Replies

1. 
   Shep | Dec 03, 2007 07:14am | #1

   If the gap on the hinge side is off, it's either the hinge mortices aren't even, the hinges are bent, or the door is heavy enough to pull the hinge away from the top of the jamb.

   For #1, shim and/or re-cut the mortices

   For #2 buy new and/or better hinges.

   for #3, remove a screw from the top hinge. Remove the screw closest to the stop. Run a 2-1/2" or 3" screw into the rough framing. That'll help keep the door from pulling. If you don't like the looks of the new screw, remove ALL the hinge screws, and install the long screw under the hinge.

   If the door is hung properly, the gap on the hinge side should amost automatically be even.

   Another thought- make sure that both the jamb and door are straight. Hold the unhinged door against the jamb. If there's light showing, adjust something. Either shim the jamb straight, or plane the door.

1. 
   mrsludge | Dec 03, 2007 07:46pm | #4

   I'm in need of adjusting our front door, so kinda similar situation.

   I know the mortises are too deep on the jamb. On the order of 1/16" to 1/8" too deep. What are your shim preferences for this situation (your #1)?

   I tweaked this door before, mostly b/c of latch problems, but I'd like to get it completely straightened out, and I know that this is one step I have to include.

1. 
   Shep | Dec 03, 2007 08:04pm | #6

   On interior doors, I usually use the cardboard the hinges are boxed in.

   For exterior doors, I'll sometimes use the cardboard, if the door is reasonably well protected.

   Otherwise, I use something like veneer, the plastic from various lids, or even thin ply.

1. 
   basswood | Dec 03, 2007 09:33pm | #8

   I like using cardboard "drywall shims" and keep a deck of playing cards on hand.

1. 
   Shep | Dec 03, 2007 10:17pm | #9

   Are those drywall shims the cardboard strips for straightening walls?

   I can't seem to find them around here.

2. 
   basswood | Dec 03, 2007 10:34pm | #10

   Yup.They were widely available on the Left Coast ten years ago and have been moving East at about two states per year...showed up here in MN only a couple of years ago...expect them out there sometime in the next five years or so. ;o)You might check a good drywall supply. They are handy for hinge shimming--they are about the width of a hinge mortise and are dense and layered (you can peal them in half or thirds, etc. to get the thickness you want. I cut them to length with metal snips.Another handy use of drywall shims is for preshimming the hinge side of RO's. I snip a bunch of shims the depth of the trimmers - 1/4"...two or 3 short drywall shims per hinge, stapled on with a narrow crown stapler. This is really helpful when the drywall was routed out proud of the trimmers (so normal shims would need rock trimmed back).This may not make sense...I'll take pics sometime.

2. 
   user-223998 | Dec 04, 2007 03:29am | #11

   thanks for the advice, some good points. I'll be using those very soon, i'll let you know how i get on. While were on the subject do you have any particular order you hang a door in, i'm just trying to find a better way.  I start from the hings side, then the top , then  the lock side.

1. 
   Ragnar17 | Dec 04, 2007 03:45am | #12

   One thing I don't think anyone mentioned was the possibility that the hinge leg of your jamb might be out of square with respect to the door opening.

   Make sure you're looking at the reveal on BOTH sides of the door.  If there's contact with the door on one side but not the other, you'll know the jamb is twisted in the opening.

2. 
   Huck | Dec 03, 2007 07:32am | #2

   the door jamb is level but its still not right

   Plumb.  The door jamb is plumb.  If its level, you have a bigger problem.  With solid core doors, the weight will sometimes result in an uneven reveal.  If you are hanging from scratch, you can set your router depth a tiny bit deeper for the top hinge, and split the difference on the middle one.  Or you can use the cardboard from the hinge box for shimming small increments.  Make sure the jamb and casing are nailed up solid, also.  Otherwise, they can move with the weight of the door.

   View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles Greene
   CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com

   
   

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   Edited 12/2/2007 11:33 pm by Huck

1. 
   Shep | Dec 03, 2007 04:25pm | #3

   Plumb.

   I missed that. I'm always annoying people by correcting them on the difference between level/plumb. Even carpenters who should know better.

   Don't get me started on window sill/ window stool. <G>

1. 
   BillHartmann | Dec 03, 2007 07:53pm | #5

   "Don't get me started on window sill/ window stool. <G>"I never remember which is which.But mine with with floors where people talk about level when they realy need it flat..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

3. 
   JDRHI | Dec 03, 2007 08:54pm | #7

   Make sure you are shimming the jamb directly behind the hinges themselves. Even if not plumb, they must be on the same plane.

   And make sure your jamb is square in the opening.

   J. D. Reynolds
   Home Improvements