this talk of Km ....
Good looking truck ... my racks were off in those pics .. as I had just got it back from the badyman/painter.
They're back up there ...
actually gonna put the set of 2 from the van ... cut down the cross rails .. and clamp them onto the Jeep Cherokee ..
and get a new set of 3 for the van.
Thru my buddy ... I put about $3k into her last year ... mostly completely rebuilt.
Looks and runs as new ...
even got the replacement for that missing front hubcap.
How's that front grille and bumpers paint color look to ya ..
he added that on his own .. called Cast Iron ... I like it.
Beats buying new.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Jeff,
Who did the paint & body work?
Scott
You're in Pgh, right?
I have a buddy that works out his garage in Swissvale ... Brian Laney.
His buddy ... who's mainstay is hand pinstripping dragsters did the lettering.
depending on the job .... Brian will prep and shoot the paint at Maico ...
this time he had an empty shop and shot it in there himself.
U need some work done?
He's very good ... I say fairly cheap ... and very slow!
Hey ... ya can't have all 3, right?
But ... if you have an older Chevy ... no one tunes them with as much love as Brian.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Had a chuckle yesterday thinking about this thread.
was in a Lowes (yes I admit it) in the tool dept. this is 15mi outside Boston Ma
2 guys talking, one says to the other "was talking to a guy who works as a handyman, said he wouldn't work for less than $50/hr." the way he said it was like this was big money.
just smiled to myself bobl Volo, non valeo
Closer to Uniontown. My brother in law bought a van a few weeks ago for his restaurant business and would like to have it repainted along with a large logo on each side.
How about sending me his phone # and I'll pass it on?
Scott
The term "handyman" is vaguely defined in general; some are self-taught, while others have received instruction in various parts of construction and house maintenance. A home handyman may specialize in one or more areas of home repair, such as painting, carpentry, or tiling, while another may possess additional talents, such as plumbing and electrical knowledge. So, I would recommend as a general instructor for home services:
Tips for selecting the finest one include the following:
Define the scope of the project.
Take a look around.
Be wary of con artists.
Get everything down on paper.
Inquire about any warranties.
Look over the work.